俄罗斯如何用盛宴作为武器
日期:2023-12-07 10:00

(单词翻译:单击)

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Culture

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文艺版块

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World in a dish

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盘中世界

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Superpower food

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超级大国盛宴

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The knife and fork have been powerful weapons in Russia’s arsenal.

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刀叉一直是俄罗斯军火库中的强大武器0)6g!=ux,8NgjgxP&^w

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Josef Stalin understood the power of feasts.

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约瑟夫·斯大林深知盛宴的力量05xp%U1U@XL_NR0

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His chefs created sumptuous spreads which were designed to intimidate his guests.

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他让厨师们准备了丰盛的宴席,来震慑他的宾客ND@LLw!%Nfzz2&

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Witold Szablowski, a Polish author, suggests that when Stalin hosted Allied leaders for the Yalta conference in 1945, buckets of caviar and Crimean champagne helped him secure territorial concessions in eastern Europe.

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波兰作家维特多·沙博尔夫斯基认为,当斯大林在1945年设宴接待盟军领导人参加雅尔塔会议时,一桶桶的鱼子酱和克里米亚香槟帮助他获得了东欧的领土特许权a[oAV.Bv@f;U@O#dhm|

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Mr Szablowski argues that Soviet and Russian rulers have long fought with knives and forks.

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沙博尔夫斯基认为,苏联和俄罗斯的统治者长期以来一直用刀叉作战*tKR|~8w!+n_%MtFL^

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“What’s Cooking in the Kremlin”, his book, looks at their gastro-diplomacy.

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他的著作《克里姆林宫的餐桌》研究了俄罗斯统治者的美食外交t1)5#D*|Va+D;n5Pj%X

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State dinners reached an apogee under Leonid Brezhnev in the 1970s.

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20世纪70年代,在列昂尼德·勃列日涅夫的领导下,俄罗斯国宴达到了登峰造极的地步MQ+FBG(;9T(CUXGDh

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One chef recalls a roasted pheasant, perched on a pedestal of bread and decked with its own feathers.

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一位厨师回忆曾烤过一整只野鸡,然后把它放置在面包做成的底座上,并插上鸡毛作为装饰A_DtwBQB8[l%G(

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At a meeting with Mikhail Gorbachev in 1986, Richard Nixon was so impressed that he had photos taken of every dish.

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1986年,在与米哈伊尔·戈尔巴乔夫的一次会面中,理查德·尼克松对宴席惊叹不已,并让人把每道菜都拍照留念At_|h)6]YHLC46T

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Margaret Thatcher was known for her picky eating, but even she called for seconds—then thirds, then fourths—of fresh blinis.

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玛格丽特·撒切尔以饮食挑剔而著称,但就连她也吃了一份又一份新鲜布利尼薄饼FM]),sGzAwVk+J

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Ironically, those who presided over these displays could be alienated by their lavishness.

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具有讽刺意味的是,用盛筵招待宾客的主人可能会因其过分奢华而远离这些食物u+OraEw3j+OV;Tvue

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Viktor Belyaev, one of the Kremlin’s longtime chefs, says Brezhnev preferred familiar fare.

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克里姆林宫的资深厨师维克托·别利亚耶夫说,勃列日涅夫更喜欢家常饭菜l5|OKw6;8p[R2lKQMVb.

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When he returned home from banquets, he would ask for fried potatoes with soured milk.

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当他从宴会回到家时,他会要一份炸土豆配酸奶u+s6[3BkgyGlub^!g@

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Mr Szablowski argues that cooks are adept observers of human nature; that may be why lichniks, the personal chefs to Soviet leaders, were part of the KGB.

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沙博尔夫斯基认为,厨师是深谙人性的观察者,这可能就是为什么利奇尼克(苏联领导人的私人厨师)也属于克格勃GTGI-7fH@qGGVA(!q[i

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(Spiridon Putin, Vladimir Putin’s grandfather, catered to Lenin and Stalin and was probably part of the secret police.)

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(斯皮里东·普京,弗拉基米尔·普京的祖父,曾是列宁和斯大林的厨师,也可能是秘密警察的一员8Q9s2kd@B|R;PdGK。)

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The vignettes in this book reveal a different side to political figures and thereby dent the image they cultivate.

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这本书中的小故事揭示了政治人物不同的一面,从而削弱了他们塑造的形象V933PIX6xEvn

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It is hard, for instance, to see Mr Putin in the same way after hearing of his childlike obsession with ice-cream.

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例如,听说普京像小孩子一样对冰淇淋无比痴迷后,就很难再用以前的眼光看待他|vu6Xvp]e~(&YE1k5

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“What’s Cooking in the Kremlin” also chronicles how food has shaped ordinary people’s lives.

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《克里姆林宫的餐桌》还记录了食物如何塑造普通人的生活|dn,@^W*jhjG

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Mr Szablowski speaks to women who worked in canteens in Chernobyl’s exclusion zone and gave chocolate to soldiers afflicted by radiation poisoning.

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沙博尔夫斯基采访了在切尔诺贝利隔离区食堂工作的妇女,她们给遭受辐射中毒的士兵送去巧克力g]olPUKH)rvV6)Vp-|l8

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More recently, during the siege of the Azovstal steel plant in eastern Ukraine, a woman called Natalya spent weeks feeding the fighters in underground tunnels.

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更近一些时候,在乌克兰东部亚速钢铁厂被包围期间,一位名叫娜塔莉亚的女子连续几个星期在地下隧道为士兵送去食物k)6;Xof|^0dX

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Each tale in the book is accompanied by a recipe.

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书中的每个故事都附有一份食谱ys0.[.qlVvbxV7

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Here Natalya calls for one or two cans of Spam, cooked in 30 litres of water collected from the plant’s industrial tanks.

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在这个故事中,娜塔莉亚用一两罐午餐肉罐头,从工厂的工业水箱里收集30升水,然后把罐头煮熟;dNi4Sf!;uY@E

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The darkest section of the book covers the famine of 1932-33, when Stalin destroyed Ukrainian agriculture, causing millions of deaths (and crushing a restive region).

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本书最黑暗的部分讲述了1932-33年的饥荒,当时斯大林摧毁了乌克兰的农业,导致数百万人死亡(并粉碎了一个试图反抗的地区)G+q(3qZ3R1X3caYiDVw

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Hanna Basaraba was six years old when the Holodomor happened.

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乌克兰大饥荒发生时,汉娜·巴萨拉巴只有六岁+A~9hXD=G;

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“I remember being hungry non-stop,” she recalls.

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“我记得我无时无刻不感到饥饿3]e]-EQ|bRTe%#_3nNz。”她回忆道H)bQ8)03v8[y,5

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She ate tree bark and rotten potatoes; others boiled linen clothing to make soup.

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她不得不吃树皮和腐烂的土豆,其他人用亚麻衣服煮汤_I;(UOI(zs!CP

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One of Ms Basaraba’s neighbours was driven to madness and was believed to have eaten her own children.

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巴萨拉巴的一位邻居被逼疯了,据说她吃掉了自己的孩子]1_!bI(2S[wZ!^

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Nine decades later, Ukrainians are again being brutalised by a tyrant in Moscow.

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九十年后,乌克兰人再次受到莫斯科暴君的残暴对待^bQu0F6Y4-dvVP27H2

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As well as dropping bombs, Mr Putin has blocked grain exports via the Black Sea in order to wreck the country’s economy.

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除了投掷炸弹,普京还阻止了经由黑海的粮食出口,目的是破坏该国的经济odHcef4L-%xSQJp2S%8w

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Like Stalin, he is ruthless enough to use food as a weapon.

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像斯大林一样,他冷酷无情到可以把食物用作武器2JjWfl@Wm!1AodPDghy

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