The Pacific covers one-third of the globe.
太平洋覆盖了地球三分之一的面积。
The tiny specks of land in the middle of it are about as remote as life can get for a human being.
大洋正中的一丛零星小岛大概是人类所能抵达之极。
With so few options on land, the surrounding ocean underpins almost every aspect of life on a Pacific island.
海岛的陆地如此之少，使得周围的海域几乎支撑起了太平洋上生命的方方面面。
Over 3,000 kilometres from the nearest continent, Hawaii is one of the most isolated of all.
在距离大陆超过三千平方米的海域上，夏威夷是最为偏远的海岛之一。
There are few places where the sea has had a greater impact on human existence.
海洋对人类生存的影响在这里体现得淋漓尽致，无处可比。
The ocean, significantly to us, it's our home.
大海对我们意义深远，它就是我们的家园。
Our connection is so great, we look at it as our origin.
我们的联系如此紧密，我们视她为生命的源头。
The water is who we are, and the water is our mother, our father, our gods.
水即我们，我们即水，她是我们的生身父母，是我们的神明。
For Tom "Pohako" Stone, displaying his skill in the ocean is a central part of what it means to be Hawaiian.
对土生土长的夏威夷人来说，在海洋中尽情地展示技术是他们最重要的能力。
Sliding on waves, as it was known, has been practised by the Polynesians for millennia.
在碧波中逐流，是波利尼亚人几千年来的传统。
But it was around 1,000 years ago, when they arrived in Hawaii, that it evolved into surfing.
但那毕竟是一千年前，他们来到了夏威夷之后，这项传统变逐渐演化成了冲浪。
When we actually learned that we could construct boards to stand up and surf a wave, it became a very ritualistic component of our culture.
当我们真正学会了制作滑板，站立起来冲浪，它便成为了我们文化中根深蒂固的一部分。
Far more than just a sport, surfing was a sacred art form for Tom's ancestors.
对于居住在夏威夷的祖先而言，冲浪不仅是一项运动，更是一门神圣的艺术。

It was a core part of their society, and the noble pursuit of warriors, kings and queens.
这是他们社会的核心内容，是勇士，国王，王后才配追求的崇高目标。
We have a lot of history about women that... that surf, and, you know, they surfed so well that they actually reached godly status.
女性冲浪在我们这里历史悠久，她们的技术非常高超，达到了神一般的境界。
We revered these women.
我们很尊敬这些女性。
From ancient origins, surfing has now gone global.
有着古老起源的冲浪，现如今已风靡全球。
And for some, searching for the ride of your life has become an extreme obsession.
对有些人而言，追逐自己的生命之旅已经成为一种执着的迷恋。
December 9th, 2009.
2009年12月9日。
The world's surfing elite has gathered in Hawaii to ride some of the biggest swells to hit these shores in over a decade.
全世界的冲浪精英齐聚于夏威夷，踏上十年来最高的浪尖，在海滨边尽情戏耍。
Surfing's certainly changed, but for many it's still a way of life
冲浪本身已发生了许多变化，但对很多人来说，它依旧是一种生活方式
and the best riders are still revered as gods amongst the worldwide surfing tribe.
最棒的冲浪骑手依旧被奉为世界范围内冲浪人的神人。
With waves over 15 metres, five storeys high, this is a real test of skill and stamina.
巨浪高达15米，有5层楼的高度，这是技巧和耐力的真正考验。
Ken Bradshaw is famed for taming a 26-metre wave, probably the biggest ever ridden.
肯·布拉德肖因能驾驭26米高的海浪而闻名，这可能是目前的最高纪录。
But these unpredictable swells can claim even the most seasoned surfer.
但是这些无法预知的浪潮仍有可能夺去最有经验的冲浪者的性命。
Trapped in a rolling mountain of white water, Ken is tossed around like a rag doll in a washing machine.
陷入这样一座翻滚的浪山中，肯就像洗衣机里的洋娃娃一般翻滚不止。
Just as he surfaces, another giant breaker comes crashing in.
他刚浮出水面，又是一波巨浪呼啸而来。
After a relentless pounding from six successive waves, Ken eventually escapes in one piece.
在六波海浪连续无情的冲击之后，肯终于安全逃了出来。
All big wave surfers know the risks, but the adrenaline and the glory is addictive.
所有的巨浪爱好者都知道有风险，但肾上腺素和荣耀却是致瘾的。
And just as the ancient Hawaiians discovered, surfing is still the most spectacular demonstration of our ability to conquer the waves.
正如古老的夏威夷人发现的那样，冲浪依旧是对人类征服海洋这一能力的最壮丽的诠释。