非裔美国人与“灵魂食物”的发展(5)
日期:2022-10-11 16:03

(单词翻译:单击)

 MP3点击下载
R*%xc2Ij1T+gR;N_b55CB=_Xtdd0y@2

Black Americans did the same thing when they moved out of the South.

rvmpM%o1AGOU39]t_

美国黑人在搬离南方后也做了同样的事情IZ|Dq1Gq-UOZs

&u6Z9z_lIr5

Gathering around a table of fried chicken, pie, and cornbread was a way to combat homesickness and remember happy times spent with family back home.

4w|pVJa1KKGelJmd

围坐在桌旁享用炸鸡、馅饼和玉米面包,这是一种抗击乡愁的方式,也是回忆与家人在故乡度过的快乐时光的一种方式~+mv%E!ARD%

foZKtET@x=qY.]!v*78w

It didn't hurt that ingredients like meat, sugar, and flour were a lot more accessible in northern cities than they had been in the rural south.

8|!Ob4eyh8OF

在北方城市比在南方乡村更容易获取肉、糖和面粉等原料,这是情理之中的事情R&mK0%q6nR6#,1EM~&

e(r(RY#;C@)jeWqm0Hu

But the southern dishes black migrants brought with them to the North during the Great Migration may not have survived to see the next generation if it wasn't for black entrepreneurs.

p.hsdPJkj5

但是,如果没有黑人企业家,黑人移民在大迁徙期间带到北方的南方菜肴可能无法留存下来,传承给下一代GZ2_KGU2dd&=%Shv!2

y+ymKc6IP(

Seeing a demand for southern fare, city street vendors began selling foods they nicknamed "letters from home".

(3afojXTp3SGv^

由于出现了对南方食物的需求,北方城市的街头小贩开始出售他们绰号为“家书”的食物*ou+9s+M-UyTgeV0Z

=7v1d#+L6EY

In New York in the 1930s, vendors would hawk the so-called "Harlem Menu" on street corners, announcing to any pedestrian within shouting distance what southern goods they had in stock that week.

3t.Ai2Kxq#b

在20世纪30年代的纽约,小贩们会在街角售卖所谓的“哈莱姆菜单”,向行人大声叫卖他们那一周拥有的南方商品#~v|Mq!lIc3K

0eSPKD!FJcGX|Ao2-3d;

Southern restaurants catering to black clientele began opening in Northern cities.

cxOe;3F!dF[sdG

北方城市开始出现迎合黑人顾客的南方餐厅))j@;LWJGw,gNd_W_aG

RnygA--wviyplLnSYUm_

Southern transplants no longer had to spend the whole day shopping and cooking if they wanted to recreate a special meal from home.

oxzC_q^7&XXac+K8*

如果南方移民想要重现一顿丰盛的家乡食物,他们不用再花一整天的时间采购和制作FDm&kHvxJ=mz%Fh!8

C7v@s;61V~nOyM2(6-e[

Chefs and entrepreneurs like Sylvia Woods, Leah Chase and Edna Lewis came from diverse culinary backgrounds and left their mark on what we understand black American food to be.

2OXb~RW(FT

西尔维娅·伍兹、利亚·蔡斯和埃德娜·刘易斯等厨师和企业家拥有不同的烹饪背景,他们在我们所理解的美国黑人食物中留下了自己的印记rOrq%-DXRv*e6tRrg_(L

M60-4e=Y-itt%

But the people enjoying the food still hadn't decided on what to call it.

h)pw~qyu4KbVm.

但享用这种食物的人仍然没有决定给它们取什么名字yHM*r860f1B#r

|q#2zY5OT#I_

Around this same time, black jazz musicians were experimenting with a new label for their music that differentiated it from the white artists mimicking their sound.

_XHaN*Htd=X

大约在同一时间,黑人爵士音乐家正试图为他们的音乐取一个新的标签,将其与模仿他们音乐的白人艺术家区分开来Ollr+Rf8WJZ4ZR_r;q

F)]@(9Yf]ZOP

The name they came up with was soul.

jpO!h~U-o%Ibr]onPF

他们想出的名字是灵魂乐JegRjp&j!PLIk&%M~B@

EwKtFpIw6d3)wrDeJk

It called to mind the gospel music of southern black churches, something that undeniably belonged to African American culture.

EIT3T1-,nJD74[Rxv||

它让人想起南方黑人教堂的福音音乐,这不可否认属于非裔美国人文化drNh7k0yiAm!ODy(#l9

20%]FcvUWPJgeij(jd

By branding their music with such a personal label, black artists were essentially reclaiming ownership of their own sound.

GWqN~gkdLh0ujjfbZsG

通过给音乐打上个人品牌的标签,黑人艺术家可以说是在收回他们声音的所有权]T0bG+YmuGaI*YZ-

5c,krgEfzR3|ts

It was this climate that helped soul food become a household name.

0J^nb4xFmQUyw3-^

正是这种氛围使得灵魂食物成为了家喻户晓的名字)shpO,-8x@[S[BJKKV7D

8%sy2&OBDQ

Embracing the food of your childhood may not sound like a radical act, but for black people in the Civil Rights Era, it was an opportunity to show pride in a defining part of their history.

&.,|I#kT&Se0p)

接受儿时的食物可能听起来不像是一种激进的行为,但对于民权时代的黑人来说,这是一个机会,让他们对自己在历史上的决定性时刻表示自豪t(=Ex@icWh36yr

V_CG.Jrs,seM#Ri

Princess Pamela brought together these strands of culture, music and food, in what she called "The Little Kitchen".

EhfB~.Vz&uO=

帕梅拉公主在她称之为“小厨房”的地方把文化、音乐和食物结合在一起xl@^5TE=a4FUZMef=

EDuw=]wFiYDL+6uKn

It was originally on the second floor of an Alphabet City apartment building, at a time when some New Yorkers would avoid that neighborhood entirely, and it operated like something between a restaurant and what we'd call a private supper club today.

6F!Gm~iVMMqIl%2Q

它最初位于字母城一栋公寓楼的二楼,当时一些纽约人会完全避开那个社区,它的运营方式介于餐厅和我们今天所说的私人晚餐俱乐部之间aAA+SNQ)PV

;IOC!t=sm2W*

Strobel was known to close the doors when she felt like it and convert the space into a jazz salon for the remaining patrons.

o_%6z7&R@yk0|

众所周知,斯特罗贝尔想什么时候闭店就什么时候闭店,闭店后这个地方就成了供剩余顾客使用的爵士乐沙龙|vVidGn&1i;5Y

+,cb=U~xC0t%wuG

Musicians would play, and Princess Pamela herself would often sing.

T^cE]MLXjtcE

音乐家们会进行弹奏,帕梅拉公主自己也会经常唱歌%q&.m[0Wq4u+UkJvI

01x8dI3(oAqy%a%

If you look at the comments of the incredible piece Mayukh Sen wrote about Princess Pamela - we'll leave a link in the description - you can find former patrons speaking movingly of the unique environment Princess Pamela created and the power of her voice.

R5*Chst#+84

如果看看马尤克·森写的关于帕梅拉公主的非凡评论——我们会在简介中留下一个链接——你可以发现以前的顾客令人动容地谈论着帕梅拉公主创造的独特环境和她声音的力量!jY=~3@~kZ^.xPp

jH~sIdAVWCJ2+

She also wrote a cookbook, and it seems like as good a place as any to wrap up our story.

zX.k_Qp~0H9Dq2Kup#_

她还写了一本食谱,这似乎是一个结束今天内容的好故事OMaYpB@TvC--

cAjMb=6U;,

Princess Pamela's Soulfood Cookbook was originally published in 1969.

wWJROg|vqDD#%Fuf

帕梅拉公主的《灵魂食物食谱》最初出版于1969年CAPWfLChujC05BHU!@o

e8[qIa_T7;u4|=ATE8

It included recipes from her Little Kitchen, as well as some that may have never appeared on its often-quite-limited menu.

V5T3Id^sTgIEu

内容包括她的小厨房的食谱,以及一些可能从未出现在其内容相当有限的菜单上的菜+4Sv^s~nmUbZb

vUeFN(MLjPHe6hTd

It was out of print for over four decades before being reissued in 2017, largely through the efforts of food journalists and Southern food evangelists the Lee Brothers, who became enamored with the book upon finding it in a second-hand shop in 2004.

vhfxZtj93zQG#m]

在2017年重新出版之前,这本书已经绝版了40多年,它的再次出版主要归功于美食记者和南方食物传播人李姓两兄弟的努力,他们2004年在一家二手店发现这本书后,就对此着了迷Bqs+HWc1&hBu]jdgM7

Bx8p.SIPgXVxw(+

It's easy to see what the Lees fell in love with.

70f^Cy-E(K2R*+coqj

很容易看出李兄弟为什么着迷lB5Ois]_DQ5l

q]d|9[RGmGz5MJjx

In addition to dozens of recipes, ranging from soul-food classics like grits and biscuits to lesser-known dishes like roast opossum, Strobel includes lyrical biographical interludes and pairs many dishes with her own poems, touching on politics and culture, religion and race.

RsGF_Id~Bp

除了几十种食谱,包括粗粮和饼干等经典的灵魂食物以及烤负鼠等鲜为人知的菜肴,书中还包括抒情传记,以及许多为不同菜肴创作的对应诗歌,这些诗歌涉及政治和文化、宗教和种族uO2_rd+dvuI

@JS0B^6JVX

It's hard not to draw connections between Strobel's life and the cuisine she gave so much to.

,jF4^5mj6-

很难不将斯特罗贝尔的生活与她投入巨大心血的美食联系起来NVCg@VCk~8C0,

MAEaNkM+ovC;E+#K

Both stories are rooted in great pain, but are suffused, nonetheless, with joy and celebration.

FnIEG4Hs8#LdYd~

两者都植根于巨大的痛苦,但都充满快乐与庆祝NOz(W%CXX#]Q;n

R]@]DVg(eet

They aren't simple stories of triumph that end with tidy happy endings, but they speak to an incredible desire to come together around food, to break bread.

,+KDh0;XcF6

它们不是以完美的幸福结局结尾的简单故事,却表达了一种令人难以置信的渴望,即围绕食物走到一起,去共进一餐FJOh2^1Xok

pRx4%dhC5.uH

In the book, Strobel shares a recipe for tripe, and accompanies it with the following poem:

Lw)Z~;XUHh]RfO#UU

在这本书中,斯特罗贝尔分享了一个制作牛肚的食谱,并配了一首诗:

.sA4cNkPSj

Practically every kind of people/

g-KN#qt!54pm=|BJZck#

几乎每一种人

MjfZ*AuGTuW

eat somethin' that somebody/

=pylTfpWELRB4hgg

吃什么东西

1s6jI%8,fNSJqnF

else make a godawful face/

V~o]72wST*V]5]t5

别人都会做出可怕的表情vWNt9g,H6VrHz5q

zo@jw~z1z.qW

at. If that don' tellya what/

|ykkqrmX.=KU*PM

如果这不能告诉你

U&Q,P)vwpv^o

this race-hatin' is /

I@R|4_nue1uaL6;gR

什么是种族仇恨

]E%[aUlG.Qs

all about, nuthin' will./

s]71(a_bF8b)i

那就没有什么更有力的证据VoOW#dr2fc2+B

-g+Mu^8fVh[|Y[N8e

In this life, we gotta give /

,l|&v),];a~g*Vw!o!Mv

在这一生中,我们必须

nN*ksX(z]%yc!lIRjzOt

ourselves a chance to digest a/

%g_g,g;KM-*f

给自己一个机会去消化

9HF|;x~wKHR9e]I#kY

lotta things we don'/

BQ%z&@1zX*OF=c2]

很多我们不能

ySG,fd8u5Pd

understand right off.

t!!1Mg*vgm95]

马上理解的东西y*,2g8ifOn[|

14Q_d5KU4~*bb_~p

Thanks for watching.

a7,aTf,5wkdB

感谢您的收看q2bRWAlykzZlP_nJuJ;

I.xPiNkFEgq%!CfxutC=5GWGkq]O#&SpJK;wuvJw+#w
分享到