日本拉面改良的历史(上)
日期:2022-08-31 16:03

(单词翻译:单击)

 MP3点击下载
~pf7!V8O6w4L7SF7!cyAPSkX)C_@WG#WZ4GLcN

If the first thing you picture when you hear ramen is this, you can thank Momofuku Ando.

j5u&3^(7rz+@6M4#

如果你听到拉面的第一个印象是这样的话,你可以感谢安藤茂福库D~tmZJs9m[-wIF%MTMC

FVlhh5-;9AJk4cE

And World War II, and the Yakuza crime syndicate.

HqbtfiVPbDU

和第二次世界大战,还有黑帮犯罪集团pbviN.DmQLbasEw

GEg3gBkyGevOP-)T8t

Let's begin in August, 1945.

PT+,(bUDnde2UShX(T

让我们从1945年8月开始讲起吧5ZfrPaXePH~

ngcS^!NUAV4irXbpMn17

Japan had just announced its surrender to the Allies, and Ando was walking through war-torn Osaka.

ekL(+#M@DK6TWYEE

那时日本刚刚向同盟国宣布投降,安藤忠雄正走在饱受战争蹂躏的大阪街道aj%AugT,fdk&Y

e=4idu=pUINUO

The Allied Forces' aerial bombing had wrought destruction on the city; the factory and office buildings Ando had constructed as a business venture were no longer standing.

()ZX#JqL3[R

同盟军的空袭摧毁了这座城市;安藤为他的企业建造的工厂和办公楼已经不复存在|7)te-9tlYE._a

Nwg8Yv4@OgdKG*9aI

And on that fateful day, amidst the ravaged city, he walked by a strange scene.

nxL4buNB|QrOs=1J3

在那个命中注定的日子里,在这座被蹂躏的城市里,他走过了一个奇怪的场景TAR_l9nB!lR-GDS

=7HJmU0#Ih+7-hEGlP

Someone had set up a makeshift ramen stand among the debris.

(8*FzB(uByxgtDX+~y4

有人在废墟中搭建了一个临时拉面摊位AZ!%+W_n;Q!|J_Djsac

|kD3fVHV;dM&kArT

People were lined up, waiting for a bowl.

f5tNBK;-o[VW+lSeZVu

人们排成一排,等着获得一碗拉面iz61VW-hgN0Rs]Bm

i6xwSjQ9Lq1~uu

Apparently this image stuck with the businessman; thirteen years later, he perfected his formula for instant ramen and debuted it to the world.

&=r~kiC|bXPqCq

显然,这个场景让这位商人印象深刻;13年后,他完善了速食拉面的配方,并首次向世界展示uJL2rHKk2%Mb|guv

+J~q|yKMHb+I_n+ma

Hi, I'm Justin Dodd.

O]9&t6;7UoI2,CLY@Hc

嗨,我是贾斯汀·多德u7;poe_x^lon

aUF4ixrbUB1os

Welcome to Food History.

bVf9@[xr]v#

欢迎来到食物的历史_R8DSz2jT34me.C

0M2m=c;Bgf(HrJ.

Ramen is so much more than the food that gets you through rent week.

(sB.5Q9&GFey[

拉面不仅仅是让你度过租房周的食物vY+CVj~[bdVwC,-v

_1J-nF7k|mA^%!v#ajbL

The Japanese dish traditionally consists of wheat noodles, broth, an infinitely mutable seasoning base called tare, and optional toppings.

giq3Z^geWe8W

这道日本料理传统上由面条、肉汤、一种名为“tare”的具有多种变化的调味料和自选配料组成2(oA)Ha]Kw6K(O=M

2.j9jgvT2fBx.LQbd(

There's almost no limit to the styles and ingredients that can comfortably sit under the ramen banner.

wfuc2KrXYyzCA

拉面的风格和配料几乎没有限制,各种风味都可以算作拉面xo!df+r]q%)kfFm

WIT_-t-0%r0w;k

To trace the history of ramen, let's jump back to around 400 AD, when the first Chinese immigrants arrived in Japan.

&M|2|03HA~l(gYpP

为了追溯拉面的历史,让我们回到公元400年左右,也就是第一批中国移民到达日本的时候%X+r*^]j]C

(pt@Sn]DO2[MlA

In the ensuing centuries, a fascinating, often-fraught relationship developed between the two powers, with cross-cultural exchange flowing in both directions.

(xA%GCr;jN&zsb

在接下来的几个世纪里,两个大国之间发展出了一种迷人的、又往往令人担忧的关系,双方的跨文化交流是双向进行的GxV5^1&.f~r

#.tc!3zTF5

Either directly or indirectly, Chinese immigrants introduced the Japanese to the art of paper-making, the Chinese calendar, and Buddhism, along with new kinds of food.

wQ|&6%kFP~,|YhKKQ

中国移民直接或间接地向日本输入了造纸术、中国历法和佛教,以及新的食物种类7b|qrCMvmp

WVVV6*D8ndNr*.,%&4P

One of the ingredients that was eventually imported to Japan from China was the wheat noodle lamian.

Ik*HhLY!cv

最终从中国进口到日本的很多烹饪原料之一是小麦拉面NdaFx2;GHvhMg

(7vJbj4jGg*(5*&(T

And to understand its significance, we need to discuss pH.

EZzYN||eVXq7xfc#Zo3

为了理解这个词的意义,我们需要讨论pH值zfyfGFlSBM.-

HI,ux3hj]]awRJbkF8

Unlike many of the noodles diners were familiar with, lamian noodles are made with alkaline mineral water.

g^~mi=z3UX5CkN

与食客们熟悉的许多面条不同,拉面是用碱性矿泉水制作的vhFU^S%q6&oL

P1E*kvYu!v-_PA

What does that mean?

5Q^^+5~t7A

那是什么意思?

b+rYu|Z(%1

No one knows.

Iv2-p-JZ=Ow~

没有人知道T#;[2w7ALM=*lx

q%gT]QZ3J7!-4H

What's that?

*H3w_5qi.[;-FuU-UF

什么?

tx!0ArghmjZ

People do know?

8m7Efb%yaV

难道人们都知道?

5g~ZbAlm%S5+9w

It's just common science - pH is generally measured from 0 to 14, with pure water considered to have a neutral pH of 7.

qSt7WBs#=I-

这只是普通的科学——酸碱值一般是从0到14,而纯净水被认为是中性的,酸碱值为7ksOQJ0qu@bV*,.

|6BsaR0)@Jb5u%0n_F

By the way, this is probably a good time to point out that although I do wear glasses, I'm not a scientist, and that this somewhat simplified description of pH is squarely in what our fact-checker called "the good enough zone" of explanation.

jd~p)hSTdhO+eT

顺便说一句,现在可能是说这个的好时机,虽然我确实戴着眼镜,但我不是科学家,而且这种对pH值的简化版描述正好处于我们的剧本顾问所说的“合适的”解释范围内sTjqKlWQVoiRbE

H#3QT^g^[KP.*I

With that out of the way: when we say water is neutral, we're really saying there are an equal number of hydroxide ions, OH-, and hydronium ions, H3O+, reacting with one another.

k!R18Hi~gv;%pcE

这样一来:当我们说水是中性的时候,我们实际上是说有相同数量的氢氧离子,OH-,和氢离子,H3O+,相互作用LYwgv=pVq9

ToXq;IG@y7yy-|_fY

We can represent two of those opposite ions existing in equilibrium as 2 items of the more familiar H20.

f^9yMp%Ja0WO#v_G

我们可以将平衡中存在的两个价态相反的离子表示为我们更熟悉的H202=^2veUOEk[h]LFaiRO

[6iTDo8]j4%y!vOMD

PH is calculated based on the concentration of those positively charged hydronium ions.

f@&Y_|BGZ&

pH值是根据这些带正价态的离子的浓度计算的jtTzYPZA=*n|#

mIps~,^66Xo0IX

Anything with a pH under 7, indicating a higher concentration of hydronium ions, is considered acidic.

+rDwuSehx8d(N+V3gjs

所有pH值低于7的物质,离子浓度较高,被认为是酸性的,enS#@+T.^l

1ru6w8uFQ9wJz)=

Basic substances, on the other hand, shift the equilibrium towards hydroxide ions and are labeled with pHs over 7.

Ha2=he#^8F(nYg&ZHg

另一方面,碱性物质将平衡移向氢氧化物离子,并且pH值大于7=DcJ~w_A^Q6K72x

-ngA-o*DXWzHkJIf!X.

So where does alkalinity come into play?

^EB0jS=,fb%az1Lt

那么,碱度起到了什么作用呢?

y&2blJv^9LN^L

Basically (get it?), basic substances that can dissolve in water are called alkalis.

Q6RZppUoF&9P

基本上(明白了吗?),可溶于水的碱性物质称为碱,gD|v~PeIJ(Hu0

9hOwQAy!W;dI

So all alkalis are bases, but not all bases are alkalis.

Yb]qrIw,oV

所以所有的碱都是碱性物质,但不是所有的碱性物质都是碱pMf(tL~#xx

..#^8z7gQVMmb

This solubility, or ability to dissolve in water, is critical when it comes to cooking.

5(,hw5|H|m

这种溶解性,或溶于水的能力,在烹饪时是至关重要的;E[v()Lr^;9AbQ..et0

FS(%uc#t=PBvWR2xkoI

These charged ions are "small, mobile and quick to react with larger, more complicated molecules," in the words of food scientist Harold McGee.

txjK#oHrl#g~

用食品科学家哈罗德·麦基的话说,这些带电离子“体积小、流动性强,能迅速与更大、更复杂的分子发生反应”TVxH6.o)wWYu

5L&hugc1RHWpJ0K

This means that the building blocks of food - fat, proteins, and carbohydrates - often behave differently as we change the pH of their environments.

S^h66@)upgP0xwLC;xT

这意味着食物的不同组成部分——脂肪、蛋白质和碳水化合物——通常会随着我们环境的pH值的改变而变化PZ6ErwpoE~Ab

N&slu6L+fb@*;

Digression alert: this is how ceviche is made: the acidic, usually citrus-based marinade surrounds raw fish with hydronium ions, which interact with the strings of amino acids that make up proteins.

+3@@w9.3hw

离题警告:柠汁腌鱼肉是这样制作的:这种酸性的、通常以柑橘为基础的腌料用水合氢离子包裹生鱼,这些离子与组成蛋白质的氨基酸串相互作用ApaJG#l-rq+Pgpr-UI

@(wgIY%u87YcRS

The proteins can then be unfolded from their original states, a process known as denaturing - the effect is for the raw fish to be essentially "cooked" by the acidic marinade.

#Bf~B0@k]fs]h

然后这些蛋白质可以从它们的原始状态展开,这个过程被称为变性——其效果是生鱼基本上能被酸性腌料“烹饪好”AN5!1u7FbHQ],=3I

nQtc3JV!t6(z%28D

Pretty cool.

[-JRwSzQKP.B&

很酷^#wcap@qPalqT^~

ZC+_FCNm&TamDcu|

When it comes to alkalis and the culinary arts, we're usually talking about baking soda.

l]6_nXs-n;+Z%DE

当谈到碱和烹饪艺术时,我们通常说的是小苏打[HnkO@vcynaup

xw@[.5XSf.csu

In baking, it's used to balance acidic flavors and to interact with acidic ingredients to create C02 bubbles.

(P2+HoR[i=*

在烘焙过程中,它被用来平衡酸性味道,并与酸性成分相互作用,产生二氧化碳气泡&aCjnNJ7-egfF)2lc

USQe=4LX+K@

That acid-base reaction is kind of like a science fair volcano, and it helps doughs and batters rise.

j,Qwq2GeQH9e^~55W

这种酸碱反应有点像科学博览会的火山,有助于面团和面糊的发酵@zbxhHJQ%U1as*k^7Iy

hwK*LF]cj^X2B;19tq0

Alkalis are also used in the making of tortillas, as we discussed in our episode on nachos, and in lutefisk - shout out to YouTube commenter ZetterisBetter who suggested making an episode on lutefisk, and to Frank Albe, who suggested ramen.

F~xO-iv.n8]EEBs6;ki

正如我们在玉米片一集中讨论的那样,碱也被用来制作玉米饼和碱渍鱼——向YouTube评论员ZetterisBetter和Frank Albe表示感谢,ZetterisBetter建议制作一期有关碱渍鱼的视频,Frank Albe建议制作一期拉面相关内容Os%^IpVJK*AtnM!F

6=iG_iPmJYc5

If you have a topic you'd like to see us discuss in a future episode, let us know in the comments.

JTA@5z6cqKQ@+VZ

如果你有什么话题想让我们在之后讨论,请在评论中告诉我们rb-2c5u.pf7

+|i)eZ@xu5|

When it comes to ramen, alkalis are, in some ways, acting more like the acidic ceviche marinade then they are the baking soda found in cookies.

h2P~V6IZEO]

说到拉面,碱在其中的作用更像是酸性的柠汁腌鱼肉腌料,而不是饼干中的小苏打NWC|HoE*.4y*E@b7JRf

fHO0jumdqF3Fl%_Q))~

It's not a perfectly well-known process, but we do know that alkalis can denature proteins, just as acids can.

]v&MAvs=1j

这并不是一个很流行的烹饪方法,但我们确实知道碱可以让蛋白质变性,就像酸一样@0_=dm=CB2q6Y#2l8G9

f!wp2~Me78hMt2F.]v

In Chinese cuisine, for example, seafood is sometimes soaked in an alkaline brine containing baking soda or egg whites before cooking.

;ma%(LghHgAowiUVjA

例如,在中国料理中,有时会在烹调前将海鲜浸泡在含有小苏打或蛋清的碱性盐水中KG=5o7a(Xp

yHvPaYRPYI1DG

It gives shrimp a firmer, almost crunchy texture.

OrcfHtWY%2a3V

它能让虾更有韧性,甚至是拥有脆脆的口感GzRCN-x6wywBcfDyn.

mcaUUGq%l;A.FBC3Z8t

And when an alkaline substance is added to a noodle recipe, it apparently affects the way glutens interact in the dough.

n[k.O52Z8XMu)W6Kivv

在面条配方中添加碱性物质,显然会影响面团中面筋的相互作用方式uJ4pNswYga4|RDO

t&D)n|]34k-qbeq

More water is absorbed into the flour, more starches break down, and the result is a springy, chewy noodle that's less likely to dissolve in a bowl of hot broth.

jrFr58V-%~E4c[GFW.

面粉能够吸收更多水分,更多的淀粉被分解,这样做出点面条弹性好,耐嚼,不太可能溶于热汤中7IGc-=Iw9Y)

1|l4.G;qRbQyv,

The chemical reaction between the alkaline solution and the dough also gives ramen its signature yellow hue.

W33x;&eC)qsw^5wg6sB9

碱性溶液和面团之间的化学反应也使拉面呈现出标志性的黄色2(4vy7V2z9~Pi#M

,6SPho4Mm;pp.

But the first Chinese noodles served in Japan weren't called ramen at all.

m&]YWi794bEjg*Vpf

但在日本供应的第一种中国面条根本不叫拉面ng,uYEGTA66I#-5^#8h

u*pMbtfyrEXrh.d0X

They were known as shina soba.

r%,u|DOdqqCG1*tpzFT

他们被称为“shina soba”e_jN1.jj#^98

8B!M;A34GL-19RsqRGzvw~fubc%-GfqnvVyH
分享到