墨西哥玉米片的出现和发展(上)
日期:2022-08-23 16:03

(单词翻译:单击)

 MP3点击下载
~woDB#;12tcY1u,oYuL&%6uOi

Nachos were invented in Mexico, by a Mexican, but they're not exactly Mexican food.

QJ,|55n7XM

墨西哥人发明了玉米片,但玉米片并不完全是墨西哥食物-LTve9;XZXrcpJQYlOEL

48biwzj!xHF@0sNfWh

They're enormously successful, available in restaurants around the world, but their creator wasn't even a chef.

@(;~%2%88HU)L@

它非常流行,在世界各地的餐厅都能买到,但它们的创造者甚至不是厨师yB)%hI_VK)QbI3qR.4

%fA4|*LCQV

Confused? Me too. All the time.

j[HBpppm6ao[iwy_l.

困惑吗?我也是WvJ2-f~g%l!OTj。一直很困惑EB2xcLn@X&%4D%8

n#[X**LyqhabB2S_q

Let's go back to the 1940s.

hM5s]=KntDJse&c6K1+b

让我们回到20世纪40年代GCAIwPoMAJu5jNHY6Jc

ksJv#K5W[4-D9m

Ignacio "Nacho" Anaya was working at Club Victoria in the border town of Piedras Negras, Mexico.

4&TwpiZE6_KP+E

伊格纳西奥“纳乔(Nacho)”阿纳亚在墨西哥边境城镇彼德拉斯内格拉斯的维多利亚俱乐部工作aA1(m^_~P.Qc

sZ0_b+CfPtjJ*r^iuS

A group from the neighboring Texas town of Eagle Pass came in looking for something to eat (in his son's version of the story, it was a group of army wives from the nearby Army base, but Nacho himself was less specific).

!,aHDgz4^sIMVnWNyQ7

一群来自邻近的德克萨斯州伊格尔帕斯小镇的人进来找吃的(根据他儿子的描述,这是一群来自附近陆军基地的军嫂,但纳乔本人没有说得那么具体)8U(W.BdJ^i@z~HE

lA(^nfRGKpxsnI)!

As the restaurant's maitre’ d, Nacho's job was normally limited to attending to guests, but on this particular occasion, the cook was nowhere to be found.

p^KStdtR[;7G4U!DIN

作为餐厅的老板,纳乔的工作通常只限于招待客人,但这一次,厨师却不知道去哪了TWAaWpwIhdeg#

YknpJVR*jGO,&zIE#W

Instead of turning the customers away, Anaya ducked into the kitchen to whip up a quick dish using the few ingredients he could find.

AM%G9(h[s~D0FXw%n8C

阿纳亚没有把顾客拒之门外,而是闪进厨房,用他能找到的几种配料迅速做出了一道菜S[2GN1,!K#.tj

q.Zp^f(p,Kd

The resulting plate of tortilla chips topped with grated cheese and sliced jalapenos was a hit.

d,=m&dcf+QoytU

他做出了一道很受欢迎的菜——加了碎奶酪和切片墨西哥胡椒的玉米片[Y6KAFUd%8W3k[i5h]

R!V@9UHxGXl^

It needed a name, and Nacho's Especiales - an homage to its creator - stuck.

&.a.;7l%ky.d5nMy,

它需要一个名字,而“Nacho的特色餐”这个名字——为了向它的创造者致敬——就出现了ixJjvq#fqcz64daONQo!

6ZH*(ivlY9HK%uJ=tH3

Or at least the first half of it did, anyway.

sm5rA9P3HN(MtwAh

至少出现了前半部分wDDQtWVKNQ#2f3x

&Du=2-ZvEVZ3Xuu1

Hi, I'm Justin Dodd.

WAHsD5=sRpZ9Gu

嗨,我是贾斯汀·多德&M&.2]3e3Q@T=Ja

1Y)2TPweqbg5GK5=nEDP

Welcome to Food History.

ILqf[6oxAiye9z*X&35;

欢迎来到食物的历史3N,vpT|+pZ-F@

9E#dz7S+WQBn

The story of nachos doesn't start and end with a resourceful restaurant employee assembling a few basic components.

Re3=MCe1RmAF1mH5k~dY

玉米片的故事不仅仅是一个足智多谋的餐厅员工用几种配料做出了一道菜2O+*O=ZQa!n_B

reQ.8tQJRNg^Qby0

From the chips, to the toppings, to the molten yellow cheese that's become synonymous with the dish, the history of nachos can tell us a lot more than their simple ingredients list might suggest.

y~M)mMb#RwJ^b

从玉米片本身,到配料,再到融化的黄色奶酪(它已经成为了这道菜不可或缺的一部分),玉米片的历史比制作它的简单配料要复杂得多CLKEfJ[Fi*yI

dq~cy0#;~wd

Before we get into all that, I want to say a huge thank you for the response to our mashed potatoes video from last month.

4p1cPz+hof%A.C&I

在我们开始本期内容之前,我想说非常感谢大家对我们上个月土豆泥视频的回应t5vU61O+OJSlUAIN

;SBnyOVHxTo%&

We received a ton of awesome ideas for future episodes of the show.

*c[1!p+.N9%48n[QM*p

我们收到了很多关于这个节目未来各期内容的好点子!6DsKS]Be0oNS]|WnQ@

bXT*l7GJ]t

Shout-out especially to kujmous and boboom66 who sent us down a wild rabbit hole that led to nachos.

ZGqZoQSnk!9o)w

特别是kujmous和boboom66,他们让我们来到了玉米片的世界lV]^tdF#V9VDe

G,3^3eJV2^@

Because we got so many great ideas for future episodes, we thought this could be fun, too: If you have one particular question about food or drink history, leave it below.

uT_%zzbeX!&13N0q

因为我们得到了很多很棒的想法,我们认为这也会很有趣:如果你对食物的历史有什么特别见解,欢迎在评论区留言^Z*Wg3&FPFw

FE.DH%GVtiXe1mJ

We'll pick one question from the comments to research and then answer in our next episode.

fu0OGnroasqYBQh|b

我们将从评论中挑选一个问题进行研究,然后在下一集中回答hTj1;EW)p73^[X-L

AS2|uve8Kfu0

For now, though, let's jump back thousands of years, before Nacho was a nickname, let alone an appetizer.

JE.d1nFoy*PcplulxLW

让我们回到这一期,回到几千年前,纳乔还不是绰号,更不是一个开胃菜的时候9Z2*NY5PKJk6

MTA;(IH4_R

Corn, or maize, was first domesticated by the indigenous people living in what-is-now central Mexico around 7000 BCE.

Cc-QchbBQ.7@osdKZYm^

大约公元前7000年,居住在现在的墨西哥中部的原住民首先开始食用玉米&nQ7oNK1C[7EV|iPHyYn

=lp%%*(WE@fQW

Maize would become a vital part of the Aztec and Maya diets.

#-;lK|rtkTG%zl7kM3G

玉米成为了阿兹特克人和玛雅人饮食中至关重要的一部分M[eQFZg~%cN9@T

*qZV4jDi[g4Ua1=V|n5

But the first maize crops didn't produce the sweet, golden kernels that are sold by the can in supermarkets today.

;L2w*9RAbds,

但第一批种植的玉米作物并不像如今在超市里用罐头出售的玉米一样,有金黄色的甜粒wkw(aCs^zKB|.g

8TGrdZiu@_E#(g~

Early corn grew on tiny cobs and was trapped in tough casings that made it hard to eat.

l;9*.FU9caj

早期的玉米长在很小的玉米棒上,外壳坚硬,也很难吃A@aPzPuQwf#.

Dh#L]q_66az(4

By the way, "Early Corn" & "Tiny Cobs" are actually the nicknames my girlfriend and I have for each other.

S]ay4vwbiwR+E#5X0H=_

顺便说一句,“早期玉米”和“小玉米棒”实际上是我和我的女朋友给彼此起的昵称LST,_7&3Jf(,~

*i2+obscfn%

I'm kidding!

xj0#Ql33_|

开玩笑的!

W1k^IgYR4;S|l%p

She doesn't exist.

.Mi71Cg%9B&bu#

我女朋友在哪呢=~Gfgpp&Z=gvr

8#__r9R.cOR0)CznC

To turn maize into something more palatable, Mesoamericans developed a process called nixtamalization, probably around 1500 BCE.

GI3,Y&7gTi

为了让玉米更加可口,中美洲人在大约在公元前1500年左右发明了一种名为“碱化湿磨法”的玉米处理过程eqU~.uY]AK-.Z#

C[Sm@LO]iN5&leWX

In addition to being an absolutely killer move in Scrabble, nixtamalization involves drying corn kernels and then soaking them in warm water mixed with an alkali, like ash or slaked lime.

.fPFXSDCEKSe@jQT

除了在拼写游戏中作为杀手级的存在之外,碱化湿磨法还指将玉米粒烘干,然后将它们浸泡在混合了碱(比如灰烬或熟石灰)的温水中Ga+mR0D|zpVvG7W_l4M2

+BCHtVayIvMk0gjo^Z3

The high-pH solution is caustic, and it partially breaks down the tough cell walls of the corn, making it easier to chew and digest.

jF,%dcNx#moWY!k

高pH值溶液具有腐蚀性,它能分解玉米一部分坚硬的细胞壁,使其更容易咀嚼和消化|Z=xq)x6Tv

CuF1~9l)oFe

Nixtamalized maize has the added bonus of being more nutritious.

khOEWMo)Z_n

经过碱化湿磨法处理的玉米还有一个额外的优点,那就是更有营养%p(Bzry(Q0jcg|6B

eLm_tG1&]G*RO9H+

Corn is high in niacin, or vitamin B3, but it's bound to other chemicals in the raw version of the grain.

W4(+RtPkSF1K@JZu

玉米含有很高的烟酸,也就是维生素B3,但它与生谷物中的其他化学物质结合在一起RD4Oi,2I(y

SYtSLkfy_#HAXbc~16y

When the bound form of niacin passes through the digestive tract, the small intestine can't absorb it, so it passes through the body without giving us any nutritional benefits.

VS3hSM1isv610

当结合形式的烟酸通过消化道时,小肠不能吸收它,所以不能带给我们任何营养I%hsa6#Jwhx4rRgI

TUT(0LSQ3v@ec@

Many people who relied on unprocessed maize as a primary food source suffered from niacin deficiency, which caused malnutrition and a disease called pellagra.

Kc|ied]!e00J

许多将未经加工的玉米作为主要食物来源的人都患有烟酸缺乏症,这会导致营养不良和糙皮病l1N_DRHWPIlE;[3@

aSN#tmSC(r0[

Pellagra is characterized by symptoms like sores on the skin, diarrhea, and delusions.

]6)Tpz&mR1AJ@OT]d

糙皮病患者具有皮肤溃疡、腹泻和妄想等症状v_ceCJw[NY

3&B&gYESM&!CJTHys**

Yikes.

aFfK5;fX)tL_

哎呀#ma5mY;~wEC34YG

4Yv!i5t6&&OF

Nixtamalization releases the niacin from those other chemicals.

3(i)4suj_yh8c8

碱化湿磨法能够让生谷物中的其他化学物质释放出烟酸OJ#W-W)0ey

Y.Q!X3I|8_2+YP

Following the development of nixtamalization, cases of niacin deficiency dropped, and the region's first major civilizations began popping up.

9RnrHqT_KMr!TD

随着碱化湿磨法的发展,烟酸缺乏症病例减少,该地区第一批主要文明开始涌现53kL^GW[#B*K*s4

ah*!.K%HH]AI%eejn^H

Fun fact: a 1997 article in the Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine suggested that pellagra could've been responsible for a certain type of mythological belief.

t(oly[MfK64Un]Cm

讲一个有趣的事实:1997年发表在《皇家医学会杂志》上的一篇文章指出,糙皮病可能是吸血鬼神话兴起的原因v!wxw=g9[_;.8wFcyZY

m#.ekI.yWjWI~r]

As corn became a major part of European diets, many peasants consumed un-nixtamalized corn as if it was any other grain that could be treated with powerful mills.

Pc3FYh6%l~8ditQF

随着玉米成为欧洲人饮食的主要组成部分,许多农民开始购买未经碱化湿磨法处理的玉米,就好像它和其他所有可以用强大的磨坊处理的谷物是一样的mBa6_;Q~qTQV

PUxeT&[_IyS

This led to widespread niacin deficiencies and rampant cases of pellagra.

pnFCp1gH61#^8;5BNKP

这导致大量烟酸缺乏和糙皮病病例涌现49*,p|)i+(qqtC

k3x-(o&xXFn3

The article's authors suggest that the disease's symptoms, such as the sensitivity to light that accompanies dermatitis, could be tied to the rise of vampire legends.

@E9@VQ(WAU#xZl2p[k

这篇文章的作者认为,这种疾病的症状,如伴随皮炎而来的对光敏感,可能与吸血鬼传说的兴起有关9g,uR0AK77qw~;9h1h

+SE@|rfU&DWPlhY5

Whether this is true or not, it did inspire me to write a horror fantasy novel about an undead ear of corn.

u_P%MzirUjRLEiEdWma4

不管这是真是假,它确实给我带来了启发,让我写了一本关于一个不死玉米的恐怖奇幻小说.H2(Z=W6l7

%[=GFgYjlROdny~

Hear me out, instead of a bat, he changes into a uni-CORN.

R9x[~,v,CIVYSYgCO

听我说完,我小说里的吸血鬼不再是一只蝙蝠,而是变成了一个玉米1fY.Jw91|f8nM(k

.asYuNw,!Tx

*VO: I want to shuck your corn*

v5R#=x!qwj)8,H&

*VO:我想剥掉你的玉米*

1Br.LTY|na-5

Maybe this is why I don't have a girlfriend.

rNfwk,rS~S5.Hc,6,d

也许这就是我没有女朋友的原因7l_blzd0f9&lu+#u9

zE62e#;B+_

Now, you may be wondering, what does soaking corn in lime have to do with nachos?

Xj0_Pt];2RP7Rdi

现在,你可能想知道,用石灰浸泡玉米和玉米片有什么关系?

ig#oQotSDcP-7IB#

Well, nixtamalized corn comes with one more perk - one that's of particularinterest to us.

KWx-Ov|l13+elJwCtU

碱化湿磨法处理的玉米还有一个额外的优点——一个对我们来说非常有意思的优点uS+DS[S~dkOy|UT

S5~bgw6n-H7

When it's nixtamalized, corn can be made into masa - basically a corn dough.

8#a2xF;SG1MUlb8XE

当玉米经过碱化湿磨法处理后,就可以制成玉米面&-o.5E9]ZC%I*_7iK1V

&c&No41uq-]xR,g@1N

It's the basis for tacos, tamales, and pupasas, along with many other amazing dishes.

;m%,(Fj1M;Fv#

它是制作玉米饼、玉米粉蒸肉、普普沙,以及许多其他令人惊叹的菜肴的基础[t.4OOCKpbzb

hw|lwqLrh..ff!f#6

And in the modern era, that includes Tex-Mex favorites like nachos.

7[b=vv=,sAt

在现代,这些菜肴中就包括在美国西南和墨西哥最受欢迎的玉米片Yabjj3,V*H

9LI5&-vymMx

People in Mexico have been flattening balls of masa and cooking them to make tortillas for thousands of years.

!N4;x9aD.myu

几千年来,墨西哥人一直将湿润粉糊做成的团状物压平来制作成玉米饼ZO!qOCKF&KIBe23D

ut1^Wb-oU.bOuJ]|;

And for many of those years, cooks would fry up extra hunks of tortillas to make chilaquiles.

YKfV;o&Bn9)

在那时的很长一段时间里,厨师会额外炸几块玉米饼来做鸡肉青豆玉米饼CPjg~vz.yyV

~k2~6Y_13M.dhtX9q

The fried tortilla pieces are covered in salsa and served with delicious toppings like cotija cheese and meat.

l5lB~jZMU4VKVB%Wi

在炸玉米饼上覆盖沙拉调味汁,再配上美味的配料,如科提加奶酪和肉|k2K3reF]TsC

Bb[DY)R=ju5K5pOq~uJ

It may be one of the closer analogues to nachos you'll commonly find in Mexico, and guys - it's really good.

;jJS#kaN;sDyEt_

这可能是你在墨西哥常见的更接近玉米片的食物之一,伙计们——它真的很棒#Qk^axn~REG3

jJdD+h4,HSon

When whole corn tortillas are fried in fat, they're called tostadas - which literally translates to toasted in Spanish.

*#17sS)N#D

油炸整个玉米饼制作出来的菜肴被称为tostadas--在西班牙语中,字面意思是烤面包GAshVpCW)E551|Ysy;c6

c;.Qq](KA35uk8s!

Tostadas are often topped with tasty ingredients, from seafood to beans, but at their core, they're basically giant tortilla chips.

R5#E(#LgCB#l-uy]t5

Tostadas上面通常都会摆放美味的食材,从海鲜到豆类,但核心基本上都是巨型玉米片,gOm|l~DoV.Y

l+#W=*7g-z,V

And the history of fried tortillas probably goes way back.

4EL]oc8!N]

油炸玉米饼的历史可能要追溯到很久以前gAtScidhne

IlBzOFS)zB

According to a doctoral thesis written by Vanessa Fonseca, there is an account from the 16th century of "pedazos fritos de tortilla," or fried tortilla strips, though those may have been dry-toasted, rather than fried in oil.

voSLj8J-eNyZEX_M

根据凡妮莎·丰塞卡的一篇博士论文,有一个关于16世纪的“Pedazos Fritos de Tortilla”,也就是炸玉米饼条的记载,尽管这些玉米饼可能是烤制的,而不是用油炸的2HM,TSfR(%-

FDI5Y.EsFci=N#q

In any case, the modern, bite-sized version of the fried tortilla didn't really begin to emerge as a distinct category until the 1900s.

C]bJB6X6EDJivbX]Ol=

无论如何,直到20世纪90年代,现代的、一口大小的炸玉米饼才真正开始形成一个独特的类别6Uotwn9ADI#cV3q_pE

q3SpVqFtfplzV!M-WfY39g-!1galQ&3i!Zy
分享到