A revolution is taking place in American fashion. With a focus on fit and durability, and collections built on basic staples and knitwear in neutral hues, this new breed of contemporary luxury labels is filling the most stylish wardrobes — and its discreet brand of understated and simple femininity is valued above all.

美国时尚界正在经历乾坤巨变。这类新涌现的奢侈品牌注重服装的合身及耐用性，时装系列由最基本的主打款式组成，针织衣物采用中性色，这些逐渐成为炙手可热的抢手货——体现女性含蓄与简洁的小众品牌则最受青睐。

The Row — founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in 2006 — has built a following for essaying “relaxed and timeless elegance”. Gabriela Hearst describes her garments as “classic with a rustic edge”. Ryan Roche refers to her knitwear as “pared-back and minimal and essential”, while Rosetta Getty defines her eponymous line as “refined and easy to style for effortless dressing”.

由玛丽-凯特(Mary-Kate)和阿什利•奥尔森(Ashley Olsen)姐妹创办于2006年的品牌The Row因其“闲适隽永的优雅感”而拥趸如云；加布丽埃拉•赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)称自己设计的时装是“透着乡土气息的经典款式”；罗奇•瑞恩(Ryan Roche)称自己设计的针织装是“瘦削型、风格简约、必不可少”，而罗塞塔•盖蒂(Rosetta Getty)则把自己的同名品牌定义为“精致、随意搭配的休闲装”。

Set in 12 acres in New York state, Roche’s barn-conversion studio is a rustic space punctuated with oak worksurfaces and mood boards on whitewashed walls. Now in her eighth season, she takes her palette seriously and considers each collection an addition to a lifestyle look. “It’s part of the conversation, how the new colours are going to work with the season before,” she says. “It’s another reason my customers love my collection, as it’s so easy for them, everything is harmonious and all the shades work together.”

罗奇由谷仓改建而成的工作室位于美国纽约州乡村（占地面积达12英亩），工作室内不时可以看到橡木的工作台面以及画在白墙面上的各种情绪板。罗奇进入设计行当已有8个年头，如今她对各种服装颜色精明老到，觉得每个系列都好比增加了一款生活类时装。“这是生活与时尚的互动内容——新色调如何衔接前一个时装季。”她说，“这也是粉丝喜欢我设计的时装的另一原因，因为她们穿上后轻松自在，一切显得那么和谐自然，所有色调实现了珠联璧合。”

Each of these labels focuses on building a wardrobe rather than offering trend-driven looks. Their success is in their uniformity — “we’re consistent with the way that we build on our collections,” says Ashley Olsen. “You’re adding pieces rather than discarding and starting afresh every season,” says Maria Lemos, founder of the wholesale showroom and communications agency Rainbowwave, which represents Hearst. “Pieces from these brands aren’t like a statement dress that after a while you feel you’ve worn to too many parties. These are investment pieces.”

上述每个品牌都专注于“开辟新的天地”而不是提供顺应流行时尚的装束。它们的成功就在于始终如一——“我们一以贯之设计时装系列。”阿什利•奥尔森说。“我们每个时装季只是添货而不是另起炉灶重新开始。”玛丽亚•莱莫斯(Maria Lemos)说，她是伦敦批发类展厅及广告公司Rainbowave的创始人，Rainbowave是赫斯特品牌的代理公司。“上述几个品牌并不像是那种没穿几次就已经显得像是老面孔的高调华服，它们是真正值得买的时装。”

Getty, who is based in LA, uses fabrics that can be worn throughout the year. “I may include a luscious cashmere for the fall season, or a fun, easy lace for spring — most of the fabrics are cross-seasonal,” she says. “My goal is to introduce clothing where the worth lies in the design and fabrication.”

定居洛杉矶的盖蒂采用常年适穿面料设计时装。“我或许会运用柔软光滑的羊绒面料设计秋装，或是用逗趣舒适的蕾丝装设计春装——多数面料都适合跨季穿。”她说，“我的目的是推出那些设计与做工俱佳的时装。”

With sweaters costing from ￡700, durability and practicality are vital. Roche uses the finest Mongolian cashmere, but her sweaters can be machine washed on a delicate cycle and tumble dried. “I don’t want it to be too precious,” she says. “I want women to be able to really love it and live in it.”

对于起售价700英镑的毛衣，经久耐穿与实用性至关重要。罗奇采用质量上乘的蒙古羊绒，但她的毛衣可用洗衣机柔洗以及使用滚筒进行干燥。“我不想让它太过娇贵。”她说，“我希望女性朋友发自内心喜欢它，生活中片刻不离身。”

After testing the prototypes of her new handbag line, Hearst improved the hardware and closure of her “Nina” bag because it was opening too many times in a way she didn’t like. And when she became concerned that a waxed vest from her line would dirty other clothes, she wore it for a week to ensure it didn’t. “No disclaimer tag needed,” she says. Practical details are also considered: pockets must be big enough for an iPhone 6; shoes are made with double-welded soles for longevity.

检测完自己的新手袋系列的样品后，赫斯特着手改进了Nina手袋的开关与五金件，原因是手袋太过频繁的开合很让自己腻烦。当她担心自己设计的一款蜡染马甲可能会沾脏其它衣服时，为此她亲自试穿了一周时间才确定这纯属多虑。“不能以免责声明推诿。”她说。她对各种实用性细节同样上心：口袋必须大到能搁放一部iPhone 6手机；鞋跟必须双面焊接以保证结实耐穿。

Luxury fabrics, and choosing to do much of their manufacturing in New York, mean higher prices, but despite this, these garments sell — very well. The Row is a bestseller on Matchesfashion.com, and Roche’s $980 fisherman sweater sold out at Barneys this season. Getty “does incredibly well online”, says Lemos, and this season will be available at Selfridges. “It’s the way we live now; we want less but we want good quality.”

选用高档面料以及大多在纽约制作完成的时装意味着更高的售价，但尽管如此，这些时装非常畅销。The Row是Matchesfashion.com网店上的销量第一的品牌，罗奇售价980美元的厚毛衣(fisherman sweater)更是在巴尼斯百货店(Barneys)被抢一空。盖蒂的产品“在网店尤其畅销”，莱莫斯说，这个时装季，盖蒂将进场塞尔福里奇百货(Selfridges)销售。“这就是我们如今的生活特点——少而精为上。”

Each of these women, who have a hugely aspirational lifestyle, makes an excellent advertisement for their label: Getty works from her mid-century mansion perched atop Runyon Canyon Park in the Hollywood Hills, Roche from her 17th-century barn studio. Hearst uses local artisans to weave wool sheared from sheep on her family’s Uruguayan ranch. There’s a simplicity to their idyllic way of life: swathed in cashmere and surrounded by nature. Sweaters, it seems, have serious selling power.

过着高大上生活的每一位女性设计师，就好比为自己品牌做了一次绝佳的广告代言：盖蒂的工作场所就是其雄踞于好莱坞山中鲁尼恩峡谷公园(Runyon Canyon Park in the Hollywood Hills)顶上的中世纪豪宅；而罗奇的工作场就在其17世纪的谷仓改建而成的工作室。赫斯特雇佣当地手工艺人纺羊毛，羊毛就剪自自己家在乌拉圭牧场饲养的绵羊。她们的田园牧歌生活简单质朴：身穿羊绒衫怡然自得地生活在大自然的环抱中。毛衣似乎特别畅销。

Rosetta Getty

罗塞塔•盖蒂

“Every time I have an upcoming meeting or trip, I think about what pieces would make my life easier,” says mother-of-four Rosetta Getty, 46. “With my clothes, I want to tell a story by reimagining classic styles in a way that’s appealing to women like myself.” As a model, Getty was catapulted into the fashion industry aged 14, shuttling between Silver Lake, LA, and Europe to pose for Bruce Weber and Paul Jasmin. Now married to the Brothers & Sisters actor Balthazar Getty, great-grandson of the oil tycoon J Paul Getty, she launched her label for autumn 2014, having closed her Rosetta Millington childrenswear label in 2001 after 10 years.

“每次我赴会或是外出前，我都会认真考虑穿啥衣服能让自己的生活更为惬意。”今年46岁、已是4个孩子妈妈的盖蒂这样说道。“我设计时装时，往往会设想这种款式是否会吸引像我这样的女性。”14岁的盖蒂偶然进入时尚界，成为一名模特，从此她的生活就穿梭于洛杉矶的银湖(Silver Lake, LA)与欧洲之间，参与布鲁斯•韦伯(Bruce Weber)以及保罗•加斯明(Paul Jasmin)执拍的广告片。嫁给《兄弟姐妹》(Brothers & Sisters)男主角、石油大亨保罗•盖蒂(J Paul Getty)的孙子巴尔萨泽•盖蒂(Balthazar Getty)后，她于2001年关闭了自己创建10年的童装品牌Rosetta Millington，并于 2014年秋季创建了自己的同名时装品牌。

She has a roster of high-profile friends to wear her designs, among them her childhood best friend Patricia Arquette, for whom Getty created a dress for the 2015 Academy Awards, where Arquette took home best supporting actress for Richard Linklater’s Boyhood.

很多明星朋友都是她时装的粉丝，其中就有儿时的闺蜜帕特里夏•阿奎特(Patricia Arquette)，盖蒂专为对方设计了参加2015年奥斯卡颁奖典礼的一款连衣裙，阿奎特凭借自己在理查•林克莱特(Richard Linklater)执导的《少年时代》(Boyhood)中的出色表演而勇夺最佳女配角奖。

Getty is a designer who opts not to dictate: “Many of the pieces are designed to be worn in multiple ways — ties that can be knotted closely to the body, draped or even left undone,” she says. Signatures include elongated tunics with fluid lines, worn over loose-fitting trousers.

盖蒂不是一位因循守旧的设计师：许多时装可有多种穿法——领带既可系、也可装饰，甚至只是挂在脖子里压根不系。她的代表性时装就是与宽松款裤子搭配、带有流畅线条的瘦长束腰外衣。

Ryan Roche

瑞恩•罗奇

Before moving upstate eight years ago, Roche, 38, lived in Brooklyn, working on her then childrenswear label made from Japanese organic cotton. Encouraged by her clients, who included actresses Maggie Gyllenhaal and Milla Jovovich, Roche launched her women’s label in 2011 in the quietest way possible: sharing a 12-piece collection with an intimate group of friends and supporters. “It was tiny for a few years,” says Roche.

八年前北上发展时，今年38岁的罗奇一直居住于纽约的布鲁克林，专心打造自己的童装品牌（采用日本有机棉布）。在女星玛姬•吉伦哈尔(Maggie Gyllenhaal)以及米拉•乔沃维奇(Milla Jovovich)等明星客户的鼓动下，罗奇于2011年推出了自己的女性品牌，这是有史以来最名不见经传的品牌：与一帮闺蜜与拥趸共享由12件时装组成的系列。“几年中，这个系列没啥影响力。”罗奇说。

She has signed to an international showroom and word is spreading — Ryan Roche is now stocked by 55 retailers. While she plans to operate as a full lifestyle brand, she will remain true to the brand’s DNA. “The heart and soul of our brand will always be our knitwear,” she says of her aesthetic — staples include cashmere two-pieces and knitted evening gowns. “Two of my top sellers [the fisherman sweater and a fringed cashmere knit] are things I introduced in my first season. When I fall in love with something that a designer does, I’m heartbroken to see the next season it’s gone. It’s always been my philosophy to be consistent.”

她随后与国际知名展厅签约，其知名度迅速扩散——瑞恩•罗奇如今入主了55 家零售百货店。虽说罗奇只打算成为纯生活类品牌，但她仍会忠于自己品牌的时尚风格。“针织装永远是自己品牌的核心。”她这样评说自己的时尚风格——主要产品包括羊绒两件套与针织类晚礼服。“两款最为畅销的款式（厚毛衣与带流苏的羊绒针织毛衣）是自己首个时装季推出的。我对某款时装爱不释手、但下个时装季它却成了“弃儿”后，就会为此伤心不已。我的信条就是始终如一秉持自己的时尚风格。”

Gabriela Hearst

加布丽埃拉•赫斯特

“A lot of our product is made by hand in Italy, and when you’re making things by hand you have limitations and timings. You cannot rush it,” says Hearst, 39. “I think it comes from my ranching background. If you are in the middle of nowhere and really off the grid, everything has a purpose.”

“我的很多时装都是在意大利手工制作而成，手工打造的时装存在诸多局限性以及时机把握的问题。不可能一蹴而就。”今年39岁的赫斯特这样说道，“这觉得这一切源于自己的牧场生活经历，置身于远离现代科技的偏僻地方，做啥事都会有目的性。”

A former model, Hearst was born in Uruguay, during the civic-military dictatorship, and spent most of her summers on the family ranch herding cattle. The aesthetic of the label she founded in 2015 draws from both her upbringing in South America and Manhattan residency: matter-of-fact, wearable garments with a rustic edge, translating into an unfinished hem on a georgette gown, or teaming elegant dresses with heavy boots.

当过模特的赫斯特出生于乌拉圭，在乌国内军政府独裁统治期间，每个夏天的多数时间，她都会在家庭牧场放牧。她于2015年创建了自己的品牌，其时尚风格源于其从小在南美长大以及在曼哈顿生活的经历：设计的服装实用耐穿、透着乡土气息，最终推出的是带着未染色褶边的乔其纱（一种极薄的透明细纱）连衣裙以及搭配笨重靴子的漂亮裙子。

Hearst and her husband also manage the family’s livestock estate, and will this season use their own wool in her collections for the first time.

赫斯特与丈夫如今还经营着自家的畜牧场，今年这个时装季，他们将首次采用自产的羊毛设计时装。

The Row

The Row

That Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have managed to create one of the most coveted labels while remaining relatively under the radar is astonishing. Rather than becoming a flash-in-the-pan celebrity fashion line, the former actresses, 29, have proved slow and steady wins: after almost a decade in business they launched their first retail store in LA’s Melrose Place last year. “We like doing things slowly, seeing how people respond to things, and learning from our mistakes,” says Ashley. “We try not putting it all out there.”

玛丽-凯特和阿什利•奥尔森姐妹设法创建了时尚界最令人觊觎的品牌、同时又保持低调神秘，此举着实让人难以置信。今年29岁的这对姐妹花非但没有成为昙花一现的名人时装设计师，相反，这对昔日的女星成为稳扎稳打的大赢家：从业近10年后，她们去年在洛杉矶的梅尔罗斯广场(Melrose Place)开设了首家零售门店。“我们喜欢慢工出细活，随时关注消费者的反馈，并从自己的失误中汲取教训。”阿什利说，“我们努力避免四面开花。”

The twins, who took over creative direction after losing Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski to Hermès in 2014, offer garments that have little intimation of gender. Ready-to-wear staples include cashmere and silk-blend capes, silk-satin camisoles and loosely tailored trousers (the label’s name alludes to the tailoring of Savile Row). “Retailers have seen that a quiet brand like The Row can be one of their best performers,” says Maria Lemos of Rainbowwave.

这对双胞胎姐妹在Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski2014年转投爱马仕(Hermès)门下后，亲自接任了创意总监一职，随后推出了没有性别界限的时装。主要成衣款式包括了羊绒与真丝混纺的披肩、真丝缎的贴身背心以及休闲款裤子（品牌名字The Row暗指伦敦萨维尔街(Savile Row)定制成衣业）。“零售商们亲睹了The Row这类名不见经传的品牌变身为最叫卖的品牌。”Rainbowwave创始人玛丽亚•莱莫斯这样说道。