(单词翻译:单击)
Fashion attention may be focused on Paris, where the European men’s wear collections have drawn to a close and the couture began Sunday evening with Versace’s parade of gym-inspired glamazons. But in a different hemisphere, an equally eye-catching show has been taking place, which is worth pausing to consider for a moment.
巴黎的欧洲男装系列已经接近尾声,周日(1月24日)晚上,范思哲(Versace)以健身为灵感的魅力时装秀拉开了高级定制的大幕,眼下时尚界的焦点可能都集中在那里。但是在另一个半球,一场同样引人瞩目的活动正在进行,它值得我们停下来思考一下。
I am speaking, of course, of the Australian Open, the tennis tournament that kicks off the Grand Slam quartet. If the ready-to-wear calendar is divided into four seasons — spring/summer, pre-fall, autumn/winter and cruise — the Slam tournaments fulfill almost the same function for sports wear (i.e., the stuff you wear to play sports; as opposed to sportswear, the system of separates attributed to the American fashion industry). Which means the Australian Open is also the opening style salvo of the year. It sets the tone for season one.
我说的当然是澳大利亚网球公开赛(Australian Open),它是四大满贯赛事的第一站。如果成衣日历分为春夏、秋初、秋冬和度假四季,那么四大满贯也能把运动服装日历分成类似的四季(运动服装指的是运动时穿的衣服,而不是运动休闲服,据说这种区分来自美国时装业)。也就是说,澳网也是展示开年时装风格的大舞台。它奠定了第一季的基调。
Though this might seem irrelevant to those with their eyes trained on the couture ateliers in France, what elite athletes wear on the court has a trickle-down effect on that increasingly important clothing genre known as “athleisure,” which has an impact on what everyone wears.
虽然对于那些专门研究法国高级定制工作室的人士来说,这也许无关紧要,但是顶级运动员们在运动场上穿的服装对“运动休闲服”(athleisure)这个越来越重要的服装类别有着涓滴效应,它影响到我们每个人的服装。
The sports stuff gets put into the melting pot along with the haute stuff and the street stuff, and out comes the stuff of your wardrobe. Which means that, just as what happens on the runways over the next three days of couture matters, the trends being unveiled at the Australian Open in Melbourne matter. And they are?
运动服装、高级定制服装和街头服饰加入大熔炉,融合出来的就是你的衣橱。也就是说,墨尔本澳网展现的潮流和未来三天高级定制秀台上的潮流一样重要。那么,澳网的潮流是什么呢?
Color. Also, geometric prints and some sheer. But mostly: color. The kind of saturated, sunset color most often associated with tropical drinks, as opposed to tennis.
色彩。还有几何印花和轻薄质材。不过,最重要的是色彩,那种像日落的饱和色,通常与热带饮料而不是网球联系在一起。
Serena Williams kicked the whole thing off with her neon-yellow Nike crop top and skirt, not necessarily the best look for her (she resembled a bionic parakeet), but one that gave new dimension to what is shaping up to be the shade of month, also modeled by Jelena Jankovic (a hibiscus yellow), Novak Djokovic (a sunshine-y Uniqlo shirt) and Marin Cilic (lemon Li-Ning polo).
小威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)开场穿的是霓虹黄耐克(Nike)露脐上衣和短裙,这不一定是她最好看的造型(看起来像一只仿生长尾鹦鹉),但它奠定了本月色彩的基调,叶连娜·扬科维奇(Jelena Jankovic,木槿花黄色)、诺瓦克·乔科维奇(Novak Djokovic,阳光色优衣库汗衫)和马林·西里奇(Marin Cilic,柠檬黄李宁马球衫)纷纷效仿。
Then there was Maria Sharapova’s peach-melba Nike halter dress with sheer mesh insert in back; Kei Nishikori’s Uniqlo tangerine dream; Caroline Wozniacki’s sunset-toned Stella McCartney for Adidas; Ana Ivanovic’s cherry/rose/coral graphic Bauhaus-inspired Adidas; and Agnieszka Radwanska’s fluoro pink Lotto number.
然后,玛丽亚·莎拉波娃(Maria Sharapova)穿了一件桃红色耐克吊带连衣裙,后背是透明网眼;锦织圭穿的是优衣库橘色运动装;卡洛琳·沃兹尼亚奇(Caroline Wozniacki)穿的是斯特拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)为阿迪达斯(Adidas)设计的日落色运动装;安娜·伊万诺维奇(Ana Ivanovic)穿的是阿迪达斯以包豪斯学院(Bauhaus)为灵感的樱桃色/玫瑰色/珊瑚色运动装;阿格涅兹卡·拉德万斯卡(Agnieszka Radwanska)穿的是荧光粉Lotto连衣裙。
Hot pink also showed up on Timea Bacsinszky and Carla Suárez Navarro. As it happens, Ms. Radwanska is playing Ms. Navarro in the quarterfinals on Tuesday, which could give new meaning to the idea of a “match,” so it will be interesting to see if one of them opts for a different shade.
玫红色也出现在蒂梅娅·巴钦斯基(Timea Bacsinszky)和卡拉·苏亚雷斯·纳瓦罗(Carla Suárez Navarro)身上。周二(1月26日),拉德万斯卡和纳瓦罗将在四分之一决赛上对决——这将赋予match(既有“比赛”的意思,也有“搭配”的意思)这个词新的含义——看看她们俩是否有人会换一种颜色还蛮有意思的。
As to why the fruity palette, well, it could have something to do with beachy Australian inspirations; an effort to celebrate color before getting locked into the all-white situation at Wimbledon; the desire to start the year with energy; or, as The Age, a Melbourne newspaper, posited, “attempting to psych-out their competitors.”
至于为什么他们都选择水果色,呃,可能与海滩众多的澳大利亚有关;也可能是为了在陷入温布尔登全白色的环境之前庆祝缤纷的色彩;也可能是为了充满活力地开始新的一年;又或者像墨尔本报纸《The Age》说的,“为了吓倒对手”。
Whatever the reason, however, the upside of the trend was demonstrated by Stanislas Wawrinka, with his two-tone Tequila Sunrise of a matching shirt and shorts combo, fire opal orange melting into yellow fading back into orange. It left last year’s nerd-chic look in the shade. We’ll toast to that.
不过,不管是因为什么原因,这种潮流的优势在斯坦尼斯拉斯·瓦林卡(Stanislas Wawrinka)身上得以体现,他身穿龙舌兰日出鸡尾酒(Tequila Sunrise)样的两色汗衫和短裤套装,火蛋白石橙色渐变成黄色又融入下面的橙色。这比去年的书呆子风造型多好了。我们要举杯庆祝一下。
And we’ll see if any of it shows up on the catwalks.
让我们看看其中一些色彩会不会出现在秀台上。