Grace Dove had merely one credit in an obscure low-budget film and a recurring role in an action-adventure sports documentary series when she landed the part of the Native American wife of Leonardo DiCaprio’s fur trapper character in “The Revenant.”

格蕾丝·达夫(Grace Dove)在《荒野猎人》(The Revenant)中饰演莱昂纳多·迪卡普里奥(Leonardo DiCaprio)饰演的皮草猎人的印第安妻子之前，仅出演过一部不出名的低成本电影，在一部动作冒险体育系列纪录片中多次亮相。

This soon-to-be released Western thriller is directed by Alejandro G. Iárritu, whose “Birdman” swept the top Oscar categories in March. Once 20th Century Fox begins promoting his new $60 million wintery wilderness blockbuster, it is likely to emerge as a frontrunner in the 2016 Oscar race.

这部即将上映的西部惊悚片由亚历杭德罗·G·伊尼亚里图(Alejandro G. Iárritu)执导。今年3月，他执导的《鸟人》(Birdman)横扫奥斯卡多项大奖。20世纪福克斯电影公司(20th Century Fox)开始宣传他的这部投资6000万美元的寒冷荒野大片之后，它很可能会成为2016年奥斯卡竞赛的领跑者。

And Ms. Dove — the only woman in the movie’s all-star male cast — may have a shot at landing a major fashion advertising campaign.

这部电影的阵容几乎全是男明星，达夫是唯一的女演员。她可能会给一个著名时装公司拍广告。

In recent years, there has been a growing divide between brands using under-the-radar talent and those loyal to Hollywood’s A-list actors who, for years, have dominated major luxury campaigns and filled ambassador roles. The attractions of less well-known faces seem to be as varied as a conviction that they best represent the brand and a desire for the sense of insider cool conveyed by a front row or ad model whom only the select will recognize.

近些年，时装品牌在选择代言人方面的差别越来越明显，有的选用不出名的新秀，有的则忠于好莱坞一线演员。多年来，大部分奢侈品广告都选用这些一线演员，请他们担任品牌大使。不太出名的面孔的吸引力取决于，品牌是否认为某张新面孔最能代表自己，是否渴望得到只有圈内人才认识的头排名人或广告模特所传达的那种优越感。

The mechanics of these agreements — how designers make their casting calls and selections for brand representation — is top secret. But they are always monitoring the film festival circuit and, since the awards season began Sunday with the Governors Awards in Hollywood, they are watching the red carpet, too, and will begin to deluge talent with offers to dress them for premieres and ceremonies.

这些协议的内幕——设计师如何要求试镜和为品牌挑选代言人——是顶级机密。不过，设计师们一直在关注各大电影节。随着周日（11月29日）理事会奖(Governors Awards)拉开好莱坞颁奖季的大幕，他们也在关注红毯，并将开始向某些艺人伸出橄榄枝，表明他们愿意提供参加首映式和典礼的服装。

Casting unknowns can be cost-efficient for everything from advertisements to fashion films, the lavish commercials that are produced with increasing frequency as offshoots of traditional photography campaigns. And while it may be risky, if the brand’s choice proves to be a big hit — it also looks smart.

选用不出名的演员代言能极大节约从广告到时装电影各个方面的成本。时装电影指的是奢华的广告片，作为传统平面广告的衍生物，而今它们的拍摄频率越来越高。虽然这样做可能有点冒险，但是如果一个品牌挑选的代言人后来成了红人，那么这也会显得很明智。

Social media has driven the development, granting brands unprecedented power to communicate their work directly to the customer, and a performer’s social media clout can be considered in the casting call process. Kendall Jenner’s Estée Lauder contract, for instance, was said to have come her way partly because she had 15 million followers on Instagram

社交媒体也推动了这一趋势的发展，让品牌拥有前所未有的与顾客直接交流的能力。演员的社交媒体影响力也成为挑选代言人的一个考虑因素。比如，据说肯德尔·詹纳(Kendall Jenner)能为雅诗兰黛(Estée Lauder)代言的一个原因在于她在Instagram上有1500万粉丝。

By contrast, actresses who appear in Miu Miu’s fall 2015 campaign, including Maddison Brown, Hailey Gates and Mia Goth, have a combined Instagram following of about 38,700. Stacy Martin, the brunette beauty who also is the face of Miu Miu’s new perfume, and the Prada men’s wear model Michael Shannon do not use social media at all.

相比之下，为Miu Miu2015年秋季系列代言的女演员们在Instagram上的粉丝总计约3.87万，包括麦迪逊·布朗(Maddison Brown)、黑莉·盖茨(Hailey Gates)和米娅·戈特(Mia Goth)。Miu Miu新香水的代言人、黑发美女斯塔茜·马丁(Stacy Martin)以及普拉达(Prada)的男装模特迈克尔·香农(Michael Shannon)则完全不用社交媒体。

Miuccia Prada — who since the late ’90s has reserved the roles in Prada men’s wear campaigns for character actors and in Miu Miu campaigns for rising actresses — said actors have the power to humanize fashion and to relate the story behind her seasonal collections.

缪西娅·普拉达(Miuccia Prada)从90年代末开始选用性格男演员为普拉达男装代言，选用新秀女演员为Miu Miu代言。她说，演员能赋予时装人性，阐述每一季服装背后的故事。

“Cinema has always been one of my true interests and passions,” Ms. Prada said. “With Miu Miu, and the men’s, I like to underline the narration of a character, a personal story. The cast of Miu Miu, season by season, is chosen to reinforce the attitude and the idea of the moment.”

普拉达说：“电影一直是我真正感兴趣和热爱的事物之一。在Miu Miu和男装方面，我想强调人物的叙述，讲述一个人的故事。每一季Miu Miu选择的代言人都是为了强调当时的态度和观点。”

Some experts question the power a new face can command in selling fashion.

有些专家质疑新面孔在时装销售上的号召力。

Peter Hess, co-head of the Commercial Endorsement division at Creative Artists Agency, is skeptical about the influence of unknowns in fashion advertising, although he concedes there are “tiers of this work.”

创新艺人经纪公司(Creative Artists Agency)广告支持部联合主管彼得·赫斯(Peter Hess)对不出名的演员在服装广告方面的影响力表示质疑，虽然他也承认，“这份工作有很多层次”。

“Brands engage the finest photographers, hair stylists and makeup designers — and if a budget for an advertising campaign is in the millions, the actors which brands go with usually have a proven track record,” Mr. Hess said. But then he represents influential entertainment professionals, including Julia Roberts, Jennifer Lawrence, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet, Bradley Cooper and Clive Owen.

赫斯说：“品牌需要聘请最好的摄影师、发型师和化妆师。如果一支广告的成本有上百万美元，那么品牌挑选的演员通常具有丰富的经历和经验。”但是之后，他列举了一些具有影响力的娱乐专家，包括朱莉叶·罗伯茨(Julia Roberts)、詹妮弗·劳伦斯(Jennifer Lawrence)、萨拉·杰西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)、妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)、凯特·温斯利特(Kate Winslet)、布拉德利·库珀(Bradley Cooper)和克莱夫·欧文(Clive Owen)。

At Saint Laurent Paris, plum modeling assignments have been reserved for musicians since Hedi Slimane became creative director of the brand in March 2012. He has cast promising players, forgotten rock gods and obscure names from the grunge scene in Los Angeles (where he and the Saint Laurent Paris atelier are based) on the men’s wear runway, in the front row at fashion shows and also for the Saint Laurent Paris seasonal Music Project ad campaign.

自从2012年3月艾迪·斯里曼(Hedi Slimane)开始担任巴黎圣罗兰时装公司(Saint Laurent)的创意总监之后，他把报酬丰厚的模特代言工作留给了音乐人，挑选有前途的乐手、被遗忘的摇滚巨星，以及洛杉矶垃圾摇滚(grunge)场景中一些不为人所知的人物（他和巴黎圣罗兰工作室就在洛杉矶），让他们担任男装秀的模特，坐在时装秀的头排，担任巴黎圣罗兰季节音乐活动和宣传的代言人。

The musicians do evoke the decadent, renegade spirit of Saint Laurent Paris, but Mr. Slimane has also said that he admires them simply “because they know how to move on stage.”

音乐人的确与巴黎圣罗兰颓废叛逆的气质相符，不过斯里曼称，他喜欢音乐人只是“因为他们知道如何在舞台上走步”。

It is true that an unknown has little chance of being captured by the paparazzi brandishing a designer’s latest handbag, which a celebrity brand ambassador is expected to do. But what might make the untried and untested attractive to mega-brands is lack of baggage — be it a rehab stint, Church of Scientology escape plan rumors or a propensity to ghost a former mate or consciously uncouple.

的确，不出名的代言人极少有机会被狗仔队拍到炫耀设计师的最新款手袋，而这是品牌对明星代言人的一种期望。但是没有尝试过或考验过的演员对大品牌的吸引力在于他们没有负面新闻——不管是强制戒毒、传说中的山达基教会(Church of Scientology)解救计划，还是喜欢纠缠或故意疏远前伴侣。

“Many fashion houses go with lesser-known names because someone A-list has the ability to overshadow the designs,” Miceala Erlanger said. She is the Hollywood stylist whose vision was integral in transforming Lupita Nyong’o from an MTV Africa soap opera star to the winner of the best supporting actress Oscar in 2014 for “12 Years A Slave.”

好莱坞造型师米希拉·厄兰格(Miceala Erlanger)说：“很多时装公司选用不太出名的演员是因为有些一线演员会掩盖设计的光彩。”她的设计帮助露皮塔·尼永奥(Lupita Nyong’o)从MTV非洲肥皂剧明星蜕变为2014年奥斯卡最佳女配角奖获得者（凭借《为奴十二年》[12 Years A Slave]）。

In the process, Ms. Erlanger helped Ms. Nyong’o clinch a Miu Miu campaign, as well as become a brand ambassador for Lanc洀攀 Paris, which also has featured star veterans such as Ms. Roberts and Ms. Winslet. Ms. Erlanger believes working with an unknown actor can enhance a brand’s caché. “By picking up-and-coming actors, it appears to the outside viewer that the brand is endorsing them,” she said.

在这个过程中，厄兰格帮助尼永奥得到为Miu Miu代言的一个机会，并成为巴黎兰蔻(Lanc洀攀)的品牌大使。兰蔻也是主要选用资深明星，比如罗伯茨和温斯利特。厄兰格认为，与不出名的演员合作能充实名牌的储备库。她说：“在外人看来，品牌选择有前途的演员是在支持那些演员。”

Dressing an actor who is just breaking into stardom may be a risk for a brand, but history shows that it has led some designers to forge enduring relationships, which, over time, have lent value to their brands and helped them connect with tomorrow’s customer.

为初露头角的演员设计服装对品牌来说也许有些冒险，但是历史表明，这也让有些设计师能与演员达成长久关系，这种关系经过时间的沉淀能增加品牌的价值，帮助品牌与未来的顾客产生联系。

In 1979, Giorgio Armani initiated the practice of working with young actors as promotional partners.

1979年，乔治·阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)开创了聘请年轻演员担任宣传伙伴的做法。