Soon after the first reel of celluloid unspooled in Hollywood, the cocktail shakers began chattering. When Garbo first spoke, in the 1930 film “Anna Christie,” she ordered a drink: “Gimme me a whiskey, ginger ale on the side. And don’t be stingy, baby.”

好莱坞的第一卷电影胶卷开始放映不久，鸡尾酒调酒器就开始晃动了。嘉宝(Garbo)在1930年影片《安娜·克里斯蒂》(Anna Christie)中说的第一句话就是：“给我来一杯威士忌，加点姜汁汽水。别抠门儿，宝贝。”

Mixed drinks loom large in the movies because they can do all sorts of things, and send all kinds of messages. They can establish character, set up a romantic scene, introduce a plot twist, ignite a gag.

调和酒在电影中很是显眼，因为它有很多作用，能传递各种信息。它可以塑造人物，营造浪漫气氛，引出情节转折点或笑点。

Without too much effort it is possible to map out a cocktail trail that wends its way from the earliest silent films to the 21st century with nary a break, not even for Prohibition. Especially not for Prohibition, when America was dry but the movies were soaking wet.

不必太费力，你就能绘制出鸡尾酒的发展图谱，从最早的默片时代到21世纪，没有任何间断，甚至包括禁酒时期。尤其是在禁酒时期，当时的美国滴酒不见，电影里倒是觥筹交错。

This is precisely what the British writers Will Francis and Stacey Marsh have done in “Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology,” a fond survey of more than 150 bibulous scenes, from “Caught in a Cabaret,” a 1914 Mack Sennett film, to last year’s “Grand Budapest Hotel.”

英国作家威尔·弗朗西斯(Will Francis)和斯泰茜·马什(Stacey Marsh)在《电影中的鸡尾酒：电影调酒术图解指南》(Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology)一书中做的正是这件事。该书饶有兴致地研究了150多幕饮酒场景，从1914年麦克·森尼特(Mack Sennett)导演的《侍者》(Caught in a Cabaret)到去年的《布达佩斯大酒店》(Grand Budapest Hotel)。

It’s a big topic. A thoroughgoing treatment of the subject would run to a thousand pages, and an equal number of cocktails. (If you don’t find what you’re looking for in “Cocktails of the Movies,” published last month, you might find it in another new book, “Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets,” by Scott M. Deitche, who doesn’t limit himself to movies but covers some of the same liquid ground.)

这是一个宏大的主题。要详尽地讲述这个主题，需要写上1000页，提到1000种鸡尾酒（如果你在上月出版的《电影中的鸡尾酒》中没有找到你想要的，那么你可以看看另一本新书《黑色鸡尾酒：从黑帮到酒馆到警察到兼烈鸡尾酒》[Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets]。这本书的作者是斯科特·M·戴奇[Scott M. Deitche]，他不是只讲电影中的鸡尾酒，不过提到了一些相关的鸡尾酒）。

Think of movie cocktails as drinkable Oscars, a timeline of supporting performances that chime neatly both with the coming awards season (beginning with the Gotham Independent Film Awards a little over a week from now) and one of the most highly anticipated cocktail moments in recent movie history. In “Spectre,” a runaway hit after two weeks in theaters, Daniel Craig, as James Bond, forgoes his traditional vodka martini with lemon twist. Instead, in a meaningful shared moment with Léa Seydoux, as the brainy and beautiful psychologist Madeleine Swann, he orders a dirty martini, ingredients unstated, although three little skewered olives can be seen in the glass.

你可以把电影中的鸡尾酒看作可以饮用的奥斯卡奖，看作支持表演的时间线，它与即将到来的颁奖季（从大约一周后的哥谭独立电影奖[Gotham Independent Film Awards]开始）和近年电影史上最受期待的一个鸡尾酒时刻完美契合。《007之幽灵党》(Spectre)已上映两周，大受欢迎。丹尼尔·克雷格(Daniel Craig)在片中饰演的詹姆斯·邦德(James Bond)抛弃了他一向喜欢的加柠檬的伏特加马提尼。在与莱娅·塞杜(Léa Seydoux)饰演的聪明迷人的心理学家马德莱纳·斯旺(Madeleine Swann)共度一个重要时刻时，他点的是浑浊马提尼，成分不明，不过能看到玻璃杯中有三个串起来的小橄榄。

It goes down easy. The same can be said for quite a few of the filmic cocktails celebrated in the Francis and Marsh book. I found, when mixing a selection and checking out a film or two on the list, that a good rye Manhattan does wonders to make even the slowest scene glide by.

我可以一直讲下去。弗朗西斯和马什的书中赞美的电影中的好几种鸡尾酒都是这样。我调好一种鸡尾酒，观看榜单上的一两部电影，结果发现，一杯上好的黑麦曼哈顿鸡尾酒真的能创造奇迹，甚至能让最缓慢的场景飞驰而过。

The cocktail is just a gag in “Caught in a Cabaret,” a silent Charlie Chaplin film with funny intertitles by his brother Sydney. In one scene, Mabel Normand, playing a pampered young thing, stands outside her palatial home and, asked by a factotum if there are any orders for the groom, says, “Yes, tell him to mix me a ‘Horse’s Neck.’”

在《侍者》中，鸡尾酒只是一个笑料。这部电影是查理·卓别林(Charlie Chaplin)主演的一部默片，他哥哥西德尼(Sydney)在片中加上了有趣的字幕。在其中一幕里，梅布尔·诺曼德(Mabel Normand)饰演的养尊处优的年轻女子站在她华丽的房子外面，当管家问她要不要给新郎点些什么时（order也有命令的意思——译注），她说，“是的，让他给我调一杯马颈鸡尾酒(Horse’s Neck)。”

The drink is nothing great, only whiskey and ginger ale with a twist of lemon, served in a highball glass, but it doesn’t have to do much here — just raise a laugh. The cocktail itself does not even make an appearance.

这款鸡尾酒没什么特别的，就是威士忌和姜汁麦芽啤酒，再加点儿柠檬，盛放在高球杯里，不过在这里它的做法无关紧要，提到它只是为了引人发笑。鸡尾酒本身甚至没有露面。

It’s quite otherwise with the lovingly prepared Old Fashioned in “Crazy, Stupid, Love.” The cocktail as instrument of seduction has a long cinematic pedigree. So does the romantic lead who’s a dab hand with a cocktail shaker. But Ryan Gosling, a wolf on the prowl, adds a 21st-century, artisanal ingredient to the formula. With practiced hands, before the camera’s leering lens, he drips Angostura bitters on a sugar cube at the bottom of a heavy glass, gently pours two fingers of exquisitely priced bourbon, adds ice with a silver spoon. Then, with surgical precision, he detaches a broad swath of peel from an orange and squeezes it, ever so gently, causing its volatile oils to spray a mist over the surface of the drink. This he presents, like a chalice, to Emma Stone.

在《疯狂愚蠢的爱》(Crazy, Stupid, Love)中，古典鸡尾酒的调制过程则得到精心呈现。鸡尾酒作为一种引诱方式在电影中由来已久。浪漫的主人公是调制鸡尾酒的高手，这也是惯用套路。不过，情场高手瑞恩·戈斯林(Ryan Gosling)在配方中加了一种21世纪手工艺配料。在摄像机倾斜的镜头前，他用灵活的双手，把安戈斯图拉苦汁滴到厚重玻璃杯底的方糖上，轻柔地倒了两指宽昂贵的波本威士忌，用银勺加冰。然后，以外科医生般的精准，割下一条宽宽的橘皮，非常轻柔地挤压，让它易挥发的油汁在鸡尾酒的表面喷出薄雾。然后他像捧着圣杯一样，把这杯鸡尾酒递给了埃玛·斯通(Emma Stone)。

Equally revealing is Jake Gyllenhaal’s signature drink in “Zodiac,” the Aqua Velva. It is a ridiculous concoction, tinted with blue to look like Aqua Velva after-shave, and served, in one of the film’s bar scenes, with a little pink umbrella anchored in a big straw.

在《十二宫杀手》(Zodiac)中，杰克·吉伦哈尔(Jake Gyllenhaal)的标志性鸡尾酒Aqua Velva也同样得到详细展示。它是一种不可以思议的混合物，加有蓝色库拉索酒，看起来像Aqua Velva须后水。上酒的时候，配有一根大吸管，上面插着一把小粉伞。它是在这部电影的诸多酒吧场景的其中一幕中出现的。

Robert Downey Jr., as a tough crime reporter investigating the 1970s Zodiac murders in San Francisco, eyes the drink suspiciously. “This can no longer be ignored,” he says. “What is that you’re drinking?” Mr. Gyllenhaal answers: “It’s an Aqua Velva. You wouldn’t make fun of it if you tried it.”

小罗伯特·唐尼(Robert Downey Jr.)在片中饰演一名调查20世纪70年代旧金山十二宫谋杀案的强硬的刑事案件记者。他充满疑虑地盯着那杯鸡尾酒，说道：“我不能再假装没看见它了。你喝的是什么？”吉伦哈尔回答道：“它叫Aqua Velva鸡尾酒。如果你喝过它，就不会嘲笑它。”

It’s the perfect cocktail for a goofy and guileless former Boy Scout, who drinks it through the straw. It also contains a secondary meaning. It says that Mr. Gyllenhaal’s character, a political cartoonist determined to crack the coded messages sent by the Zodiac Killer, thinks outside the box. His innocent curiosity leads him to connections and clues that jaded investigators ignore. The fact that Mr. Downey takes the Aqua Velva plunge — together, he and Mr. Gyllenhaal polish off a tableful of the drinks — says something about him too.

这款鸡尾酒太适合这位蠢笨诚实的前童子军了。他是用吸管喝的。它还包含着另一层含义：吉伦哈尔饰演的这个角色能跳出固有思维模式。这位政治漫画家下定决心破解十二宫杀手发出的密码信息。他天真的好奇心促使他发现了疲惫不堪的调查者们忽视的联系和线索。而唐尼一口喝下Aqua Velva鸡尾酒，也透露出他的性格。他和吉伦哈尔干掉了满满一桌子这种鸡尾酒。

The book includes, as it must, the Dude’s White Russian (in Dude-speak, a Caucasian) from “The Big Lebowski” and Carrie Bradshaw’s Cosmopolitan in “Sex and the City.” (No room for the Flirtini, alas.) Good taste is not the criterion. If it were, the book would shut the door on the Godzilla of modern mixed-drink movies.

这本书中还提到了（也必须提到）《谋杀绿脚趾》(The Big Lebowski)中主人公Dude的白色俄罗斯鸡尾酒（White Russian：Dude称之为高加索鸡尾酒）以及《欲望都市》(Sex and the City)中凯莉·布拉德肖(Carrie Bradshaw)的大都会鸡尾酒（Cosmopolitan，可惜呀，没给调情鸡尾酒[Flirtini]留点空间）。够不够有品味不是这本书的评价标准。如果是那样的话，这本书就不会提到现代调酒电影中的那部巨作了。

“Cocktail” is its name. Released in 1988, with Tom Cruise as Brian Flanagan, a flashy mixologist on the make, the film is to bartending what “Showgirls” was to pole dancing, a rank embarrassment that survived to become a perverse classic.

那部电影的名字就叫《鸡尾酒》(Cocktail)，1988年上映，汤姆·克鲁斯(Tom Cruise)在其中饰演爱炫技的雄心勃勃的调酒师布莱恩·弗拉纳根(Brian Flanagan)。就像《艳舞女郎》(Showgirls)主要是讲跳钢管舞；这部电影主要是讲调酒，尽管它的类别有些尴尬，但它还是意外地成为一部经典电影。

Along with the cavalcade of bad 1980s hair and worse 1980s music, “Cocktail” encapsulates an egregious mini-era in drink culture, an overheated time when “flair” bartending first emerged, a flamboyant style of mixing that required bartenders to toss shakers in the air and catch them behind their backs.

《鸡尾酒》完全体现了80年代的潮流，里面的发型一个比一个难看，音乐更是难听，但是它浓缩了饮酒文化中一个惊人的小时代，当时“炫技型”调酒刚刚兴起，过于火热，炫技方式包括把摇壶扔到空中，从背后接住。

There are actually only three drinks that the audience sees being mixed: a Red Eye, a daiquiri and a Turquoise Blue, but the film is an encyclopedia of period drinks, most of them shouted out by customers crowding the bar, and too many of them involving peach schnapps: the Cuba Libre, the Alabama Slammer, the Orgasm, the White Fly, the Friar Tuck, the Ding-a-Ling, the Dirty Mother, the Jus d’Amour, and the Death Spasm, which Heywood Gould, the former bartender who wrote the novel “Cocktail,” later said he invented when writing the screenplay for the film. He described it as a mixture of gin, absinthe and Fleischmann’s rye “shaken very cold and thrown down in one shot.” Think of it as the godchild of the Depth Bomb that W. C. Fields drinks at the Black Pussy Cat Cafe in “The Bank Dick.”

实际上，观众在那部电影中只看到三种鸡尾酒的调制过程：红眼鸡尾酒(Red Eye)、得其利鸡尾酒(daiquiri)和蓝色情调(Turquoise Blue)鸡尾酒，不过那部电影是那个时代酒水的百科全书，大部分酒名是拥挤酒吧里的客人们喊出来的，大多含有桃色荷兰烈酒：自由古巴鸡尾酒(Cuba Libre)、阿拉巴马监狱鸡尾酒(Alabama Slammer)、亢奋鸡尾酒(Orgasm)、粉虱鸡尾酒(White Fly)、修道士塔克鸡尾酒(Friar Tuck)、Ding-a-Ling鸡尾酒、坏妈妈鸡尾酒(Dirty Mother)、Jus d’Amour鸡尾酒和死亡痉挛鸡尾酒(Death Spasm)。《鸡尾酒》这本小说的作者、曾经的酒保海伍德·古尔德(Heywood Gould)后来说，死亡痉挛鸡尾酒是他在为这部电影写剧本时发明的。他说，这款鸡尾酒是用杜松子酒、苦艾酒和弗莱施曼黑麦威士忌(Fleischmann’s)调制而成的，“加很多冰摇晃，然后一饮而尽”。你可以把它看作是《银行妙探》(The Bank Dick)中W·C·菲尔茨(W. C. Fields)在黑猫咪咖啡馆(Black Pussy Cat Cafe)喝的深水炸弹鸡尾酒(Depth Bomb)的教子。

We are a long way from the world of “The Thin Man,” and the cocktails that William Powell attacks early in the day. The Bronx, the Martini, the Manhattan — these are the enduring classics that, inevitably, lead to the morning-after scene involving an ice bag on the head. Mr. Francis and Ms. Marsh enshrine the Bronx — gin, vermouth, orange juice — but they could just as well have chosen Powell’s vodka martinis from the original “My Man Godfrey,” from 1936, nearly three decades before Sean Connery, in “Goldfinger,” electrified filmgoers with the immortal words “shaken, not stirred.”

我们离《瘦子》(The Thin Man)的那个时代以及威廉·鲍威尔(William Powell)大清早喝的那些鸡尾酒很遥远。布朗克斯鸡尾酒(Bronx)、马提尼、曼哈顿鸡尾酒——这些永恒的经典一出现，接下来的一幕必然是第二天早上头上放着冰袋的场景。弗朗西斯和马什把布朗克斯鸡尾酒（它是用杜松子酒、苦艾酒[vermouth]和橙汁调制的）奉为神祗，但他们也可以选择1936年原版《我的高德弗里》(My Man Godfrey)中鲍威尔的伏特加马提尼。近30年之后，肖恩·康纳利(Sean Connery)在《007之金手指》(Goldfinger)中用这款鸡尾酒还有那句不朽的台词“摇晃，不要搅动”倾倒了无数影迷。

Hollywood presented the authors with a surplus of material. They might have included Cary Grant’s Gibson in “North by Northwest” (they opt for Bette Davis in “All About Eve”), the Buck’s Fizz in “Top Hat,” the Brandy Flip in “Grand Hotel,” the Black Russian in “Ninotchka.” The list is long, although, oddly enough, there is no evidence of a Manhattan cocktail in the lost 1928 film “Manhattan Cocktail.”

好莱坞给这两位作者提供了数不清的素材。他们还可以加入《西北偏北》(North by Northwest)中加里·格兰特(Cary Grant)的吉布森鸡尾酒（Gibson，而他们选择的是《彗星美人》[All About Eve]中的贝特·戴维斯[Bette Davis]），《礼帽》(Top Hat)中的霸克费兹鸡尾酒(Buck’s Fizz)，《大饭店》(Grand Hotel)中的白兰地霏丽蒲鸡尾酒(Brandy Flip)，以及《妮诺契卡》(Ninotchka)中的黑色俄罗斯鸡尾酒(Black Russian)。这个单子很长，不过，奇怪的是，在令人迷惑的1928年影片《曼哈顿鸡尾酒》(Manhattan Cocktail)中，我们没有看到曼哈顿鸡尾酒的影子。

There are a few fantasy cocktails, too, like the sinisterly childish Moloko Plus from “A Clockwork Orange.” Ingredients have been translated into the world of the possible. The Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster in “The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy” calls for, among other things, “Fallian marsh gas” and “the tooth of an Algolian Suntiger.” In that 2005 film, Sam Rockwell, using all three of his arms, serves it on what looks like a shallow martini glass and lets out a short scream after tossing one down. Hardly surprising, since the effect, the narrator intones, “is like having your brains smashed out by a slice of lemon wrapped around a large gold brick.”

电影中还出现过一些虚构的鸡尾酒，比如《发条橙》(A Clockwork Orange)中邪恶而孩子气的摩洛克+鸡尾酒(Moloko Plus)，它的成分已经流传到了现实世界里。《银河系漫游指南》(The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy)中的泛银河漱口冲击波鸡尾酒(Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster)需要的配料包括“Fallian甲烷”和“奥古林太阳虎(Algolian Suntiger)之牙”。在2005年的这部影片中，山姆·罗克韦尔(Sam Rockwell)用他的三个手臂奉上这杯鸡尾酒，它盛放在一个貌似浅马提尼杯的容器里，倒出来后发出一声短促的尖叫声。不出意料，因为这种效果，讲解员说道：“就像你的脑袋被一块里面裹着金砖的柠檬砸碎了”。

One fictional drink is sorely missed, even if it is undrinkable. In “The Nutty Professor,” the title character’s alter ego, Buddy Love, played by Jerry Lewis, steps up to the bar and orders an Alaskan Polar Bear Heater. Here’s how it’s made, Buddy explains to the puzzled bartender: “Two shots of vodka, a little rum, some bitters and a smidgen of vinegar … a shot of vermouth, a shot of gin, a little brandy, lemon peel, orange peel, cherry, some more Scotch. Now mix it nice, then pour it into a tall glass.”

还有一款虚构的鸡尾酒十分令人怀念，虽然它是不能喝的。在《肥佬教授》(The Nutty Professor)中，杰里·刘易斯(Jerry Lewis)饰演的主人公的分身Buddy Love走到吧台，点了一杯阿拉斯加北极熊鸡尾酒(Alaskan Polar Bear Heater)。Buddy是这样对困惑的酒保解释它的调制方法的：“两注伏特加，一点朗姆酒，一些苦味酒，一点醋……一注苦艾酒，一注杜松子酒，一点白兰地，柠檬皮，橘子皮，樱桃，再来点苏格兰威士忌。然后把混合均匀，倒入高玻璃杯中。”

After listening impassively, the bartender asks, “You going to drink this here, or are you going to take it home and rub it on your chest?”

那位酒吧面无表情地听完之后问道：“你是要在这儿喝，还是拿回家往胸上擦？”