The image of a police officer is spray-painted on a wall at Sohofama, a Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong that sticks to its blue-collar roots with home-style dishes served on outdoor wooden tables and benches. The picture pays homage to both a founder’s father, a local officer, and the establishment’s location at PMQ, a 1950s “Police Married Quarters” that once housed hundreds of families and is now home to dozens of restaurants, studios and boutiques run by local artisans and designers, including Vivienne Tam.
“料理农务”(Sohofama)是一家香港家常菜中餐馆，露天的木头桌椅保持了蓝领作风，其中一面墙上喷绘着一个警察的肖像，这是为了纪念一位创始人的父亲，他也是一位当地的官员，此外也是为了纪念“元创方”(PMQ)的原址。20世纪50年代，这里曾是“已婚警察宿舍”，住有几百个警察家庭，如今这里开着数十个餐馆、工作室和精品店，由本地艺术家与设计师们经营，其中还包括谭燕玉(Vivieene Tam)。

The revitalized PMQ complex — two midrise buildings set around a large central courtyard — takes up a whole city block on the western edge of Soho, a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood where art galleries and French bistros are next to working-class shops and apartments. The postwar complex sat vacant for decades but reopened last April as a center for art and culture after a renovation of 400 million Hong Kong dollars (more than $50 million). Its 100-plus units have been snapped up by tenants who have quickly made PMQ one of the most popular scenes in town.
重生的“元创方”是围绕着一个大中心广场的两栋中等高度的建筑，它位于Soho区西部边缘，占据了一整片街区，这是一个品味迅速提升的地方，画廊和法餐厅混杂在工薪阶层的公寓及店铺之间。这里修建于“二战”之后，闲置了几十年，去年四月经重修后作为艺术与文化中心重新开放，修缮费约为4亿港币（合5千万多美元）。楼中的100多个单元被抢租一空，租户们很快令“元创方”成为香港最受欢迎的一景。
The original structures, including their large balconies, were retained, said William To, the center’s creative director.
元创方的设计师陶威廉(William To)说，许多当初的建筑特征都得以保留，比如巨大的阳台。
“At that time, people had outdoor kitchens and communal areas where families ate together,” he said. “It was a close community.”
“当时这里有户外厨房和公共区域，几家人可以在一起吃饭，”他说，“这是一个关系亲密的社区。”
The new PMQ preserves that feeling of openness through the generous use of shared and alfresco spaces. The courtyard has been covered in a glass canopy so that it can be used for large-scale art installations, fairs, festivals and popular weekend food nights with plenty of beer and street snacks.
新的“元创方”采用大量共享与户外空间，保持了这种开放性。院子用玻璃顶棚遮蔽，因此可以用来陈设大规模艺术装置，举办艺术展、艺术节，以及受欢迎的周末美食之夜，售卖啤酒和路边摊食品。
Since the heritage site’s reopening, these establishments — from cozy bakeries to high-end restaurants — have joined a buzzing dining scene in Hong Kong, a city with nearly 14,000 food outlets, 88 Michelin stars sparkling among 64 restaurants, high rents and some of the world’s pickiest eaters.
这里的餐饮业从舒适的面包房到高级餐厅应有尽有，自“元创方”重开以来，它们也迅速融入了香港繁荣的美食景观。这座城市有近14000家饭馆，88颗米其林之星在64个高档饭馆门前闪耀，不时有世界上最挑剔的食客大驾光临。
Sohofama focuses on organic and — as far as is possible in this concrete jungle — local ingredients. While the restaurant makes a few forays into fusion cuisine — chorizo fried rice and black truffle “xiao long bao,” soup dumplings — it mostly serves simple, homey dishes. Lunch is about 114 Hong Kong dollars a person, or $15 at 7.60 Hong Kong dollars to the U.S. dollar; dinner is about 190 dollars. Most diners order small dishes to share: chilled cucumber slices, vegetable rice, fried fish with corn sauce, sweet and sour pork, scallion pancakes, buns stuffed with minced meat and a whole crab in a clay pot. At night, a mix of artsy residents and visitors sip cocktails infused with sour plums, orange peel and hibiscus flowers.
在这座钢筋水泥丛林里，“料理农务”还是尽量使用有机食品与本地原料。餐厅尝试了若干融合菜肴，诸如西班牙辣香肠炒饭和黑松露小笼包、馄饨，但主要还是提供简单的家常菜。午饭每人约需114港元（按7.60港元兑换1美元，约合15美元）；晚饭每人约需190港元。大部分食客都会点些小菜来分食，比如黄瓜片、蔬菜饭、玉米酱炸鱼、叉烧肉、葱饼、肉夹馍和砂锅蟹。晚间常常会有颇具艺术气质的本地居民与游客特来品尝掺加了酸梅、橙皮与芙蓉花的鸡尾酒。
Hong Kong’s British colonial heritage permeates Aberdeen Street Social, a two-story bar and restaurant that is one of several collaborations around town between Jason Atherton, a Michelin-starred British chef, and Yenn Wong, a Singaporean heiress and hotelier. Their cocktails include the most appalling British puns: Just Beet-Root to Me, Bitters & Twisted, Pretty Fly for a Mai Tai and Pot Pouring Ketel Black.
Aberdeen Street Social这样的地方颇具香港英殖民时期的遗风，这是一个两层的酒吧兼餐厅，是英国米其林星级厨师杰森·阿瑟顿(Jason Atherton)与新加坡女继承人兼酒店经营者Yenn Wong合作的结晶，两人在香港其他地点还有若干合作餐厅。这里的鸡尾酒名字里包含了最吓人的英国双关语：“Just Beet-Root to Me”（意为“对我粗鲁”与“甜菜根”谐音——译注）、“Bitters & Twisted”（必打士与变态），“Pretty Fly for a Mai Tai”（Mai Tai酒里的漂亮苍蝇）和“Pot Pouring Ketel Black”（波特浇黑坎特）。
The terrace has a casual vibe, serving upscale gastro-pub grub: truffle popcorn, flatbreads, savory pies and a salad made with Peking duck. But the upstairs restaurant is a full-on dining experience — with French-speaking staff and fine wines — that impressed even my picky husband, a chef. In one standout dish, a duck breast (266 dollars) swam in a blood-red beetroot sauce thickened with honey and spice. A bite into what looked innocuously like a glazed cherry turned out to be a duck heart on a spear, a happy surprise.
楼下充满休闲气息，提供高档酒吧美食：松露爆米花、小面包干、风味派和北京烤鸭沙拉。但楼上的餐厅就完全是正餐的天下——侍者说法语、供应高档红酒——我丈夫是一位颇为挑剔的大厨，见此也颇为触动。一道鸭胸肉（266港元）格外美味，鸭肉浸在浓稠血红、混有蜂蜜与香料的甜菜根酱汁中。旁边配有看似完全无害，宛如玻璃樱桃的装饰，吃一口才知道是鸭心，堪称意外惊喜。
Visitors should be warned that any request for a hot caffeinated beverage on a weekday morning will be met with a bleary-eyed barista just getting to work. Bread n Butter, a crepe place inside a pink-festooned women’s boutique, manages to get going by 11 a.m. By noon, you can have coffee from fresh-roasted beans at Café Life, pastries at the hippie-ish Alice Wild Luscious and homemade bread at Levain Bakery.
游客要注意的是，在工作日的上午点任何含咖啡因的热饮都有可能遭到刚来上班的侍者白眼。“面包与黄油”(Bread n Butter)是一家精致的小店，隐藏在一家专售点缀粉红花边的女装店之内，上午11点就开张了。到中午时分，你可以在“咖啡生活”(Café Life)享受新鲜的现磨咖啡，在嬉皮风格的“Alice Wild Luscious”享受糕点，在“Levain Bakery”享受家制面包。
PMQ gets livelier later in the day, especially on the weekends. On a recent weekday afternoon Isono, a 4,000-square-foot tapas restaurant, was filled with creative types tapping away on laptops. From noon to midnight, customers snack on sharing platters of Ibérico ham, pheasant terrine, duck rillettes and, for visiting Americans, passable sliders. Serious epicures head upstairs to the adjoining fine dining restaurant, Vasco.
下午时分，元创方才会变得更有活力，特别是在周末。最近的一个下午，占地4000平方英尺的小吃店Isono里挤满了敲笔记本的创意人士。从下午到午夜，他们用公用的大盘子吃着伊比利克火腿、砂锅野鸡、鸭肉酱以及对于美国游客而言味道尚可的迷你汉堡。认真的老饕们会上楼，到高档的Vasco餐厅享用大餐。
Mr. To demurred when asked which restaurant was his favorite. But he said even the pricier ones are doing well.
被问到自己最喜欢哪家餐厅，陶先生表示无法回答。但他说，就算最便宜的餐馆也很棒。
“They are constantly full and now it’s difficult to get a table on the weekends, even for us,” he said.
“那些地方经常满座，现在到了周末，就连我们也很难订到位子，”他说。