St.-Ouen. The name made me shudder. Whenever visitors asked me to take them to that vast set of flea markets just north of the Paris city line, I did my best to divert them elsewhere.
圣图安(St.-Ouen)，这个名字让我不寒而栗。无论什么时候，但凡有游客请我带他们去巴黎北郊这片庞杂的跳蚤市场，我都会千方百计劝他们换个地方。
For me, getting to the Marché aux Puces de Paris/St.-Ouen was exhausting. It meant a ride on the No. 4 Métro line to the Porte de Clignancourt in the 18th Arrondissement and 15 minutes of jostling through a bazaar of cheap clothing, fabrics, leather goods, trinkets, cellphone covers, pots and pans.
对我来说，光是抵达巴黎跳蚤市场（即圣图安市场）就让人筋疲力尽。它意味着你得先坐地铁4号线来到第18区的科里尼安古尔门(Porte de Clignancourt)站，然后在一条两侧摆满便宜衣服、布料、皮革制品、小工艺品、手机壳、锅碗瓢盆等杂物的路上穿行15分钟，才终于到达。
St.-Ouen is so big (1,700 dealers in 14 markets spread over 750,000 square feet) that the only way to get around is with a map. Even then, I tended to end up in cul-de-sacs of oppressive, overpriced crystal chandeliers, marble mantel pieces, gilt-framed mirrors and Italian floor lamps in the shape of palm trees.
圣图安市场真大（在75万平方英尺的空间里，共有14个分市场，1700家店铺），若想顺利游览一遍，必须带上地图。但即使有了地图，我还是差点走进死胡同，陷入昂贵水晶吊灯、大理石壁炉台、镀金框镜子和棕榈树造型的意大利落地灯的包围之中。
Then there was the bargain issue. There was a time when St.-Ouen was a place where tourists could hope to outwit the dealers. Decades ago, the columnist Art Buchwald wrote that it was a “hodgepodge of taste” where “one may find some precious thing the rest have overlooked, or he may have his pocket picked.”
随之而来的是砍价问题。曾几何时，圣图安市场的游客可能比卖家更精明。数十年前，专栏作家阿特·巴奇沃德(Art Buchwald)曾撰文写道，它是个“品味齐全的大杂烩”，顾客“说不定能找到别人视而不见的珍宝，但也可能会被偷走钱包”。
The part about finding some precious thing (cheap, that is) became much harder as rents soared, the dollar sank, dealers catered to wealthy foreigners and the antiques market turned digital. Having your pocket picked, however, was never a challenge.
现在，找到好东西（即便宜东西）更难了，因为摊位租金飞涨，美元贬值，卖家都转而开始吸引富裕的外国游客，古董市场也越发数字化。然而顾客仍有可能遭到扒窃，这一点并无改变。

So I preferred to take visitors to Puces de Vanves, the small, messy, open-air flea market on the opposite end of town, where bargains were still to be had. I showed them the proof: a 2-euro silver-plated gravy boat in the shape of a swan and a 10-euro cache of mismatched cut-crystal cordial glasses ($2.40 and $12, at $1.21 to the euro). I introduced them to the button man with thousands of Bakelite buttons sewn on to their original cards, and the woman with the collection of 10-euro cuff links.
所以我宁可带着游客到旺福跳蚤市场(Puces de Vanves)，它位于巴黎市的另一边，是个杂乱的小型露天跳蚤市场，在那儿仍然可以买到划算的宝贝。我向他们展示了如下证据：一只镀银的天鹅造型肉汁盘2欧元，一组不成套的切割水晶甜酒杯10欧元。按照1欧元等于1.21美元计算，这两样物品的价格约合2.4美元和12美元。我推荐了一名纽扣匠，他家店里有数千只树胶纽扣，都缝在创意十足的卡片上，还有一名女店主，她家的各式袖扣只卖10欧元。
I also logged on to vide-greniers.org, the website that announces weekly street markets. Vide-greniers literally means “empty the attics”; they range from residents participating in a neighborhood fair to itinerant professional dealers.
我也会登录vide-greniers.org，该网站的名字意为“空荡荡的阁楼”，上面发布每周的街头集市清单。参与者从参加社区集市的本地居民到巡回叫卖的专业卖家，不一而足。
Then, over the last two years, St.-Ouen has become cool again, as a go-to weekend destination for young Parisians as well as foreign tourists. And not only for treasure-hunting.
然而在过去的两年中，圣图安市场再次酷炫起来，成为巴黎年轻一代和外国游客周末逛街的好去处。而且，来这里不仅仅是为了淘到宝贝。
The Iranian-born cameraman Darius Khondji made the flea market sparkle in Woody Allen’s 2011 crowd-pleaser, “Midnight in Paris.” (In case you don’t remember, Inez dips in and out of the stalls of Marché Paul-Bert-Serpette Puces de Paris St.-Ouen, the largest of the markets; Gil wanders off and makes the acquaintance of a French antiques dealer named Gabrielle who shares his passion for the Lost Generation. The message is clear: Anyone can go to Paris and find serendipity, beautiful objects and a soul mate.)
在伍迪·艾伦2011年深受欢迎的电影《午夜巴黎》(Midnight in Paris)中，伊朗出生的摄像师达利尔斯·康迪(Darius Khondji)通过镜头，让这座跳蚤市场更加光彩夺目。（不记得了？那我提示一下：在剧中，吉尔与伊内兹在巴黎圣图安的保罗-伯特-赛尔贝德市场逛街，吉尔偶然结识了法国古董商加布里埃，在后者的引荐之下，领略了迷惘一代的激情生活。电影传达的信息很清晰：人人都可以来巴黎寻找内心的宁静、漂亮的物品和灵魂的伴侣。）
I discovered that it’s as easy as pie to get straight to Rue Paul Bert, one of the main streets of St.-Ouen, from the Left Bank north through Montmartre on the Right Bank via the No. 85 bus. It’s a lovely way to see Paris. As for pickpockets, warnings throughout the market and armies of both local police officers and private security guards serve as deterrents.
我发现直接去保罗伯特大街易如反掌。这是圣图安市场的主路之一，从左岸北到右岸的蒙马特，可乘坐85路公交车顺利抵达。这是一种可爱的巴黎观光方式。至于扒窃行为，市场里到处都贴着警告信息，本地警察与私人安保公司都是可靠的震慑力量。
Last year, the European furniture designer Habitat spearheaded a move to transform a spacious courtyard of old ateliers and warehouses on Rue des Rosiers across the street from Paul-Bert-Serpette into soaring, deluxe spaces that look more like small museums than retail shops.
去年，欧洲家具设计商爱必居(Habitat)率先来到这片市场，入驻保罗-伯特-赛尔贝德市场对面蔷薇街上一座宽敞的院子，将里面的老作坊与仓库改建为高耸的奢华屋宇。而今，它看上去更像一座博物馆，而非家具分销店。
Habitat 1964, as the 4,300-square-foot installation is called in honor of the year the company was founded, plays cool jazz and showcases furnishings no longer in production, including its 1977 Mushroom lamp and 1993 Altona desk. Beware the prices: a rare Pierre Paulin couch in sky blue was recently selling for 15,000 euros.
这家店坐拥4300平方英尺的内部空间，名叫“爱必居1964”，以此向公司的诞生之年致敬。店内播放着冷爵士乐，展览着业已绝版的家居产品，包括1977年的蘑菇屋(Mushroom)灯具和1993年的阿尔托纳(Altona)书桌。注意价格：一套珍稀的天蓝色皮埃尔宝兰(Pierre Paulin)沙发最新售价为15000欧元。
Another pioneer is L’Eclaireur, which opened its seventh Paris outlet in a former chandelier repair atelier here. It offers high-end contemporary furniture, sculptures and vintage haute couture clothing. Galerie Gam next door specializes in 20th-century French furniture design from the 1950s through the 1970s; Le White, in objects in, bien sûr, white.
另一家先锋店是“时尚侦察兵”(L’Eclaireur)，这是该品牌在巴黎的第七家分店，那里曾是一家吊灯修理作坊。它供应高端的当代家具、雕塑与经典高级时装。隔壁的加姆画廊(Galerie Gam)专营20世纪的法国家居设计，包含20世纪50年代至70年代的作品。还有一家店叫“白色”，当然了，专营白色的家具。
Also in the courtyard, Mademoiselle Steinitz’s industrial warehouse mixes rare furniture, fantastical sculptures, contemporary photography and formal gowns. On a recent visit, a Viennese Arts and Crafts couch with two armchairs and two side chairs was 53,000 euros; a one-of-a-kind 1910 butterfly desk and chairs by the Belle Époque fashion designer Paul Poiret cost 300,000 euros.
院子里还有一家“司坦妮小姐”(Mademoiselle Steinitz)，它的库房里琳琅满目，包括珍稀的家具、梦幻的雕塑、当代摄影作品与正装礼服。最近我逛过他们店，记得一套“维也纳艺术与工艺”品牌的沙发配两个扶手椅及两个直背单椅，售价53000欧元；一台1910年的独一无二的蝴蝶书桌和椅子，由美好年代(Belle Époque)的时尚大师保罗·珀瑞特(Paul Poiret)设计，售价30万欧元。
Nearby, three small early-20th-century houses on Rue Paul Bert are musts for lookers who may not be buyers. Un Singe en Hiver, covered with wisteria and ivy at No. 6, features an inner courtyard with old stone crockery, a stone ostrich and antlers in a bowl. Sylvain Seron, who owns the space with his wife, Sylvie, will be eager to explain the history of the objects, including the construction of long metal tables from 19th-century industrial water tanks.
附近的保罗伯特大街上，有三座20世纪早期的房屋堪称必游之地，哪怕不买他们的东西。“冬天的猴子”(Un Singe en Hiver)位于这条大街的6号，墙上缀满紫藤花与常青藤，内部的庭院里有古老的石餐具、石鸵鸟和放在碗里的鹿角。这家店铺的主人是西尔万·塞隆(Sylvain Seron)和妻子赛尔薇(Sylvie)，他们会热切地向你介绍每件物品的历史，比如，那些金属长桌是由19世纪的工业水槽改造而成的。
Up a stone staircase at La Petite Maison at No. 10, François Casal also loves conversation, so much so that if you stay long enough he may offer you a glass of Champagne in a heavy crystal goblet. Ask him about the zinc-topped, marble-based bar with inlaid mother-of-pearl at the entrance.
踏上大街10号“珀蒂特”(La Petite Maison)的石阶，你会发现店主弗朗索瓦·卡萨尔(François Casal)特爱聊天。如果你待的时间够长，他会用沉甸甸的水晶高脚杯倒一杯香槟递给你。跟他聊些什么呢？不妨谈谈这座酒吧那镀锌的门楣、铺地的大理石和镶嵌着珍珠母的大门。
My least favorite shop of the trio is Colonial Concept at No. 8, although it is a taxidermist’s delight, with more than a dozen stuffed peacocks, zebra heads, a stuffed leopard and a stuffed lion lying on its side; 4,500 euros will buy you a bearskin rug. Feather headdresses, white corals, polished fossils, a partial giraffe, assorted skulls, lamps made of ostrich eggs — all make it difficult for the environmentally correct visitor to embrace. Photographs are forbidden; the chilly welcome makes you wonder whether it wants customers at all.
三家店铺之中我最不喜欢的是8号的“殖民概念”(Colonial Concept)，尽管它是兽皮师的最爱。店里陈列着十几只孔雀标本和斑马头，墙边摆放着猎豹和狮子填充标本。4500欧元可以买到一条熊皮毯。羽毛头巾、白珊瑚、打磨光亮的化石、一只残缺的长颈鹿、分类整齐的动物头骨、鸵鸟蛋制成的台灯，凡此种种都让环保爱好者难以接受。店内禁止拍照。店员的服务态度也不热情，令人怀疑他们是否根本不欢迎顾客的到来。
St.-Ouen has become a better bad place to eat. For a snack or light lunch, La Buvette des Tartes Kluger in what was once a brick factory in the Habitat courtyard offers Kluger’s wide assortment of homemade sweet and savory pies; lunch can be eaten on picnic tables outside.
圣图安已经成为饕餮胜地。想品尝小吃或快餐，可以去爱必居院子里的La Buvette des Tartes Kluger餐厅，店址由昔日的砖厂改建而成，供应家常制作的甜食和开胃馅饼，品种丰富，也可以在屋外的野餐桌上享用午餐。
Since 2012, there is also Ma Cocotte, a high-ceilinged, two-level brasserie designed by Philippe Starck. With several small dining rooms and two large terraces, it screams new, a contrast to the flea market’s warrens of alleys. Without sufficient insulation, it also screams loud. The restaurant, which offers everything from caviar and foie gras to cheeseburgers and fish and chips, is open evenings during the week, even when the flea market is closed.
2012年，这里有了一家“马可可特”(Ma Cocotte)，这家占地两层的啤酒餐厅天花板很高，由菲利普·斯达克(Philippe Starck)设计。包含几个小餐室、两个大露台，簇新簇新的，与跳蚤市场的陋巷对比鲜明。由于没有足够的隔音设施，餐厅内也很喧闹。供应各种美食，包括鱼子酱、鹅肝酱、芝士堡、炸鱼和薯片，从周一到周日每天晚上开放营业，哪怕是跳蚤市场歇业的时候。
There are also the old-timers, like Café Paul Bert for a reliable steak frites on Rue Paul Bert, and Le P’tit Landais on Rue des Rosiers for a slab of foie gras and green salad. A two-course lunch for two with wine at either place will cost around 35 euros, one of the best bargains at St.-Ouen.
此地也有老字号，比如保罗伯特大街上的保罗伯特餐厅，供应的牛排加炸薯条值得信赖，而蔷薇街上的Le P’tit Landais则供应美味的鹅肝酱和蔬菜沙拉。两道菜的双人午餐包含酒，在这两家餐厅花费都是35欧元左右，在圣图安市场，算是最划算的了。
In the past two years, about 50 shops have opened in Paul-Bert-Serpette, many by younger dealers. Mid-20th-century furniture, lighting and decorative arts in modern, unadorned spaces are popular, trendy and pricey.
在过去的两年中，保罗-伯特-赛尔贝德市场内开张了大概50家新店铺，店主大都是年轻一代。店铺多是极简风格的房屋搭配20世纪中期的现代家具与照明系统，红火、时尚而昂贵。
Last spring, the Parisian media magnate Jean-Cyrille Boutmy bought Paul-Bert-Serpette. He has already implemented measures to guarantee the authenticity of the market’s objects and is planning to spruce up the site.
去年春天，巴黎媒体大亨让-西里尔·布特米(Jean-Cyrille Boutmy)买下了保罗-伯特-赛尔贝德。他实施措施保障市场内所售物品的正宗，并打算把它整饬一新。
Cyril Aouizerate, one of the founders of the Mama Shelter hotel in Belleville, in the 20th Arrondissement, is investing 40 million euros in a hotel that will open at St.-Ouen in 2016. To be called M.O.B., the 350-room hotel will include a cultural center with a bookstore, meditation rooms, an open-air movie theater and a vegetarian restaurant serving organic, local produce.
贝尔维尔妈妈庇护所(Mama Shelter)酒店的创始人之一西里尔·奥泽拉特(Cyril Aouizerate)投资4千万欧元在第20区建造一家新酒店，2016年将在圣图安开业。它的名字叫M.O.B，有350个客房，文化中心内有书店、冥想室、露天音乐剧场和素食餐厅，供应本地有机农产品。
For visitors who want to shop as well as look, all is not lost. Here is a rundown of some of my affordable favorites (or at least where good value can be found).
那些购物与观光并重的游客也不会错过什么。我列了个大纲，下列店铺的东西都不贵（或至少是优质的）。
The perfect scarf: vintage Hermès scarves, many of them decades-old and in the softest of silks, start at 160 euros at Le Monde du Voyage in Marché Serpette. Helen and Alain Zisul also offer a selection of perfectly preserved Louis Vuitton trunks.
完美的丝巾：赛尔贝德市场的“世界旅游”(Le Monde du Voyage)店有经典的爱马仕丝巾，用最柔软的丝绸制造而成，其中许多有数十年历史，价格60欧元起。店主海伦和阿兰·芝萨尔(Helen and Alain Zisul)也有保存完美的LV系列行李箱。
Paintings: Post-Cubist gouaches in oak frames by the little-known painter Jacques Marly (1885-1965) start at 950 euros. Marly painted only for pleasure during his life; his grandniece Josette Revellin has begun to sell a few at a time at Marché Serpette.
绘画：橡木画框装裱的前立体主义水粉画，作者是鲜为人知的画家雅克·马尔礼(Jacques Marly，1885-1965)，价格950欧元起。马尔礼一生作画只为自娱，他的侄孙女乔赛特·瑞福林(Josette Revellin)在赛尔贝德市场偶尔出售几幅他的画作。
Old kitchenware: Call on François Bachelier at Bachelier Antiquités at Marché Paul Bert for enamel scales, heavy copper pots, enameled metal animal prize medallions, tin molds, advertising signs, kitchen utensils, southwestern French pottery jugs and pitchers and winemaking paraphernalia. At 350 euros, the three-foot-high, cast-iron apparatus in fire-engine red to cork wine bottles was a steal.
怀旧厨具：去保罗-伯特市场的“巴舍利耶古董”(Bachelier Antiquités)店寻访店主弗朗索瓦·巴舍利耶(François Bachelier)，赏鉴珐琅秤、沉甸甸的铜锅、搪瓷动物奖章、锡模、广告牌、厨具、西南法国的陶罐、水罐及全套造酒设备。有一套三英尺高的火红色铸铁装置，功能是用软木塞塞住瓶口，售价才350欧元，简直是白捡。
Old paper: Take a detour to Paul Maurel in Marché Vernaison at St.-Ouen. For 35 years, the shop has offered old travel posters, maps and flower and animal prints.
旧纸：到圣图安市场威尔内森市场的“保罗摩瑞尔”(Paul Maurel)店逛一圈。35年来，这家店铺一直在供应古老的旅行明信片、地图、花朵和动物图案印刷品。
Costume jewelry: If you’re longing for native English speakers, also in the Marché Vernaison is Au Grenier de Lucie. Jason and Heidi Ellis gave up their jobs as sports coaches, sold their London home to move to Paris and opened up a vintage jewelry and accessories shop five years ago. If you’re not tempted by the alligator handbags, try a rhinestone tiara.
人造珠宝：如果你渴望遇见母语是英语的人，就去威尔内森市场的Au Grenier de Lucie。五年前，店主杰森和海蒂·艾利斯(Jason and Heidi Ellis)放弃了运动教练的工作，卖掉了伦敦的房子，搬到巴黎，开了这家古董珠宝和饰品店。如果你对鳄鱼皮手袋兴味索然，就试试水钻头冠吧。
Old postcards and photographs: Take another detour up an escalator to the Marché Dauphine and call on Philippe Rault just inside the entrance. Try out his stereoscopes for a look at early 3-D. And at 15 euros apiece, you might walk away with the perfect gift: a 60-year-old aerial photo of a Paris neighborhood. If you’re not worn out, head into the main Dauphine area for some of the market’s best bargains.
老照片和明信片：再绕个路，乘坐向上的扶梯去王妃市场拜访“飞利浦·罗尔特”(Philippe Rault)，这家店就在市场大门内。试用一下他家的立体镜，看看早期的3D景观。只需15欧元，你就可买走一件完美的礼物：有六十年历史的巴黎街区航拍照。如果你还没累坏，可以走进地位显要的王妃区，有些东西在这儿买特别划算。
But if such a singular adventure sounds exhausting, hire a guide to do all the work — and price-negotiating — for you. Henry Personnaz, a French interior designer, has made a hobby of giving small private tours of St.-Ouen. He can customize them to suit your tempo and your taste for any object — from a 19th-century oil painting to an Art Deco silver table setting.
但是，如果这种孤身寻宝听上去很累人，不妨请个导游包揽一切，他们还会帮你讨价还价。法国室内设计师亨利·波桑纳斯(Henry Personnaz)有个小小的雅好，就是在圣图安担任私人伴游。他可以根据你的喜好和品味选购旅行纪念品，包括19世纪的油画和装饰艺术风格的银餐具。
If you want a brasher, nonstop, more American approach, contact Rachel Kaplan. She loves to show you what she calls “the deals”; she hates being interrupted.
如果你喜欢便捷、直接、更加美国的旅程，可联系瑞秋·卡普兰(Rachel Kaplan)。她喜欢带你逛她所谓的“好买卖”；讨厌被人打断。
“You know what I call the flea market?” she told a mother, daughter and grandmother on a private tour. “The Louvre — except you can go shopping.”
“你知道我把这片跳蚤市场叫做什么吗？”在一次私人伴游中，她对一个由母亲、女儿和外婆组成的旅游团说。“卢浮宫啊。而且还能买东西。”
Some may call that the perfect Paris outing.
或许会有人觉得，这就是完美的巴黎之旅。
IF YOU GO
旅行指南
Hours are Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, visit www­.marcheauxpuces-saintouen­.com; maps are available at the St.-Ouen tourism office. Guides include Henry Personnaz (parisfleavip­.com) and Rachel Kaplan (contact­@frenchlinks­.com).
市场内店铺开放时间为每周六上午9点至下午6点，周日上午10点至下午6点，周一上午11点至下午5点。更多信息可登陆网站www­.marcheauxpuces-saintouen­.com；圣图安旅游办公室提供地图。导游包括亨利·波桑纳斯(parisfleavip­.com)和瑞秋·卡普兰(contact­@frenchlinks­.com)。
WEBSITES IN ENGLISH
英文网站：
L’Eclaireur, leclaireur.com/en.
时尚侦察兵，leclaireur.com/en.
Mademoiselle Steinitz, mademoisellesteinitz­.com.
司坦妮小姐，mademoisellesteinitz­.com.
Un Singe en Hiver, unsingenhiver­.com.
冬天的猴子，unsingenhiver­.com.
Le Monde du Voyage, lemondeduvoyage­.com/defaultan.htm.
世界旅游，lemondeduvoyage­.com/defaultan.htm.
Paul Maurel, poster-paul.com.
保罗摩瑞尔，poster-paul.com.
Au Grenier de Lucie, augrenierdelucie­.com.
Au Grenier de Lucie饰品店, augrenierdelucie­.com.
WEBSITES IN FRENCH
法文网站：
Paul-Bert—Serpette, paulbert­-serpette.com.
保罗-波特-赛尔贝德市场, paulbert­-serpette.com.
Habitat 1964, habitat.fr­/vintage.
爱必居1964, habitat.fr­/vintage.
Galerie Gam, galeriegam.fr.
加姆画廊, galeriegam.fr.a
La Petite Maison, lesmerveillesdebabellou­.com.
珀蒂特，lesmerveillesdebabellou­.com.
Colonial Concept, francoisdaneck­.com.
殖民概念, francoisdaneck­.com.
La Buvette des Tartes Kluger, tarteskluger.com.
La Buvette des Tartes Kluger餐厅，tarteskluger.com.
Bachelier Antiquités, bachelier­-antiquites.com.
巴舍利耶古董，bachelier­-antiquites.com.