The last decade has been a real roller-coaster ride for Greece. The country was on a high when it went on a spending spree to host the 2004 Olympics. Several years later Greece was begging for a bailout. Athens was hit especially hard by the global financial crisis: Storefronts and residential buildings were shuttered; young people returned to rural villages, unable to find work.
在过去的十年里，希腊真实地经历了一把如过山车般跌宕起伏的经济。2004年时挥金如土举办奥运会的繁华景象尚在眼前，几年后希腊却只能四处乞求别国的救助。全球金融危机对雅典的冲击尤其剧烈，商店、住宅人去楼空，年轻人因为找不到工作纷纷回到乡下的家中。

But crisis can breed creativity, and while all is not completely sunny -- as evidenced by the car bomb in the city this week -- the aura of gloom is clearing. There are new organic grocery stores in neighborhoods like Syntagma Square, where grand hotels and fur boutiques have long reigned. Coffee and cocktail joints are bringing buzz to an area near Agia Irini Square that was dominated by a languishing garment industry. Homegrown fashion brands, including Dimitris Petrou and Dea Rosa, have taken over spaces left vacant by high-end names. The royal family just moved back to Athens after decades in exile.

雅典旅游攻略不过危机也能催生创新。雅典城的天空虽然还没有完全放晴（最近发生的汽车炸弹事件便是明证），但是笼罩四周的阴霾正在逐渐散去。像在宪法广场(Syntagma Square)周边这种一直是高档酒店、皮毛精品店统治的地区，新出现了一些有机食品店。埃瑞尼·阿吉亚广场(Agia Irini Square)地区也开始有了咖啡和鸡尾酒吧，为这片曾经是日渐衰败的服装业占据主导地位的地区带来了勃勃生机。包括Dimitris Petrou和Dea Rosa等在内的本地时装品牌已经填补了高端大牌撤离后留下的空白。皇室成员在经历了数十年逃亡生涯后，不久前也搬回了雅典。
The sense of renewal extends to the city's cultural life. TAF/the Art Foundation and six d.o.g.s. -- organizations that combine gallery spaces with food, drink and live entertainment -- have come to Athens's former flea-market district. Collaborations between traditional museums and younger institutions, including the Benaki Museum's effort with the Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art, are spicing up exhibitions and events. The National Museum of Contemporary Art finally opens its doors this summer; the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, designed by Renzo Piano, is scheduled for completion in 2015. Even the Caryatids, statues that have watched the world go by from the Acropolis for more than 2,000 years, are getting a face-lift. Their restoration will be on view in the Acropolis Museum through the end of the year. Like the city itself, they're getting prepped for the spotlight -- again.
雅典的文化领域同样也在焕发勃勃生机。TAF/the Art Foundation以及将画廊与餐饮和现场演出相结合的组织six d.o.g.s.已经进驻曾为跳蚤市场的地区。在传统博物馆和新兴机构的合作下，展览、演出等活动层出不穷，比如贝纳基博物馆(Benaki Museum)和戴斯特当代艺术基金会(Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art)的合作等。国家当代艺术博物馆(The National Museum of Contemporary Art)今年夏天终于开门迎客；由伦佐·皮亚诺(Renzo Piano)设计的斯塔夫罗斯-尼亚尔霍斯基金会文化中心(Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center)也计划于2015年完工。甚至在雅典卫城(Acropolis)中见证了2,000多年历史变迁的女像柱(Caryatids)也将被翻修重整。它们的重整工作将在卫城博物馆(Acropolis Museum)对公众开放参观，并一直持续到年底。和雅典城一样，它们已经准备好了再次走到聚光灯下。
THE COOK: Argiro Barbarigou
阿尔吉罗·巴尔巴里高厨师：阿尔吉罗·巴尔巴里高(Argiro Barbarigou)
Chef and owner of Papadakis and Homey
Papadakis and Homey的大厨和老板
TREAT SPOT // Sweet Alchemy Parliaros. There is no better baker or pastry chef in Greece than my friend Stelios Parliaros. When I wanted to learn how to up my game with pastry, I studied with him. He makes perfect truffles, which you can taste and buy at this chic bakery and shop. Irodotou 24, parliaros.gr
美食//Sweet Alchemy Parliaros。在希腊，没有哪个烘焙师、糕点师比得上我的朋友斯泰利奥斯·帕里阿罗斯(Stelios Parliaros)。以前我想提高烘焙技能的时候，就是找他学的。他做的松露堪称完美，你可以在这家别致的烘焙店里购买品尝。地址：Irodotou 街24号；网址：parliaros.gr。
INTERNATIONAL ACCESSORIES // Luisa. There are two locations in Athens, but my favorite boutique is in Kolonaki, where my restaurant is. It's my go-to shop for designer handbags and shoes. I usually go once a season and stock up on a few perfect items. Skoufa 15, luisaworld.com
国际配饰// Luisa。它在雅典有两家精品门店，我最喜欢的一家在柯洛纳基区(Kolonaki)，就在我的餐馆附近。它是我购买设计师手袋和鞋的必去之处。我通常每季去一次，屯上几件完美的物品。地址：Skoufa街15号；网址：luisaworld.com。
GREAT INGREDIENTS // Moiropoulous Dimitrios. This tiny shop is filled with treasures: dried figs, the best feta cheese in Greece, thyme honey from the Peloponnese. Hundreds of products. Emmanouil Benaki, 31, 30-210-3818846
精彩杂货店// Moiropoulous Dimitrios。这个小小的店铺里面满是宝藏：无花果干、希腊最好的菲达奶酪、来自伯罗奔尼撒(Peloponnese)的百里香蜂蜜。数百种商品。地址：Emmanouil Benaki街 31号；电话：30-210-3818846。
TOP COIFF // Love Is in the Hair. Christos Michailidis is the best hairdresser in the city. He cuts the hair of many of the country's biggest celebrities. Kifissia 146, loveisinthehair.gr
顶级发廊// Love Is in the Hair。克里斯托斯·米凯利迪斯(Christos Michailidis)是雅典城最棒的美发师。城里许多最大牌的明星都会找他做头发。地址：Kifissia街 146号；网址：loveisinthehair.gr。
NATURAL LIFT // Theano Bella Spa. I started going to Theano Bella three years ago. If you saw pictures of me before you would notice the difference her facials and creams have made. Her products are only available in the spa. She is also famous for her cellulite treatments. I swear they work. Leof. Amfitheas 103, theanobella.com
自然的养护// Theano Bella Spa。我是三年前开始来Theano Bella水疗馆的。如果你对比我来前后的照片，你就会注意到她这里面膜和面霜的效果。她的产品只在水疗馆里使用。她的去脂护理也很有名，我发誓它们真的管用。地址：Leof. Amfitheas街103号；网址：theanobella.com。
THE ARISTOCRAT: Prince Nikolaos of Greece
希腊尼古劳斯(Nikolaos)王子贵族：希腊尼古劳斯(Nikolaos)王子
Son of King Constantine II
希腊国王康斯坦丁二世(King Constantine II)的儿子
MORNING RAMBLE // Parnitha. When I'm feeling adventurous, I wake up before sunrise and head to Parnitha, a forested mountain range north of Athens, for the stunning scenery. On the way back down, the air is filled with the smell of freshly baked bread from little bakeries that offer very tasty koulouria pastries, which I love to have with my morning coffee.
清晨漫步//帕尼萨山(Parnitha)。每当我想找点刺激的时候，我就会在日出之前起床，去雅典城北边树木繁茂的帕尼萨山看那里绝美的景致。回来的路上，空气中弥漫着小烘焙坊里新鲜烤面包的味道，我喜欢这里非常美味的克鲁利(koulouria)糕点，用它来配我的清晨咖啡再好不过。
MONUMENTAL GALLERY // Acropolis Museum. It is truly impressive and one of my favorites -- a sleek, modern building housing of some of the earliest examples of architecture and sculpture, which were made with one of my preferred materials: marble. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, theacropolismuseum.gr
不朽的艺术长廊//卫城博物馆。它实在是非同凡响，是我的最爱之一。博物馆建筑线条柔和，极富现代感，馆藏建筑和雕塑的最早期范例，而且用的还是我最爱的材料：大理石。地址：Dionysiou Areopagitou街15号；网址：theacropolismuseum.gr。
HISTORIC STROLL // Plaka and Monastiraki. During warmer months I love to walk around these neighborhoods in Central Athens, with their many little shops and restaurants. The walk ends up at the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos in the ancient Agora. It is the oldest part of the city; it has an intimate feel to it.
闲步历史//普拉卡(Plaka)区和蒙纳斯提拉奇(Monastiraki)区。在天气比较暖和的月份，我喜欢在雅典市中心的这两个地区走走，看看里面众多的小店和餐馆。最后我会走到古代集会所里重建的阿塔罗斯柱廊(Stoa of Attalos)。这里是雅典城最古老的一部分，让我有种亲切感。
CHARISMATIC CAFE // Athinai Bistrot. Very close to the Acropolis Museum is this affordable restaurant, which serves excellent Greek dishes with a twist. The produce is all sourced from within the country. Makrigianni 3, 30-21-0922-9210
魅力餐馆// Athinai Bistrot。离卫城博物馆非常近，价格亲民，有上好的改良希腊菜。食材均取自希腊国内。地址：Makrigianni街3号；电话：30-21-0922-9210。
MOVIE SCENE // Cine Paris. In the summer months, there's a marvelous open-air cinema in Plaka called Cine Paris. It is unique because it's in a rooftop garden and has a view of the Parthenon. Kydathineon 22, cineparis.gr
露天影院// Cine Paris。夏季在普拉卡区有一处非比寻常的露天电影院，它的独特之处在于它建在一个屋顶花园之中，可以俯瞰帕特农神庙(Parthenon)。地址：Kydathineon街22号；网址：cineparis.gr。
THE ENTREPRENEUR: Lena Korres
莉娜·珂诺诗企业家：莉娜·珂诺诗(Lena Korres)
Co-founder of the beauty brand Korres
美容护肤品牌Korres联合创始人
LIGHT BITE // P-Box. I love the chef, Christoforos Peskias, who has traveled the world and worked at some of the best restaurants. The menu offers a mix of Greek and international dishes, often with an Asian touch. It's located a bit outside the city, in Northern Athens. 11 Levidou St., p-box.gr
美食// P-Box。我喜欢它的主厨克里斯托弗罗斯·帕斯奇亚斯(Christoforos Peskias)，他曾环游世界，在全球许多最好的餐馆工作过。这里既有希腊本地菜，还有常常添加了亚洲元素的国际美食。餐馆位于雅典城外以北一点的地方。地址：Levidou街11号；网址：p-box.gr。
SUPERB SEAFOOD // Varoulko. One of my favorite places to eat fish -- besides going to the Central Market to pick one out and have it grilled up -- is Varoulko, one of the first restaurants in Greece to receive a Michelin star. The service is wonderful. Try the kritharoto -- a Greek risotto -- with crayfish. Pireos 80, varoulko.gr
超棒海鲜// Varoulko。除了去中央市场(Central Market)挑条鱼自己烤制，我吃鱼首选地之一就是Varoulko，这是希腊首批获得米其林(Michelin)星级评定的餐馆之一。服务非常贴心。你可以试试小龙虾配希腊调味饭kritharoto。地址：Pireos 80号；网址：varoulko.gr。
SPLENDID RELICS // National Archaeological Museum. Treasures recovered from the Antikythera Shipwreck, which dates to the first century B.C., are on view here until the end of June. Recently they discovered that one find, now called the Mechanism, might be one of the world's first computers. 44 Patission, namuseum.gr
精彩遗迹//国家考古博物馆( National Archaeological Museum)。六月底之前这里都将展出从安提基特拉沉船(Antikythera Shipwreck)遗址中发掘出来的宝藏，安提基特拉沉船可以追溯到公元前一世纪。最近人们发现，在沉船里面发现的一样东西（如今被称为安提基特拉机械）可能是世界上最早的计算机。地址：Patission 街44号；网址：namuseum.gr。
SECRET SIP // Baba Au Rum. I am keen on this well-hidden downtown spot with an exceptional cocktail list. The space is reminiscent of bars in Berlin and New York. Kleitiou 6, babaaurum.com
隐秘酒吧// Baba Au Rum。我非常喜欢这个大隐于市的酒吧，它有许多很不错的鸡尾酒。这个地方会让人想起柏林和纽约的酒吧。地址：Kleitiou街6号；网址：babaaurum.com。
ANCIENT ARTIFACTS // Museum of Cycladic Art. It contains the world's best collection of Cycladic art. One of my favorite displays is 'Scenes of Daily Life in Antiquity,' which is also great for kids. This fall there will be a show about ancient Greek medicine that should be fascinating. Neophytou Douka 4, cycladic.gr
古代艺术品//基克拉迪艺术博物馆(Museum of Cycladic Art)。里面有世界上最好的基克拉迪艺术藏品。我最喜欢的展览之一是“古代日常生活场景”(Scenes of Daily Life in Antiquity)，也很适合小孩子。今年秋季这里将安排有关古希腊医药的展览，想必会相当吸引人。地址：Neophytou Douka 街4号；网址：cycladic.gr。
THE COLLECTOR: Iasson Tsakonas
伊尔森·萨寇纳斯收藏家：伊尔森·萨寇纳斯(Iasson Tsakonas)
Real-estate developer and founder of the ReMap art festival
房地产开发商、ReMap艺术节创始人。
STELLAR RESTO // Funky Gourmet. I've been going here regularly for four years and I am never disappointed. It's run by a young duo who are inspired by traditional Greek cuisine but give it a real contemporary take. It's in a corner building with huge windows, and ceilings made partly of glass, so you feel like you are outside. The restaurant just won its second Michelin star. 13 Paramithias, Keramikos, funkygourmet.com
明星餐馆// Funky Gourmet。四年来我一直是这里的常客，也从没失望过。它的老板是一对年轻人，他们受传统希腊美食的启发，但为之添加了真正现代的元素。餐馆建在一幢转角楼内，巨大的窗户、加上部分用玻璃制成的天花板，让人觉得仿佛是在室外。它刚刚获得了米其林二星评定。地址：Keramikos区Paramithias街13号；网址：funkygourmet.com。
ART INCUBATOR // The Breeder. One of the most interesting contemporary Greek galleries, with an international presence. They created a white cube with no windows in a building from the '70s in a red-light district. The space won architectural awards when it first opened a few years ago. The gallery has consistently good shows. 45 Iasonos, thebreedersystem.com
艺术孵化器// The Breeder。希腊最有意思的当代艺术馆之一，呈现国内外艺术家作品。艺术馆像一个白色的大立方体，没有窗户，设在某红灯区一幢70年代的大楼里面。艺术馆几年前刚落成时还获得了建筑奖。这里总是有不错的展览。地址：Iasonos街45号；网址：thebreedersystem.com。
INNOVATIVE INSTITUTION // Benaki Museum. Originally in the Benaki family mansion, the museum is now a network of a half-dozen spaces scattered throughout the city. Their contemporary collection has always been excellent but now that they are collaborating with the Deste Foundation, things will get really interesting. www.benaki.gr
创新机构//贝纳基博物馆。贝纳基博物馆最早建在贝纳基家族大宅邸里面，如今已经成为了一个分布在全城六个不同地方的博物馆网。他们的当代艺术品收藏一直非常杰出，如今他们正在和德斯特基金会(Deste Foundation)合作，真正的好戏看来还在后头。网址：www.benaki.gr。
WEEKEND BRUNCH // New Hotel. The restaurant here has the best brunch on Sundays. They bake their own bread and make a mean eggs Benedict. The hotel is very cool; it was designed by the Campana brothers. Filellinon 16, yeshotels.gr
周末早午餐// New Hotel。这里周日提供的早午餐是全城最好吃的。他们自己烤面包、做火腿蛋松饼。这家酒店特别酷，设计出自坎帕纳(Campana)兄弟之手。地址：Filellinon街16号；网址：yeshotels.gr。
THE PERFORMER: Sakis Rouvas
艺人：Sakis Rouvas
Singer, actor and former pole-vaulter
歌手、演员兼前撑杆跳运动员
SCENIC ROUTE // Temple of Poseidon. An amazing drive and the most beautiful sunset in the city. The ancient temple dedicated to Poseidon, the God of the sea, is surrounded by the Aegean Sea and has a rare spiritual energy. Cape Sounion, a little over 40 miles from Athens
风景线// 海神庙。一次奇妙之旅，这里也是这座城市最美的日落观赏地。这座古庙是为海神波塞冬(Poseidon)而建，被爱琴海环绕，有少见的灵性力量。地点：斯尼旺海角，距雅典40多英里。
PERFECT RUN // Schinias National Park Pine Forest at Marathon Bay. One of my favorite escapes. A beautiful forest by the sea featuring a rare ecosystem. It is an ideal destination for running, hiking, mountain biking. Every season has a different beauty and the pines on the coast make for a stunning landscape. About 25 miles from Athens, visitmarathon.gr
完美之行//希腊马拉松湾Schinias国家松林公园。这是我喜欢的出游地之一。海边的一座美丽森林，有着珍稀的生态系统。这是跑步、远足、骑山地自行车的理想之地。四季皆有其美，海岸边的松林勾勒出惊艳的美景。地点：大约距雅典25英里；网址：visitmarathon.gr
PORT ESCAPE // Kastella. I love every single part of this neighborhood, which has a breathtaking view of the Mikrolimano (small port in English), with great seafood restaurants and taverns. Being in Kastella is like visiting a Greek island while you are in Athens.
港口逸趣 // Kastella。我热爱这个地方的每个部分，这里有着令人窒息的小港景观，还有非常棒的海鲜餐馆和客栈。身在Kastella，仿佛身在雅典参观一座希腊岛屿。
Plus Don't Miss . . .
不可错过…
Odeon of Herod Atticus
阿迪库斯剧场(Odeon of Herod Atticus)
This open-air theater, on the south side of the Acropolis, hosts a number of performances during the annual Athens Festival.
这个露天剧场位于雅典卫城的南边，在每年一度的雅典节 (Athens Festival) 期间会有不少演出。
Nixon
Nixon
A new hot spot in Kerameikos that's a cocktail bar, restaurant, cinema and concert venue all in one. nixon.gr
这是凯拉米克斯(Kerameikos)的一处新的热门娱乐场所，集鸡尾酒吧、餐馆、电影院、音乐厅于一体。网址：nixon.gr
Queen Calliope
Queen Calliope
Greek-American photographer and stylist Calliope Karvounis just opened a boutique that sells boho-chic clothing and accessories. queencalliope.com
希腊裔美国人、摄影师兼造型师卡利俄珀·卡尔沃尼斯(Calliope Karvounis)新开的精品店，主打波西风情服装和饰品。网址：queencalliope.com
Nice 'N' Easy
Nice 'N' Easy
This spot serves delicious salads and other dishes made with ingredients sourced from small organic farms. niceneasy.gr
这家餐馆有美味的沙拉等美食，食材均来自小型有机农场。网址：niceneasy.gr。
Lalaounis
想买些有希腊古韵的漂亮现代珠宝？试试这家高端店铺。网址：lalaounis.com。
For beautiful modern versions of ancient Greek jewelry, visit this upscale shop. lalaounis.com
A for Athens
A for Athens
从这家精品酒店的露台上，你可以欣赏到令人惊叹的城市美景，雅典卫城、普拉卡区、蒙纳斯提拉奇广场(Monastiraki Square)等一览无余。网址：aforathens.com。