Weird things happen in the evenings. We stumble on mysterious temple rituals in the middle of nowhere, let ourselves get hypnotized by the chorus of voices, drums and gamelan. We find one small seaside town where all the locals have gathered in a darkened street for a birthday ceremony; Yudhi and I are both pulled out of the crowd (honored strangers) and invited to dance with the prettiest girl in the village. (She's enveloped in gold and jewels and incense and Egyptian-looking makeup; she's probably thirteen years old but moves her hips with the soft, sensual faith of a creature who knows she could seduce any god she wanted.) The next day we find a strange family restaurant in the same village where the Balinese proprietor announces that he's a great chef of Thai food, which he decidedly is not, but we spend the whole day there anyhow, drinking icy Cokes and eating greasy pad thai and playing Milton Bradley board games with the owner's elegantly effeminate teenage son. (It occurs to us only later that this pretty teenage boy could well have been the beautiful female dancer from the night before; the Balinese are masters of ritual transvestism.)

Every day I call Felipe from whatever outback phone I can find, and he asks, "How many more sleeps until you come back to me?" He tells me, "I'm enjoying falling in love with you, darling. It feels so natural, like it's something I experience every second week, but actually I haven't felt this way about anyone in nearly thirty years."

Not there yet, not yet to that place of a free fall into love, I make hesitant noises, little reminders that I am leaving in a few months. Felipe is unconcerned. He says, "Maybe this is just some stupid romantic South American idea, but I need you to understand—darling, for you, I am even willing to suffer. Whatever pain happens to us in the future, I accept it already, just for the pleasure of being with you now. Let's enjoy this time. It's marvelous."

I tell him, "You know—it's funny, but I'd been seriously thinking before I met you that I might be alone and celibate forever. I was thinking maybe I would live the life of a spiritual contemplative."

He says, "Contemplate this, darling . . . ," and then proceeds to detail with careful specificity the first, second, third, fourth and fifth things he is planning to do with my body when he gets me alone in his bed again. I wobble away from the phone call a little woozy in the knees, amused and bamboozled by all this new passion.

奇特的事在夜间发生。我们在前不着村、后不着店的地方碰上神秘的庙会，让自己被合唱歌声、鼓声与木琴声催眠。我们在某个海边小镇上，发现全部的当地人聚集在阴暗街道上举办生日庆典；尤弟和我被人从人群中拉出来（被外人视为嘉宾），受邀与村里最美的姑娘跳舞（她穿金戴银，香味四溢，化的妆仿如埃及人；她可能年仅十三岁，其纤柔、性感的摇臀方式却足以诱惑她想诱惑的任何神明。）隔天我们在同个村子里找到一家奇特的家庭餐馆，餐馆的巴厘老板自称是泰式料理的大厨，尽管他肯定不是。但我们还是整天待在餐馆里喝冰可乐，吃油腻的泰式炒面，和老板十几岁的柔弱儿子玩大富翁。（我们后来才想到，这位美少年很可能是前一晚的美少女舞者；巴厘人精通于仪式变装。）

每天我从所能找到的偏远电话亭跟斐利贝通话，他问："还得睡几天觉，你才会回到我身边？"他告诉我："我很享受爱上你，甜心。感觉如此自然，就像每隔两个礼拜就会经历的事情，但实际上我已将近三十年没对任何人有这种感觉了。"

还不到那里，还不到深深陷入爱中的地步，我语出犹豫，提起自己几个月后即将离开。斐利贝漠然以对。他说："或许这只是一个愚蠢浪漫的南美想法，但我要你了解——甜心，为了你，我甚至愿意受苦。无论我们之间将来发生任何痛苦，我都已接受，只为了现在和你在一起的快乐时光，让我们享受美好的此刻。"

我告诉他："你可知道，有趣的是——在遇见你之前，我认真考虑过永远独身。我打算过灵性沉思的生活。"

他说："甜心，那先来沉思一下……"而后开始具体陈述再度与我同床共枕时，他打算对我的身体所做的第一、第二、第三、第四、第五件事。讲完电话后，我膝盖软下去，踉跄地走开，为这新的激情感到莞尔而迷惘。