Walk the streets of Milan's Ticinese district and you’ll see young people drinking freely in open spaces like Parco delle Basiliche and Piazza della Vetra – an odd sight for any American.

走在米兰的提契诺（Ticinese）区的大街上，您会看到年轻人在诸如大教堂公园（Parco delle Basiliche）和米兰大教堂公园（Piazza della Vetra）这样的开放绿地畅饮，这对任何美国人而言都是奇怪的景象。

But it wasn’t always like this in Milan: ask around, and most locals will tell you that this relaxed attitude toward public intoxication began back in the 1960s with Bar Rattazzo and its owner, Pietro Rattazzo.

但米兰并非总是如此：随便打听一下，大多数当地人都会告诉你，这种对公共场合酗酒的宽容态度还要追溯到 1960 年代的 Rattazzo 酒吧及其主人 Pietro Rattazzo。

Now in his 70s, Rattazzo still works behind the counter, flanked by bottles of Chartreuse and Aperol. The bar is a fixture in this area, famous for serving Milan’s most infamous characters for more than 50 years.

现在已经 70 多岁的 Rattazzo 依然在酒吧柜台后工作，在荨麻酒（Chartreuse）和阿贝罗酒（Aperol）酒瓶之间穿梭忙碌。这家酒吧是米兰的必去场所，五十多年来，它曾为米兰最臭名昭彰的人物提供服务，由此远近闻名。

When I opened Bar Rattazzo with my wife in 1961, it was just anenoteca (wine bar). We served grappino (small glasses of grappa) and other wines I got cheap from the farms in Piedmont where my family worked, Rattazzo said.

Rattazzo 说，“ 1961 年我和妻子开办这个酒吧时，它还只是个葡萄酒吧（wine bar）。我们曾供应 grappino （小杯格拉巴酒) 和其他红酒，它们都是我从皮埃蒙特（Piedmont）家族农场很便宜进到的。”

His father had also run an enoteca, so it made sense to continue the family business. His experience paid off and business was good. The small shop continued in much the same way until the mid-1960s, when dramatic social changes transformed Bar Rattazzo from humble neighbourhood bar to the unofficial speakeasy of Milan's counterculture.

他的父亲也开过葡萄酒吧，继续经营家族生意也在情理之中。他的经验有了回报，酒吧生意很好。酒吧经营一直都没有多少变化，直到 1960 年代中期，社会发生巨变，Rattazzo 也从一家不起眼的社区酒吧变为米兰一家反主流文化的地下酒吧。

The neighbourhood changed very quickly. I just changed with it, Rattazzo said matter-of-factly.

Rattazzo 淡淡地说道，“社会变化很快，我只是因势而变。”

In the 1960s, the young generation of Italian students and workers was rejecting the status quo, demanding new rights and better education and threatening revolution. At that time, local governments in northern Italy were overwhelmed by an influx of workers from the south who came to work in factories churning out cars and machinery for companies like Fiat. Meanwhile, unions were losing their influence and leftist splinter groups were beginning to form. Unauthorized strikes were commonplace. The unions scrambled to reassert their influence by bringing the new groups into the fold, but the chaos continued.

1960 年代，意大利年轻一代学生和工人拒绝维持现状，他们要求获得新的权利和更好的教育，威胁要发起革命。当时，南部工人的涌入令意大利北部当地政府不堪重负，这些工人都在菲亚特等大量生产汽车和机器的工厂中工作。与此同时，工会的影响力日渐式微，极左翼的小派别开始形成。非法罢工司空见惯。为重新确立影响力，工会中不断涌现新的派别，但混乱仍在继续。

Adding to the social unrest was an unprecedented number of students enrolling at the region's many universities, a result of legislation in 1962 guaranteeing education until age 14. With the increase in literacy, many students decided to continue on to higher education. Between 1960 and 1968, the number of students enrolling at universities in Italy increased by 180,000.

由于 1962 年通过立法，规定要保证 14 岁之前孩子的教育机会，该地区许多大学扩大招生，空前的学生数量更加剧了社会动荡。随着文化素养的提高，许多学生决定继续深造。1960-1968 年间，意大利大学招生人数增加 180,000 人。

Italy's universities were ill prepared. They were antiquated and unable – or unwilling – to adapt. Professors were often absent. Exams were oral and grading subjective. Students had to resort to teaching themselves. Dropout rates soared to almost 50%.

意大利的大学对此准备不足。它们过于陈旧，无力或者不愿通过改变加以适应。教授们常常缺课。考试也靠口头凭主观打分。学生不得不依靠自学。辍学率飙升至近 50%。

Students flooded Milan, home to many of the country’s best universities. Cheap housing was in high demand and the Ticinese district was full of dormitories and apartments. Young workers and students began to outnumber the older, middle-class clientele who had been Rattazzo’s main customers.

学生们如潮水般涌入米兰，这里有意大利许多最好的大学。廉价房需求高涨，提契诺（Ticinese）区满是学生宿舍和公寓。Rattazzo 酒吧的客人中，青年工人和学生人数开始超出年长的中产阶级，而后者以往曾是酒吧的主要客人。

Rattazzo decided to sell cheap takeaway beers from a fridge to enjoy outside during the hot summer months – a novel idea at the time.

Rattazzo 酒吧决定在夏季售卖廉价的冰柜外卖啤酒，当时这还是一个新鲜的想法。