Contributors offer enticing options for both big spenders and budget minded in six favorite destinations, including Madrid, Copenhagen and Moscow.

不管是奢华游还是穷游，我们的撰稿人都准备出了十分诱人的旅游方案，涵盖马德里、哥本哈根、莫斯科等六大人气目的地。

Florence

佛罗伦萨

By INGRID K. WILLIAMS

作者：INGRID K. WILLIAMS

“Everything spoke so vividly to my soul,” Stendhal wrote in the 19th century of the Renaissance artworks with which Florence is so richly endowed.

“一切都在如此鲜活地向我的灵魂倾诉，”司汤达(Stendhal)在19世纪时，曾如此描述文艺复兴时期的艺术品，而这正是佛罗伦萨最不缺少的东西。

Today, a visitor to Florence could be stricken by a modern-day variant of that syndrome, simply faced with the treasures arrayed on counters and shelves in the city’s jewel-box shops and artisan ateliers. And it can happen at price points at both ends of the spectrum.

如今，一名来到佛罗伦萨的游客，单是面对这座城市的珠宝盒店和工匠工作室里的柜台与货架上码放的宝物，就可能完全被类似的现代人心理所攻陷。这种心理既可能出现在价格奇高的时候，也可能出现在价格亲民的时候。

It could happen at the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, where shopping for sweet rosewater and ancient herbal elixirs is a near-religious experience. It could happen in a side-street showroom of one of the city’s bespoke shoemakers, where gleaming, handcrafted leather brogues look like sculptures too beautiful to touch, let alone put on one’s feet. Or at the atelier of Lorenzo Villoresi, as the perfumer performs the meditative alchemy that will result in a signature scent, or at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where the centuries-old looms can lull you into a trance while they weave sumptuous silks fit for royalty.

可能是出现在圣塔玛莉亚诺维拉香水制造厂(Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella)里，在这里选购甜美的玫瑰水和古老的中药制剂，是种近乎于宗教性质的体验。也可能出现在该市某位定制鞋匠位于某条小巷内的样品间里，这里锃光发亮的手工皮布洛克鞋看上去有如雕像一般美到不可亵玩，更是教人舍不得穿到脚上。又或者出现在洛伦佐·维尔里西(Lorenzo Villoresi)的作坊里，这位调香师修炼的内丹术能够生成一种标志性的香气；再或者是在佛罗伦萨古丝绸厂(Antico Setificio Fiorentino)，厂里具有上百年历史的纺织机在纺织供给皇室的华丽丝绸时，能让你的内心平静下来，进入到一种放空的状态。

But my Stendhal moment struck at Ferragamo.

而我的“司汤达时刻”则出现在菲拉格慕。

Joined by my friend Jessie, who was visiting from New York, I walked the length of Via de’ Tornabuoni, the epicenter of Florentine Alta Moda. At the southern end of the street, in a grand medieval palazzo, is the flagship store that Salvatore Ferragamo opened in 1937. Today the stone edifice also houses the Ferragamo Museo, which documents the life of the shoemaker who created trendsetting designs for Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe.

我的朋友杰西从纽约过来，陪我一起走完了整条托纳波尼路(Via de’ Tornabuoni)——佛罗伦萨的时尚中心。在这条街道的南端，一间宏伟的中世纪宫殿里，有一间1937年开业的萨瓦托·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)旗舰店。如今，这座石砌建筑内还开设了一间菲拉格慕博物馆(Ferragamo Museo)，用来记录这位制鞋匠的一生——他曾为玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)等诸多好莱坞明星创作了引领潮流的新设计。

But we were there for the shoes. We entered a hushed salon awash in hues of beige and the heady scent of leather. Along the walls was a rainbow — plum patent leather heels, blue suede moccasins, cherry-red flats with prim grosgrain bows. We were both drawn to a pair of seductively high heels in wool houndstooth. Terribly impractical for both my budget and the cobblestones with which all Italian residents must contend, the heels went home with Jessie. I contented myself with a more sensible splurge: classic ballerinas in supple black leather. (Prices go up to 1,000 euros for shoes — nearly $1,100 at $1.10 to the euro — though most fall between 300 to 500 euros.)

不过我们是来这里看鞋子的。我们走进了一间静谧的鞋店，里面遍布着真皮的米黄色色调，弥漫着醉人的真皮香气。店内的墙面上铺成了一道彩虹——紫红色的漆皮高跟鞋，蓝色的绒面莫卡辛鞋，樱桃红色的平底鞋，上面还装饰着端庄的罗缎蝴蝶结。我们两人都被一双迷人的千鸟格羊毛面料高跟鞋吸引住了。可惜无论是考虑到我的预算，还是考虑到所有住在意大利的人都必须与之搏斗的鹅卵石路面，这双高跟鞋都非常地不切实际，它还是被杰西买回了家。我则通过一笔更为明智的挥霍满足了自己的欲望：一双采用柔软的黑色皮革制成的经典款芭蕾舞鞋。（每双鞋的价格最高可达1,000欧元——按1欧元兑1.10美元计算约合1,100美元——不过大部分都在300欧元到500欧元不等。）

Yet like a love that slipped away, the houndstooth heels still haunt my thoughts on every return to Florence. I imagine a secondhand pair might one day turn up at my favorite vintage store, Marie Antoinette, which opened a year and a half ago in an alley behind Ferragamo. The shop stocks pristine secondhand as well as new pieces from local designers, so you can score like-new Gucci hobo bags, candy-colored Miu Miu heels and suede Proenza Schouler satchels for prices that are surprisingly reasonable, though still far from frugal — about half of what they cost new in the designer stores. Many bags are under 1,000 euros.

然而，那双千鸟格高跟鞋就像一名擦肩而过的爱人，在我每次重回佛罗伦萨时都依然萦绕在我的脑海中。我幻想着也许会有那么一天，一双二手的千鸟格高跟鞋将会出现在我最喜欢的古着店玛丽安托瓦内特(Marie Antoinette)店内——这家古着店于一年半前开业，就坐落在菲拉格慕后面的一条小巷内。这间商店里既有早期的二手古着，也有本土设计师的设计新品，你可以淘到近乎全新的古奇(Gucci)新月包、缪缪(Miu Miu)糖果色高跟鞋和普罗恩萨·施罗(Proenza Schouler)绒面邮差包，价格虽然远远称不上节俭，却也已经合理得惊人了——大约只要设计师品牌店售价的一半左右。许多手袋的价格都不到1,000欧元。

Truly great deals were once easy to find in Florence’s markets, like sprawling San Lorenzo where stall after stall is filled with leather goods of varying provenance and quality. Sadly, that is often no longer the case. Skeptics may save their euros for a purchase at the Scuola del Cuoio in Santa Croce, where you can watch master craftsmen make top-handle totes and roomy overnight bags that are sold on-site for a fraction of what they’d likely cost in the States. Most items are in the 300- to 400-euro range, more for exotic leathers.

在佛罗伦萨的许多集市里，曾经很容易找到特别划算的商品，比如占地面积庞大的圣洛伦索(San Lorenzo)，那里一座又一座的小摊上，摆满了不同产地不同品质的皮革制品。遗憾的是，如今这种场景已经不再多见。疑心比较重的游客，可能会把他们的欧元留到圣十字广场(Santa Croce)内的皮革作坊Scuola del Cuoio里再来消费，你可以在这间店里观赏到大师级的工匠制作手拎包和宽敞的旅行袋，这些制品均在现场销售，价格可能只需要在美国的几分之一。大部分商品的价格都在300欧元到400欧元之间，使用进口皮革的商品会更贵一点。

But a little risk at the market can still yield great rewards. Years ago, my husband artfully bargained down the price of a cognac leather briefcase at the Mercato del Porcellino, ultimately obtained for 75 euros. It may not be Ferragamo, but after years of wear from daily use, the Italian leather has never looked better.

但是在集市上冒点风险，仍然可能带来巨大的回报。几年前，我先生就很厉害地在小猪市场(Mercato del Porcellino)里，将一只棕褐色公文包的价钱一直侃到了75欧元，成功入手。即便不是菲拉格慕的牌子，在经过多年的日常穿用之后，意大利的皮革都会变得越来越耐看。

Champagne

香槟

By ALEXANDER LOBRANO

作者：ALEXANDER LOBRANO

When this region of northeastern France was awarded World Heritage status by Unesco in July, there was no doubt what quaff would be poured to celebrate the new designation — the world’s most elegant and expensive sparkling wine. Happily, though, discovering the bubbly on its home turf is as much a pleasure for budget travelers as it is for big spenders.

这处位于法国东北部的地区，于今年7月被联合国教科文组织评为了世界遗产，此时要倒来畅饮以庆祝这一新头衔所用的佳酿，自然得是世界上最优雅也最昂贵的气泡酒。不过让人开心的是，在香槟的家乡寻找这种起泡酒，为囊中羞涩的游客和一掷千金的游客所带来的乐趣基本是对等的。

The best experiences in Champagne are often both sensual and studious, including the most surprising lesson many learn from a trip to Reims, the area’s largest city: That festive image to one side, Champagne is also a profoundly sophisticated and complex table wine, pairing well with the superb food served in the region’s many excellent restaurants.

在香槟感受到的最佳体验，往往兼具感官与见识两方面，其中有一条最令人惊喜的经验，很多人都会在前往当地最大城市兰斯(Reims)的旅途中学习到：除了上述节庆用途之外，香槟也是一款口感极为成熟多变的餐桌葡萄酒，与当地许多出色餐馆所提供的优质食物，在口味上都可以完美搭配。

The most delicious way to discover Champagne’s gastronomic aptitude is through one of the regularly renewed menus that the chef Philippe Mille creates at Le Parc, the Michelin two-star restaurant at the plush Le Domaine Les Crayères hotel. This past winter, Mr. Mille’s stunning black-truffle-themed menu, served with a selection of Krug Champagnes, began with grilled scallops and celery-and-black-truffle “risotto” in a Parmesan foam; echoes of the sweet scallops, earthy truffles and Parmesan’s salty umami richness could all be tasted in the paired wine, a Grande Cuvée called “L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime.”

感受香槟美味的最佳方式，就是借助于大厨菲利·米勒(Philippe Mille)为豪华的雷克莱耶尔酒店(Le Le Domaine Les Crayères)内开设的米其林二星级餐厅Le Parc设计的任意一份定期更新的菜单。去年冬季，米勒先生推出了令人惊艳的黑松露主题菜单，搭配精选的库克香槟(Krug Champagnes)，头盘为烤扇贝配西芹黑松露意大利调味饭(risotto)浇帕马森芝士泡沫汁；鲜甜的扇贝、朴实的松露和帕马森芝士的咸香相互呼应，配合一款名为L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime的库克陈年香槟(Grande Cuvée)，逐一品味。

Since such a luxurious and expensive meal (360 euros, about $395) should be savored, you might as well spend the night at Les Crayères, as I did; with silk damask curtains framing beautiful views of the gardens that surround this Belle chateau, these cosseting rooms begin at 370 euros a night, low season; 395 euros a night, high season.

如此豪华昂贵的佳肴（360欧元，约合395美元）理应全方位享受，建议你不妨像我一样，在雷克莱耶尔酒店下榻一晚；丝制锦缎窗帘框出一幅幅环绕这座美好年代(Belle )酒庄而建的公园美景，这般极尽奢华的房间的价格为淡季一晚370欧元起，旺季一晚395欧元起。

The next morning, I headed to the Atelier Dom Pérignon in nearby Hautvillers for what may be the region’s most charming and erudite lesson in Champagne connoisseurship. These workshops, which are limited to 12 participants and cost 600 euros, include a visit to the 12th-century abbey where the label’s namesake Champagne-making Benedictine monk is buried, a visit to the cellars, lunch and a tasting of three Champagnes; specify when booking if you want an English-language session.

次日一早，我出发前往附近的欧维莱尔(Hautvillers)小镇里的唐培里侬酒坊(Atelier Dom Pérignon)，去参加大概算是当地最吸引人也最开眼界的香槟鉴赏课。这类课程最多仅限12人参加，收费600欧元，内容包括：参观一间12世纪的修道院，当年酿造出这款香槟的本笃会僧人唐培里侬就下葬于此；参观酒窖；享用午餐，同时品尝三款香槟；预订课程时记得指明是否是要英语班。

Even if the atelier hadn’t been so amiable, interesting and animated, it would have been worth it for the head-spinning pleasure of tasting the 2003 rosé, which was spicy on the palate with a salty finish and had a nose that included figs, strawberries, guava, violets and vanilla.

即便酒坊的气氛没有那么平易近人、趣味盎然和栩栩如生，却依然值得一去，体验品尝2003年份玫瑰香槟(rosé)时的眩晕乐趣，这种香槟的口感辛辣，余味带咸，充满无花果、草莓、石榴、紫罗兰和香草的香气。

Reims is also both an easy day trip from Gare de l’Est station in Paris and comfortably visited on foot or by public transportation, making it the most affordable choice for anyone wanting to discover Champagne at the source.

要去兰斯，你既可从巴黎东站(Gare de l’Est)出发，轻松地完成一趟当天来回的短途旅行，也可舒适地搭乘公共交通工具或步行前往，这对任何想要在香槟之乡发掘香槟之美的人而言，都是最实惠的选择。

The only Champagne cellar tour in Reims where you don’t need an advance booking is Taittinger, which charges a very reasonable 16.50 euros for an hourlong English-language tour. It offers a good general introduction to how Champagne is made and concludes with a sample of Taittinger’s very suave Brut Réserve Champagne.

在兰斯，唯一不需要你提前预订的香槟酒窖游是泰亭哲(Taittinger)酒窖，这里收费合理，16.50欧元便可享受一个小时的英语观光。其中会生动地简要介绍香槟如何酿造，并在最后提供泰亭哲的几种口感成熟的珍藏纯干香槟(Brut Réserve Champagne)的样品供大家品尝。

After the cellar tour, you’ll be ready for lunch; a perfect spot is the new modern bistro Racine, run by the talented young Japanese-born chef Kazuyuki Tanaka. The two-course 29-euro weekday lunch menu includes delicious contemporary French dishes like shrimp with candied lemon and butternut squash or rabbit with radishes and basil; there’s also a short but excellent wine list of distinctive small-producer “grower” Champagnes, or wines produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards from which the grapes come. The restaurant also happens to be just around the corner from the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-Reims, where most of the kings of France were coronated. Since there is no entrance fee at the church, the pleasure of discovering its stained-glass windows, which range from a spectacular medieval rose window over the main doorway to contemporary works created by the artist Paul Chagall, is free.

酒窖游之后，大家的午餐便已准备就绪；有一处完美的场所便是新建的现代酒馆Racine，老板是在日本出生、才华洋溢的大厨田中和幸(Kazuyuki Tanaka，音译)。这份价值29欧元的午餐由两道菜组成，包括美味的当代法国料理，例如蜜渍柠檬虾配冬南瓜，或者水萝卜罗勒兔肉；还有一份类目不多但是十分出色的酒单，里面会有风味独特的小众酿酒商酒农香槟(Grower)，或是由自身就拥有葡萄园的酒庄使用自己出产的葡萄酿成的葡萄酒。就餐的餐厅恰好也在宏伟的哥特式大教堂兰斯主教座堂(Notre-Dame de Reims)附近，大多数的法国国王都是在这座教堂里加冕登基的。这座教堂可以免费入内参观，因此游客也可以免费享受探索教堂内花窗玻璃的乐趣，其中既有悬挂在大门上方瑰丽无比的中世纪玫瑰窗，也有艺术家保罗·夏卡尔(Paul Chagall)创作的现代花窗。

Moscow

莫斯科

By CHARLY WILDER

作者：CHARLY WILDER

A decade ago, Moscow night life was synonymous with a certain brand of over-the-top opulence, all ’80s pomp and ’90s pout. The new-moneyed elite of the post-Soviet era had left their indelible mark: endless bottle service, velvet ropes, V.I.P. tables, pyrotechnics and gamine go-go dancers.

十年前，莫斯科的夜生活就是某种特定的代名词，象征着过度的奢华，各种80年代的盛况和90年代的挫折。苏联解散后不断涌现的新贵精英，在这里留下了他们不可磨灭的标记：没完没了的整瓶服务、天鹅绒围栏、贵宾桌、炫富和妖冶的艳舞舞女。

Even with Russia’s recent economic downturn and fallout with the West over Ukraine, there’s still no shortage of splashy upscale club culture. The fanciest — Soho Rooms, Krysha and the newer banker favorite Siberia — impose capriciously rigorous door policies (known here as “face control”) and hold parties that would make a Las Vegas stage show look discreet. But the clubbing landscape has diversified in the last 10 years, and many of the newer high-end venues take a more toned-down, or at least tongue-in-cheek, approach.

即便俄罗斯最近惨遭经济衰退，西方世界也为乌克兰带来了负面影响，引人注目的高级俱乐部文化却依然盛行不衰。那些最时髦的经营场所——Soho Rooms、Krysha还有备受新晋银行家青睐的Siberia——实施着单方面严格的入场政策（在当地称为“看脸入场”），举办的派对足以让拉斯维加斯的舞台表演相形失色。不过当地夜总会的经营形式在过去10年里已经愈发多元，许多更新的高档场所都采取了一种更为低调，起码是十分安分守己的姿态。

Moscow’s fashionable artsy set tends to stay out of the flashy clubs, populating instead places like Noor, a Spanish-tiled cocktail bar and gallery that by night turns into one of the city’s chicest parties. To look at the crowd — black-clad, androgynous, stylishly understated — you could be in Lower Manhattan or East London, with nary a neon mini-dress in sight.

莫斯科的时尚艺术圈往往远离那些俗丽的俱乐部，另外扎根于Noor这样的地方，这是一间充满西班牙风情的鸡尾酒吧兼艺术廊，每到夜晚，就会摇身一变，成为这座城市里最时尚的派对会场之一。看看周围的人群，他们一袭黑衣，男女莫辨，有种低调的别致，会让你错以为自己身处曼哈顿下城或伦敦东区，只是连一件霓虹色的迷你裙都看不到。

Another club that bucks the boilerplate is Denis Simachev, owned by the designer of the same name whose brand of punk-opulent postmodern camp has made him big in Russian fashion. This (non)aesthetic permeates the venue: beaded curtains, disco balls and toilets and sinks that double as furnishings, a disused electric chair and a semi-pornographic anime tile mosaic.

另一间以标杆自诩的俱乐部是Denis Simachev，店名沿用了老板自己的名字丹尼斯·西马切夫，他是一名设计师，拥有一个走华丽朋克路线的后现代露营品牌，令他驰名于俄罗斯时尚界。这种（非）审美观渗透了这间会场的方方面面：珠帘，兼作装饰物品的迪斯科舞厅、厕所和水槽，一台已报废的电椅，还有略带色情意味的动漫图案瓷砖镶嵌。

The crowd is young, urbane and gay-friendly, as was Mr. Simachev’s recently closed second nightclub, the Chinese-themed #LOL (yes, really). #LOL played host for the transgender rapper American Mykki Blanco in November when Solyanka, the venue where she was scheduled to perform, was raided and closed that morning. Now, if you want to see 19-year-old Russian boys dressed up like health-goth (think fetish punk meets Soul Cycle) Japanese girls , Denis Simachev is probably your best bet.

这里的顾客年轻斯文，善待同志，就和西马切夫先生最近刚刚停业的第二间夜总会，以中华元素为主题的#LOL（是的，就是这个名字）一样。今年11月，美国跨性别饶舌歌手米基·布兰科(Mykki Blanco)原定用作演出会场的Solyanka遭到抢劫，于当日上午关门停业，便是#LOL接过了主办的重任。现在，如果你想看到19岁的俄罗斯男生打扮成运动哥特风（想象一下恋物癖朋克与精品健身房Soul Cycle的结合体）的日本女生，Denis Simachev大概就是你的最佳选择。

Sprawling riverside Gipsy recently reopened after a six-month hiatus on Krasny Oktyabr, or Red October, an island opposite the Kremlin that is home to the former chocolate factory complex of the same name. There, high-rolling 20-somethings in European designer outfits dance under an electrified ceiling covered in enormous mirror balls while big-name Russian D.J.s spin remixed pop and hip-hop hits on a stage lit up with neon LED. There are palm trees and swimming pools and replicas of famous Soviet socialist-realist statues wearing sunglasses and club regalia. In typical Moscow style, Gipsy’s menu includes sushi, flavored hookah pipes and a drink list that ranges from a 300-ruble cup of tea (about $4.70, at 65 rubles to the dollar) to an 80,000-ruble magnum of Dom Pérignon.

临河而建、占地广阔的Gipsy，经过6个月的沉寂后，在红十月岛(Krasny Oktyabr)上重新开业，这座小岛正对着克里姆林宫，以前曾是同名巧克力加工厂的厂房所在地。俱乐部里，一群20多岁、疯狂舞动的年轻人，穿着欧洲设计师设计的行头，在挂满了巨大镜球的电气化天花板下方舞动，大牌的俄罗斯DJ们则在霓虹灯照耀下的舞台上，打着混音后的流行和嘻哈劲曲。那里有棕榈树，游泳池，还有苏联时期的著名社会写实主义雕像的复制品，上面挂着墨镜和俱乐部的徽章。Gipsy是典型的俄罗斯式俱乐部，菜单内容有寿司，调味水烟管，和一份内容广泛的酒水单，既有300卢布一杯的茶水（按1美元兑65卢布计算，约合4.70美元），也有80,000卢布一瓶的唐培里侬香槟王(Dom Pérignon)。

Though Moscow is not known for its dive bar culture, those in search of cheap night life can find a few standouts. Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da (Russian for Chinese Pilot Jao Da, a semi-mythical character whose exploits are detailed throughout the premises) is a basement bar and rock music space with a lived-in, salon-like atmosphere. Drinks are mostly under 300 rubles, less if you go for the rotating shot specials.

虽然莫斯科的廉价酒吧文化并不出名，不过寻求平民夜生活的人倒是可以在这里找到几处不错的去处。Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da（在俄语中为“中国飞行员Jao Da”之意，这是一位半神话色彩的人物，这间俱乐部里详细地描绘了他的事迹）是一间地下酒吧和摇滚乐空间，内有现场演出，带着一种有如沙龙般的氛围。这里酒水的价格大部分不到300卢布，特调流水酒水的话还要更便宜。

Vtoroe Dyhania (Russian for “Second Wind”), at 10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok, is the last of its kind in Moscow: a 50-year-old authentic Soviet “rumochnaya” or vodka room. It’s a simple room where all-day drinkers, walk-ins and a smattering of ironically outfitted university students stand around tall round tables drinking tap beer and, of course, vodka, which still sells for an incredible one ruble per gram, meaning a 50-gram “rumka” costs about 70 cents. On the exposed-brick walls, framed Soviet bar posters serve as a reminder that before the Champagne and disco balls, Moscow had a different kind of drinking tradition.

Vtoroe Dyhania（俄语中为“重振旗鼓”之意），位于10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok，是莫斯科同类酒吧中的最后一间——拥有50年历史的地道苏联伏特加酒吧(rumochnaya)。它只有一间布置简朴的小屋，那些日夜喝个不停的酒鬼、途经的路人和少量穿得人模人样的大学生们围站在高高的圆桌四周，喝着生啤，当然还有伏特加，每克的价格竟然依然只要1卢布，也就是50克一“份”（rumka，俄罗斯专门用于盛放伏特加的酒杯——译者注）的价格只要70美分。裸露的砖墙上所挂的带框苏联酒吧海报提醒着大家，在香槟和迪斯科球盛行之前，莫斯科曾有另外一种饮酒习俗。