(单词翻译:单击)
Yves Carcelle, the charismatic executive who transformed Louis Vuitton from a staid French maker of handbags and travel trunks into one of the world’s most recognizable luxury brands, died on Sunday in Paris. He was 66.
巴黎——伊夫·卡塞勒(Yves Carcelle)是一位富于领袖魅力的执行官,曾一手将路易威登从古板的法国手包和旅行箱制造商改造为世界最为知名的奢侈品牌之一。他于周日在巴黎逝世,享年66岁。
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the parent company of Louis Vuitton, confirmed the death in a statement on Monday without specifying a cause. The French news media reported that Mr. Carcelle learned last year that he had kidney cancer.
路易威登的母公司LVMH酩悦·轩尼诗-路易·威登集团在周一发布声明确认死讯,并没有公布死亡原因。据法国新闻媒体报道,卡塞勒去年被查出患有肾癌。
Mr. Carcelle, who was promoted to the top post at the Louis Vuitton brand in 1990 and later ran LVMH’s fashion division, was the main architect of an aggressive expansion into Asia and other international markets that elevated leather goods emblazoned with Louis Vuitton’s distinctive LV logo into one of fashion’s most coveted status symbols.
卡塞勒于1990年被提升为路易威登的首席执行官,后来又掌管LVMH公司的时尚部门,他是公司在亚洲与其他国际市场大规模扩张的总设计师,令印有路易威登招牌的LV标识的皮具成为时尚界最令人垂涎的身份象征之一。
In 1997, he gave the brand further impetus by recruiting Marc Jacobs to design shoes and ready-to-wear clothing for Louis Vuitton, which also added watches, jewelry and other accessories.
1997年,他招来马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)为路易威登设计鞋履和成衣,此外还为路易威登增添了腕表、珠宝和配饰系列。
“He really gave his life to that place,” Mr. Jacobs said on Monday from New York. “But while he knew it was a huge business and he was building it, he never forgot it was also something he enjoyed, and it was fun. And that made all the difference.”
“他把生命献给了这里,”雅可布于周一在纽约说,“他知道这是一个巨大的公司,他正在建设它,但他也从没忘记这是他喜爱的事业,是一件做起来有趣的事情。正是这一点让他如此与众不同。”
Mr. Carcelle joined LVMH in 1989 as head of strategy. In 1990 he became chairman and chief executive of its Louis Vuitton Malletier unit, as it was then called. He was put in charge of the LVMH Fashion Group in 1998, overseeing not just Louis Vuitton but a stable of prominent brands, including Loewe, Céline, Givenchy, Donna Karan, Kenzo, Berluti, Fendi and Thomas Pink. He stepped down as head of fashion in 2002 to focus exclusively on Louis Vuitton.
卡塞勒于1989年作为战略领导者加盟LVMH,1990年,他当上路易威登的主席和首席执行官,当时公司的名字还叫路易威登马利蒂(Louis Vuitton Malletier)。1998年,他开始主管LVMH时尚集团,不仅经管路易威登,还要负责其他许多著名品牌,包括罗意威(Loewe)、赛琳(Céline)、纪梵希(Givenchy)、唐纳·卡兰(Donna Karan)、高田贤三(Kenzo)、伯鲁提(Berluti)、芬迪(Fendi)和托马斯·平克(Thomas Pink)。2002年,身为时尚界领袖的他后退一步,转而专注于路易威登的发展。
Under Mr. Carcelle’s leadership, the number of LVMH boutiques doubled to 1,300 in more than 50 countries, while revenue soared almost tenfold to nearly 10 billion euros, or $13 billion. Louis Vuitton remains the French luxury giant’s main source of revenue, accounting for more than two-thirds of the group’s fashion and leather goods sales.
在卡塞勒的领导之下,路易威登的门店增长了一倍,达到1300家,遍布世界50多个国家,公司收入几乎增长了10倍,达到将近100亿欧元,或130亿美元。路易威登一直是LVMH这个法国奢侈品巨头的主要收入来源,其收入占集团时装与皮具销售收入的2/3还多。
Mr. Carcelle was born on May 18, 1948, in Paris. A mathematics major, he earned degrees from France’s elite École Polytechnique and from Insead business school. Far removed from the glittering halls of LVMH, he started his career in the less glamorous realms of household cleaning products and polyurethane foams for a series of companies at which he held marketing and product management roles. He later worked with the Absorba clothing brand and was president of Descamps, a French maker of high-end household linens.
卡塞勒于1948年5月18日出生于巴黎。大学时主修数学,在法国精英学府巴黎理工大学和欧洲工商管理学院取得学位。他的事业生涯从并不光鲜亮丽的家庭清洁产品和聚氨酯泡沫开始,和LVMH华丽的厅堂可谓天差地别。他在这些行业中的一系列公司里担任市场营销和产品管理工作。后来去了伊莎堡服装公司,随后又担任法国高端家纺制造商戴斯坎普(Descamps)公司的总裁。
He retired from Louis Vuitton in 2012 and was succeeded by Jordi Constans, a Spanish businessman who resigned a month later for health reasons. Mr. Constans was replaced by Michael Burke, a French-American businessman and longtime LVMH executive, who remains in that role.
2012年,他从路易威登退休,继任者西班牙商人若尔迪·康斯坦斯(Jordi Constans)一个月后便因健康原因辞职。最终这个职务由法裔美国商人,LVMH集团任职多年的高管迈克尔·伯克(Michael Burke)接任至今。
Until early this year, Mr. Carcelle had been vice president of the Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation, a multimillion-dollar, Frank Gehry-designed museum on the outskirts of Paris that will house LVMH’s vast collection of contemporary art. It is scheduled to open next month. He had also been an adviser to the LVMH chairman, Bernard Arnault, and served on the board of the French luxury industry lobby, the Comité Colbert.
今年年初之前,卡塞勒一直是路易威登创意基金的副总裁,这是一座价值数千万美元的博物馆,位于巴黎郊区,由弗兰克·盖瑞(Frank Gehry)设计,将展出LVMH集团收藏的众多当代艺术。该馆计划于下月开馆。卡塞勒还是LVMH集团总裁伯纳德·阿诺特(Bernard Arnault)的顾问,也是法国奢侈品行业游说团法国精品行业联合会(Comité Colbert)的成员。
Mr. Carcelle was named a chevalier, or knight, of the Legion of Honor in 2004 for his contributions to French cultural life.
2004年,卡塞勒因其对法国文化生活的贡献而受封法国荣誉军团骑士。
“He had this capacity of seeing the big picture while focusing on the smallest details,” Mr. Arnault’s son Antoine, who worked closely with Mr. Carcelle at Louis Vuitton, said in an email. “This perfect mix of left brain/right brain that is what you search for in top managers.”
“他能在看清大局的同时关注最小的细节,”阿诺特的儿子安托尼(Antoine)在电子邮件中说,他曾在路易威登与卡塞勒密切合作。“这种左脑与右脑的完美合作只有顶尖管理者才能具备。”
The younger Mr. Arnault, who is now chief executive of the Berluti brand, added: “His charm and charisma were unparalleled. However, he was a fierce negotiator, and you didn’t want to get in his way.”
安托尼·阿诺特现在是伯鲁提品牌的首席执行官,他还说:“他的魅力与领导才能无与伦比。此外,他也是凶狠的谈判对手,你绝不想挡他的路。”
Mr. Carcelle is survived by his wife, Rebecca, and their two sons, as well as by three children from a previous marriage, Women’s Wear Daily reported.
据《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily)报道,卡塞勒尚在世的亲人包括妻子丽贝卡(Rebecca)以及他们的两个儿子,还有他上一次婚姻中的三个孩子。