In and around Hanoi stand thousands of years of history. The spiral-shaped Co Loa citadel complex is thought to date to around 200 B.C. A delicate pagoda perched atop a white column in the heart of the city is from the 11th century. But no era may have shaped Hanoi more than the years of French colonial occupation, 1883 to 1954.
河内及其周边地区拥有数千年的历史。螺旋形的古螺城(Co Loa)据说可以追溯到公元前200年；高耸于市中心白柱台之上的精致佛塔始建于11世纪。然而在河内的发展过程中，可能没有哪个时代能超过1883到1954年法国殖民时期对它的影响。
The Vietnamese capital was refashioned into a French-style metropolis, with broad avenues lined with trees, European-inflected buildings and Paris-style cafes. Despite the oppression that took place during the colonial years, and the devastating war and dramatic political changes that followed, it's a time -- or at least a feel -- that's often romanticized. And the French legacy is still evident in almost every aspect of Hanoi, from architecture to art to food.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal图片：探访河内的古与今这座越南的首都被重新塑造成法兰西风格的都市，宽阔的街道绿树成荫，处处是欧式风格的建筑和巴黎风情的咖啡馆。尽管经历了殖民时期的压迫以及那之后毁灭性的战争和政治上的剧变，那依然是一段常常被赋予浪漫色彩的时期——至少感觉上是这样。法国的遗存在河内的几乎每一个方面都依然十分明显，从建筑到艺术再到美食，无处不在。
But this city isn't stuck in the past -- in recent years, steel and glass buildings have claimed their place in Hanoi's skyline; clothing designers with an eye to Paris and Milan have been showing their collections at Vietnam Fashion Week; and new galleries and artist studios have blossomed.
然而这座城市并没有停留在过去——近年来，玻璃钢架建筑已经矗立在河内的天际线上；着眼巴黎和米兰的服装设计师在越南时装周(Vietnam Fashion Week)上展示着他们的作品；新落成的画廊和艺术家工作室遍地开花。
Just as destinations have different sides, so do travelers. This pair of itineraries lets you spend a visit delving into Hanoi's colonial past or exploring its buzzy, fluid present. Or, blend the two lists for a best-of bespoke guide.
正如旅游目的地有多面性一样，旅游者们的需求也各不相同。这里有两份旅游行程，一份可以让你深入探访河内的殖民地历史；一份能让你发现它活力、动感的现在，你也可以将两张行程合二为一，形成一份最佳的定制旅游指南。

Then
河内之访古
SEE //Arches, Embellishments
参观：建筑和装饰
Architecture is the most visible legacy of the colonial period in Hanoi. Styles that emerged more than a century ago still influence current designs, but for the real deal, head to the old French quarter and the embassy district. Take an architectural tour with a local company like Hidden Hanoi -- or let 'Vignettes of French Culture in Hanoi,' a slim paperback produced by the group Friends of Vietnamese Heritage, guide you. (It's available on Amazon.)
建筑是河内最明显的殖民时期遗产。一个多世纪以前的建筑风格依然对当前的设计发挥着影响，但要看到货真价实的东西，直接去老的法国人聚居区及使馆区。游客可以参加“河内秘密之旅”(Hidden Hanoi)等当地机构组织的河内建筑之旅，或者让《河内的法国文化点滴》(Vignettes of French Culture in Hanoi)这本由“越南传统文化保护友人”组织(Friends of Vietnamese Heritage)制作的小册子带你游览。（这本书在亚马逊网站(Amazon)有售）
Early colonial buildings, like the post office at 1 Le Thach St., had tall, arched windows and slate mansard roofs. Plans -- and even materials -- were usually imported from France, and the structures trapped heat in summer and water during torrential rains. But designs quickly evolved -- the Palais de Justice, finished in 1906, had peaked roofs to shed rain; the 1919 Lycee Albert Sarraut had hallways along outside walls as a buffer against the heat.
早期的殖民地建筑，比如黎石街1号(1 Le Thach St.)的邮政大楼，都拥有高挑的拱形窗户和复折式石板屋顶。设计方案甚至是建筑材料通常来自法国，这种结构在夏天难以散热，下暴雨时还会水流不畅。不过房屋的设计很快得到了改进——1906年完工的法院大楼(the Palais de Justice)就修成了尖屋顶，以便下雨时排水；1919年修建的阿尔贝·萨罗学校(Lycee Albert Sarraut)沿外 修建了走廊，利于防暑降温。
The Art Nouveau, neoclassical and Machine Age styles that later became popular in France also migrated to Hanoi; they can be seen in mansions that now house embassies and government offices in the relatively quiet Ba Dinh District. Villas along Ba Huyen Street and the north side of Chu Van An Street boast Machine Age hallmarks like flat roofs, porthole windows and geometric window screens.
后来流行于法国的新艺术派(The Art Nouveau)、新古典主义(neoclassical)和机器时代(Machine Age)的风格也迁移到了河内，这类建筑在相对清静的巴亭区(Ba Dinh District)还能看到，如今已被用作使馆和政府机关的办公大楼。巴玄街(Ba Huyen Street)上和朱文安街(Chu Van An)北侧的别墅都留有“机器时代”风格的标志性印记，诸如平屋顶、舷窗式窗户及几何形状窗格。
Perhaps the most architecturally significant buildings were built in the 1920s by Ernest Hebrard, a scholar and archaeologist who merged French building styles with Asian details. The roof of his University of Indochina building is edged with Asian-inspired patterns; part of it is tiered like a pagoda. Mr. Hebrard also incorporated traditional details such as carved screens and the roof beams seen in temples into the facades of later buildings, like the Bureau des Finances and what is now the National History Museum.
最具建筑学意义的建筑也许是20世纪20年代由学者兼考古学家埃内斯特·艾伯(Ernest Hebrard)建造的，他把法式建筑风格与亚洲的建筑细节融于一体。由他设计的印度支那大学(University of Indochina)大楼，屋顶边缘镶嵌的是亚洲元素的图案，有的部分像佛塔一样层层叠叠。艾伯还把雕屏和寺庙里见到的那种顶梁等传统细节元素融入了后来建筑（比如当年的财政局(the Bureau des Finances)、如今的国家历史博物馆(the National History Museum)）的外立面中。
SHOP //Prizes from the Past
购物：来自过去的奖赏
Intent on feeling at home in Indochina, as they called it, French colonists imported everything from furniture to jewelry from Europe. Authentic examples can be tough to find, but 54 Traditions, a five-story shop that focuses on antiques related to Vietnamese minorities, also offers up colonial relics like silk fans and tribal jewelry that incorporates old French coins. Over time, local artisans also learned to make French-style goods, including embroidered linens. Bach Thi Ngai, the octogenarian owner of Tan My, learned some of her patterns from French customers as a child. Her shop sells bedding, table linens and clothing stitched with traditional white-on-white floral motifs as well as colorful modern designs.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street JournalMoniq by M品牌服装为了在他们所称的印度支那感觉像自家一样，法国殖民者从欧洲舶来了从家具到珠宝的所有东西。真品可能很难再找到，但一家五层楼高、专门经营越南少数民族古董的商店54 Traditions也出售绢扇和嵌有法国旧币的少数民族首饰之类的殖民时期纪念品。久而久之，当地的手工艺人也学会了制作包括亚麻绣品在内的法式商品。服饰店Tan My 80多岁的老板Bach Thi Ngai就是儿时从法国顾客那儿学会了一些花色图案。她的商店经营床上用品、桌布、缝有传统白色提花图案的服装以及五颜六色的现代款服饰。
If it's fashion you're after, Thu Madelin at Moniq by M, on the western side of Hoan Kiem Lake, takes cues from overseas vintage stores. You can find 1950s-ish tops, polka-dot dresses and high-collared classics -- plus a punky edge.
如果你追求的是时尚，还剑湖(Hoan Kiem Lake)西侧Moniq by M服装店的Thu Madelin从国外的复古商店获得了启示。你可以找到20世纪50年代样式的上衣、圆点图案服饰和高领古典服装，外加浓厚的朋克色彩。
EAT //Frogs Legs and Foie Gras
美食：青蛙腿和鹅肝酱
European interlopers in Vietnam introduced novel cooking styles and foods -- like coffee, baked goods, and even vegetables like cabbage and carrots -- that became essential to Vietnamese cuisine. For a literal taste of the French era, join local businessmen at Le Beaulieu, the French restaurant housed in the Hotel Metropole Hanoi, which has been serving classic French dishes like frogs legs and beef Rossini since it opened more than a century ago. Locals of all ages head to cafes for bracingly strong Vietnamese coffee (often flooding it with condensed milk). Cafe Mai, a no-frills spot open since the 1930s, still serves some of the tastiest brew in town. Near the Hanoi Cathedral, the Hanoi Social Club, a newer coffee shop with tile floors and colorful walls, draws a young, artistic crowd. And for a bite that illustrates how important the French influence has been on local food, it's hard to beat a banh mi sandwich, a Vietnamese standard made up of classic French ingredients -- baguette and pate, ham or egg. They're served at street stalls around the city and at the bare-bones sandwich shop Cafe 252, which offers a wide variety of fillings served Hanoi-style, without excessive flavorings or garnishes.
闯入越南的欧洲人带来了新的厨艺风格和美食——比如咖啡、焙烤食品、甚至像卷心菜和胡萝卜之类的蔬菜——这些已经成为越南菜不可或缺的一部分。要想实实在在品尝法国殖民时期的美食，游客可以像当地商人一样来到Le Beaulieu餐厅，这家位于河内大都会酒店(Hotel Metropole Hanoi)的法国餐厅自从一个世纪前开业以来一直就供应青蛙腿和罗西尼牛肉等法国菜肴。各种年龄的当地人都喜欢到咖啡馆去喝强力提神的浓厚越南咖啡（经常要加入大量的炼乳）。Cafe Mai是20世纪30年代就已开张的一家廉价咖啡馆，这里的咖啡依然是全城口味最好的。在河内大教堂(the Hanoi Cathedral)附近，Hanoi Social Club这家年代更新、瓷砖地面、彩色 面的咖啡店吸引了文艺青年人群。要想找一种食物证明法国对当地饮食产生了多么重大的影响，没有什么东西能和越南法式三明治(banh mi sandwich)相匹敌了，这种越南的标志性食品用经典的法国原材料做成——法式长棍面包和肉馅、火腿或鸡蛋。这种三明治在河内满城的食品摊上以及简 的Cafe 252三明治店都有出售。Cafe 252三明治店有河内风格的各种馅料，没有添加过多的调味品或配菜。
SLEEP //In Classic Quarters
住宿：经典住宅区
When the Greek Revival-style Hotel Metropole opened in 1901, it quickly became the preferred address for fancy visitors, from European royals to celebrities like Charlie Chaplin and Noel Coward. Its boulangerie sold French pastries, the bar offered French wine and the hotel hosted jazz nights and showed films. Now the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, it looks much the same on the outside, with square columns and a scalloped metal awning, and still exudes old-school elegance. The lobby, the bar (which serves some of the best cocktails in the city) and guest rooms in the original wing boast period-appropriate details like teak shutters, ceiling fans and traditional Vietnamese porcelain.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal旧时的完美 河内索菲特传奇大都会酒店(The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi)，1901年开业。当希腊复兴风格(Greek Revival-style)的大都会酒店(Hotel Metropole)1901年开业的时候，它很快成为了上流贵宾的首选下榻之处，无论是欧洲的皇室还是查理·卓别林(Charlie Chaplin)和诺埃尔·科沃德(Noel Coward)那样的社会名流，都纷纷选择这里。那时的酒店面包房销售法式甜馅饼，酒吧供应法国葡萄酒，酒店当年还举办爵士之夜音乐会、播放电影。酒店现在已变身河内索菲特传奇大都会酒店(the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi)，从外面看几乎和过去别无二致，旧韵依存的方柱与扇形的金属遮阳棚仍然流露出老派建筑的典雅。旧楼一侧的大堂、酒吧（提供全市最好的一些鸡尾酒）和客房保存了柚木百叶窗、吊扇及传统的越南陶瓷等与殖民年代相称的风格细节。

Now

河内之探今
SEE //Au Courant Art
参观：新潮的艺术
Hanoi has been a cultural center as far back as the Bronze Age; to really get a sense of its modern persona, explore it through art rather than architecture. (An exception: the Hanoi Museum in the Tu Liem District; the 4-year-old inverted pyramid by German architecture firm gmp, gives visitors the sense of floating over the landscape.)
河内自遥远的青铜时代(the Bronze Age)就一直是文化中心，要真正了解它的现代形象，游客应该通过艺术而非建筑去发现这座城市。（例外：慈廉区(the Tu Liem District)的河内博物馆(the Hanoi Museum) ，这幢由德国GMP建筑师事务所设计、建成四年的倒金字塔建筑给游客一种漂浮于景致之上的感觉。）
In the 1980s, Hanoi artists began treating Vietnamese subjects with Western techniques like oil painting. 'It was the first generation in hundreds of years . . . pretty much allowed to do what they wanted,' said Suzanne Lecht, owner of Art Vietnam Gallery, which shows contemporary work. Galleries independent of the government emerged in the 1990s. Vu Dan Tan and his wife, Natalia Kraevskaia, founded Salon Natasha, in their pink home in the Hoan Kiem District. Ms. Kraevskaia now uses it to exhibit the work of her late husband, including his masks made from cigarette boxes. In 1998, artist Nguyen Manh Duc opened Nha San Studio, in his traditional Muong stilt-house in the Ba Dinh District. It now showcases the Nha San Collective, a group of contemporary artists that includes Mr. Nguyen's 29-year-old daughter, Nguyen Phuong Linh. (Works like the 'Dust Project,' vials of dust collected around the world, have earned her an international reputation.) Manzi gallery and cafe shows creations from the past decade, such as Nguyen Minh Thanh's serene self-portraits.
在20世纪80年代，河内的艺术家开始用油画等西方技巧表达越南的主题。“这是数百年来第一代……几乎完全可以随心做事的人，”展出当代作品的Art Vietnam Gallery画廊的老板苏珊·莱希特(Suzanne Lecht)说。独立于政府的民间画廊在20世纪90年代开始出现，Vu Dan Tan和他的妻子纳塔利娅·克雷夫斯卡娅(Natalia Kraevskaia)在还剑区(Hoan Kiem District)他们的粉色住宅中创建了Salon Natasha画廊。克雷夫斯卡娅现在用它来展出她已故丈夫的作品，包括他用香烟盒做的面具。1998年，艺术家Nguyen Manh Duc在巴亭区他的芒族传统吊脚屋里开办了工作室Nha San Studio。该工作室如今陈列的是当代艺术家群体Nha San Collective的作品，其中包括Nguyen Manh Duc 29岁的女儿Nguyen Phuong Linh。（用小瓶收集世界各地尘埃的《尘埃工程》(Dust Project)等作品已经让她赢得了国际声誉。）画廊咖啡厅Manzi展出的是过去十年创作的作品，比如Nguyen Minh Thanh安详的自画像。
SHOP //Forward Fashion
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal聚焦未来 Rue des Chats精品服装店购物：前卫的时尚
Though tour promoters would have you believe that all Vietnamese women bike through the city in slim-cut ao dai dresses and conical hats, it's not quite the case. Rue des Chats, in an upscale area in the Hoan Kiem District, offers silk tops, sheath dresses and flowery prints by designers Anhuong Tran and Le Minh. The team behind Boo Skateshop in Hang Gai, draws from current American trends.
虽然旅游推广人士会让你相信所有的越南女性会穿着修身的传统袄代装(ao dai)、头戴斗笠骑车穿行在城市之中，但事实并不一定如此。位于还剑区一个高档消费区的Rue des Chats有售Anhuong Tran和Le Minh等设计师出品的丝绸上衣、紧身连衣裙和印花服装。杭盖街(Hang Gai)上的Boo Skateshop服装店背后的团队吸取了当今美国流行趋势中的时尚元素。
EAT //Fusion of the Future
美食：未来的融合
Just as French ingredients have influenced Vietnamese dishes, Vietnamese ingredients and techniques are inspiring a generation of French chefs cooking in Hanoi. At La Badiane, in a refurbished French villa, Benjamin Rascalou serves foie gras with roasted mango slices, and crab remoulade with ginger oil and local asparagus. Didier Corlou of La Verticale offers up slices of duck carpaccio and melon, flavored with five-spice. Taste a twist on traditional ha cao dumplings -- shrimp-and-pork ravioli in fish stock -- at Pots 'n Pans, a collaboration between Australian and Hanoian chefs in a brick and concrete space.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street JournalLa Verticale餐厅的一道菜正如法国的食材对越南菜产生了影响一样，越南食材和烹饪技术正激发着新一代在河内的法国厨师。修葺一新的法国别墅里的餐厅La Badiane，邦雅曼·拉斯卡鲁(Benjamin Rascalou)推出了烤芒果片配鹅肝酱、以及用生姜油和当地芦笋做的蟹黄酱。La Verticale餐厅的迪迪埃·科卢(Didier Corlou)献上的是五香甜瓜生鸭片。游客还可以在Pots 'n Pans餐厅尝尝传统的虾饺——在鱼汤中烹煮的虾和猪肉陷水饺，这是澳大利亚与河内厨师在一处砖混结构的房子里合开的餐厅。
SLEEP //A Modern View
住宿：现代景观
Even as Hanoi becomes a contemporary capital, it looks to its past for inspiration. At the Melia Hanoi hotel, murals of local temples share space with contemporary art. Guestrooms look out onto Chinese, French and glass-and-steel buildings, all mixing together in the heart of the city.
尽管河内正日益成为一座现代化的都城，它仍然还在从过去寻找灵感。在河内美丽雅酒店(the Melia Hanoi hotel)，当地寺庙中的壁画与当代艺术齐聚一堂，从客房向外看，中式、法式和玻璃钢架结构的建筑在市中心交相辉映。