You’ve done the big dress (or the very small one), the shoes, the jewels – all the stuff that goes on top. Which makes now, the time between the hoo of Christmas and the ha of new year, the best time to consider what goes underneath. Lingerie is once again having a moment.
诸位女士已把宽式女裙（或是迷你款）、鞋履、首饰等置办到位——全是上档次的品牌货，如今考虑穿啥内衣来搭配可谓正逢其时。女式贴身内衣再次成为时尚弄潮儿。
Fashion is in the throes of revisiting all things 1990s, from grunge (see Dries Van Noten’s jewelled flannel shirts, Junya Watanabe’s denims and Vivienne Westwood’s artfully frayed knits) to the ubiquitous platform trainers (Giuseppe Zanotti, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Christian Louboutin). So perhaps it’s no surprise that the underwear-as-outerwear trend is back. This time, however, it is less about what you see, and more about what you don’t.
从格郎基时尚（grunge，一种邋遢、不分性别的反时尚时尚，诸位只要看一下德赖斯•范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)饰宝石的法兰绒衬衣、渡边淳弥(Junya Watanabe)的工装裤以及薇薇恩•韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)巧妙磨损处理的针织毛衣）到随处可见的厚底运动鞋（朱塞佩•萨诺第(Giuseppe Zanotti)、马克•雅可布(Marc Jacobs)、克里斯蒂安•娄伯丁(Christian Louboutin)等款式鞋），时尚界正努力复古上世纪90年代的各种时尚风。因此内衣外穿潮卷土重来或许也就不足为怪了。但这一回，不是展示一目了然的外衣，更多的是介绍无法轻易看见的内衣。
Maria Williams, head of lingerie buying at Net-a-Porter, says: “What we’re seeing is a breaking down of boundaries between ready-to-wear and intimates. Ultimately, it’s a trend that is about bringing the focus back to the woman’s body.”
Net-a-Porter网店女士内衣采购部负责人玛丽亚•威廉姆斯(Maria Williams)说：“如今众目睽睽的是突破成衣与贴身内衣的界限。这种流行趋势最终是重新把关注的目光投向女士的身体。”
It’s an attitude echoed by design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. “Lingerie is the maximum expression of a woman’s femininity,” says Gabbana. “Instead of covering a woman’s body, we prefer to accentuate its qualities.”
这种时尚做法得到二人设计组合斯特凡诺•加巴纳(Stefano Gabbana)与多梅尼科•多尔切(Domenico Dolce)的附和。“贴身内衣最能展示女性的柔美与气质，” 加巴纳说。“我们更希望突显女性身躯的柔美，而不是遮蔽。”
Sarah Shotton, creative director at lingerie retailer Agent Provocateur, says: “People increasingly want to subtly show off their lingerie and we are designing pieces to let them do that. But it’s not showing up for work in a pencil skirt and a bra; it’s about giving a hint of something.”
英国女士内衣公司Agent Provocateur创意总监萨拉•尚顿(Sarah Schotton)说：“消费者越来越希望巧妙地展露自己的内衣，我们的设计于是迎合其需求。但这并非招摇紧身窄裙与文胸的做工技艺，而是给人以某种遐想。”
See, for example the bestselling bras at Agent Provocateur: Annoushka (£160), a halter-neck-style in delicate lace; the Jet (£110), which criss-crosses the décolletage; and the tulle and silk Demelza (£125). Prim and proper they are not, but each bra is designed to give just a hint of what lies beneath when fully clothed.
比方说，诸位看一下Agent Provocateur那几款最为畅销的文胸：Annoushka绕颈系带露背奢华蕾丝款（售价160英镑）、十字交叉形Jet低胸露背款（售价110英镑）以及Demelza薄纱丝绸文胸（售价125英镑）。它们并不循规蹈矩，但每款文胸设计得让人臆想联翩。
At the spring/summer 2014 collections shown in Paris in October, Stella McCartney mixed her crisp suiting with sensuous lace-trimmed slip dresses and camisoles. She wasn’t the only one to mix innerwear and outerwear. There were bra-tops at Prada, Isabel Marant and Dolce & Gabbana, an endless parade of see-through lace at Burberry; fishnet bodystockings worn by melancholy Vegas showgirls at Louis Vuitton; big underwear-revealing skirts at Giambattista Valli; and layers upon layers of sheer everywhere from Balenciaga to Calvin Klein Collection.
去年10月在巴黎举行的2014年春夏季时装秀上，斯特拉•麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)用蕾丝边性感吊带裙与贴身女背心与挺括西服巧妙混搭。象她这样把内衣与外套混搭的设计师大有人在：普拉达(Prada)、伊莎贝尔•玛兰(Isabel Marant)、杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)均推出了自己的文胸式上衣，博柏利(Burberry)源源不断推出透明蕾丝文胸，路易威登(Louis Vuitton)时装秀忧郁的拉斯维加斯歌舞女郎大秀网眼布紧身连体衣裤，詹巴蒂斯塔•瓦莉(Giambattista Valli)推出宽式露内衣裤的短裙以及从巴黎世家(Balenciaga)到卡尔文•克莱恩(Calvin Klein)推出的各种透明薄纱文胸。
The trend has even crossed over to the high street. “Outerwear and lingerie will intertwine further next season,” says Soozie Jenkinson, head of lingerie design at Marks and Spencer. “Clothing trends on the catwalks for spring will demand a variety of lingerie solutions.” This, she says, ranges from “look at me” items such as longline bralets and camisoles to skin-tone pieces designed to do a disappearing act under sheer fabric.
这种时尚风甚至影响到了高端时装界。“外套与内衣之间的混搭将延续至下个服装季，”玛莎百货(Marks and Spencer)内衣设计总监詹金森(Soozie Jenkinson)说。“今年春夏季T型台上的流行时装需要各种款式的内衣来装点。”她说，它们从多钩长线文胸与女式背心等传统养眼款内衣到穿在透明薄纱外衣里隐而不现的肉色内衣，应有尽有。
Of course, sex and fashion have never been strangers. But it would seem that these old bedfellows are in the process of renegotiating their relationship – perhaps as a result of the debate about hyper-sexualisation in popular culture, from Kate Moss’s Playboy shoot to Miley Cyrus’s twerking, Lily Allen’s flesh-baring music video parody, Terry Richardson’s sexualised brand of fashion photography, or the 50 Shades of Grey phenomenon. Even worthy artistic types have discovered a newfound reverence for, or at least fascination with, pornography. The work of Italian erotic film director Tinto Brass was celebrated in a documentary at the 2013 Venice Film Festival. Lars von Trier’s latest film, Nymphomaniac , is touted as an art house film with graphic unsimulated sex scenes, and boasts an all-star cast including Charlotte Gainsbourg, Shia LaBeouf, and Uma Thurman.
当然，性感与时尚从来都是形影不离。但这对“老闺蜜”似乎正在重新调整处理彼此之间的关系——从《花花公子》上凯特•莫斯(Kate Moss)的性感照片到麦莉•赛勒斯(Miley Cyrus)的电臀舞，从莉莉•艾伦(Lily Allen)裸露肉体的模仿秀音乐视频、泰利•理查森(Terry Richardson)情色风格的时尚摄影到性爱小说《五十层灰》(Fifty Shades of Grey)，大概这是对过度性化的通俗文化辩论的结果吧。2013年威尼斯电影节(Venice Film Festival)上，意大利情色电影导演丁度•巴拉斯(Tinto Brass)的作品以纪录片的形式试映；丹麦导演拉斯•冯•提尔(Lars Von Trier)的最新影片《女性瘾者》(Nymphomaniac)因展示大量活春宫图片而被誉为艺术影片，其演员阵容超豪华——夏洛特•甘斯布(Charlotte Gainsbourg)、希安•拉博夫(Shia LaBeouf)以及乌玛•瑟曼(Uma Thurman)等明星云集。
Shotton says: “I think, with the likes of Miley Cyrus, things have got very extreme and that’s not necessarily sexy. I prefer to leave a little to the imagination”.
尚顿说：“我觉得，有了麦莉•赛勒斯(Miley Cyrus)这等明星，一切往往走极端，但不一定非得走情色路线，我更喜欢留一点点想象空间。”