Which made us all laugh because Ubud is full of these young guys, these "drivers," who sit on every corner and harass passing tourists with the never-ending sales pitch, "Transport? Transport?" trying to make a buck driving folks out of town to the volcanoes, the beaches or the temples. Generally speaking, this is a fairly good-looking crowd, what with their fine Gauguin skin, toned bodies and groovy long hair. You could make a nice bit of money in America operating a "fertility clinic" for women, staffed with beautiful guys like this. Wayan says the best thing about her infertility treatment is that the drivers generally don't even ask any payment for their sexual transport services, especially if the wife is really cute. Felipe and I agree that this is quite generous and community-spirited of the fellows. Nine months later a beautiful baby is born. And everyone is happy. Best of all: "No need to cancel the marriage." And we all know how horrible it is to cancel a marriage, especially in Bali.

Felipe said, "My God—what suckers we men are."

But Wayan is unapologetic. This treatment is only necessary because it's not possible to tell a Balinese man that he is infertile without risking that he will go home and do something terrible to his wife. If men in Bali weren't like this, she could cure their infertility in other ways. But this is the reality of the culture, so there it is. She doesn't have the tiniest shred of bad conscience about it but thinks it's just another way of being a creative healer. Anyway, she adds, it's sometimes nice for the wife to make sex with one of those cool drivers, because most husbands in Bali don't know how to make love to a woman, anyway.

"Most husbands, it's like roosters, like goats."

I suggested, "Maybe you should teach sex education class, Wayan. You could teach men how to touch women in a soft way, then maybe their wives would like sex more. Because if a man really touches you gently, caresses your skin, says loving things, kisses you all over your body, takes his time . . . sex can be nice."

Suddenly she blushed. Wayan Nuriyasih, this banana -massaging, blad-der-infection-treating, dildo-peddling, small-time-pimp, actually blushed.

"You make me feel funny when you talk like that," she said, fanning herself. "This talking, it makes me feel . . . different. Even in my underpants I feel different! Go home now, you both. No more talk like this about sex. Go home, go to bed, but only sleeping, OK? Only SLEEP-ING!" Eat, Pray, Love

我们全笑了，因为乌布镇处处看得见这些年轻人，这些坐在每个街角的"司机"，骚扰路过的游客，不断叫嚷："搭车？搭车？"希望载人出城游览火山、海边或寺庙，以赚点小钱。大致说来，这群人相貌堂堂，肤色有如高更画中的人物，身材健美，蓄时髦的长发。在美国为女人开一间"精子诊所"，雇用这类美男子，绝对可以让你大赚一笔。大姐说她的不孕治疗最妙的是，一般来说，这些司机为自己提供的性传送服务甚至不求报偿，尤其倘若看诊的妻子长相漂亮的话。斐利贝和我同意这些男人相当慷慨且极具社区精神。九个月后，漂亮的孩子出生了。人人都很高兴。最美好的是"没有必要取消婚姻"。我们都晓得取消婚姻在巴厘岛是多么可怕的事情。

斐利贝说："老天——我们男人真是坏蛋。"

大姐理直气壮。这项治疗之所以有必要，是因为对一个巴厘岛男人说他不孕，他回家的时候免不了要对妻子做出可怕的事。倘若巴厘男人不像这样，她大可用其他方式治疗不孕。但这是文化现实产生的结果。她对此毫不心虚，而认为这只不过是另一种创意疗法。她又说，无论如何，让妻子和很酷的司机做爱有时候不失为好事，因为巴厘岛的多数老公都不知道如何和女人做爱。

"多数老公都像公鸡，像山羊。"

我提议："大姐，或许你该开设性教育课程。你该教导男人如何温柔抚摸女人，那么也许他们的老婆会更喜欢性爱。因为男人如果温柔抚摸你，触摸你的肌肤，说甜言蜜语，亲吻你全身，不慌不忙……性爱可以是美好的事情。"

突然间，她脸红了。这位按摩香蕉、治疗膀胱感染、卖人工生殖器、有时拉皮条的大姐，竟然脸红了。

"你说这些，让我觉得别扭，"她扇扇自己，说，"这些谈话，让我觉得……有异状，就连内裤里头也觉得有异状！你们两个回家去吧。别再谈这些有关性的事了。回家，上床去，但睡觉就好，好吧？睡觉就好！"