But that's not all Wayan can do. Also, she told us, she is sometimes called upon to be a teacher of sex for a couple who are either struggling with impotence or frigidity, or who are having trouble making a baby. She has to draw magic pictures on their bedsheets and explain to them which sexual positions are appropriate for which time of the month. She said that if a man wants to make a baby he should make intercourse with his wife "really, really hard" and should shoot "water out from his banana into her vagina really, really fast." Sometimes Wayan has to actually be there in the room with the copulating couple, explaining just how hard and fast this must be done.

I ask, "And is the man able to shoot water out of his banana really hard and really fast with Dr. Wayan standing over him watching?"

Felipe imitates Wayan watching the couple: "Faster! Harder! You want this baby or not?"

Wayan says, yes, she knows it's crazy, but this is the job of the healer. Though she admits it requires a whole lot of purification ceremonies before and after this event in order to keep her sacred spirit intact, and she doesn't like to do it very often because it makes her feel "funny." But if a baby needs to be conceived, she will take care of it.

"And do these couples all have babies now?" I asked.

"Have babies!" she confirmed with pride. Of course they do.

But then Wayan confides something extremely interesting. She said that if a couple is not having any luck conceiving a child, she will examine both the man and the woman to determ-ine who is, as they say, to blame. If it's the woman, no problem—Wayan can fix this with an-cient healing techniques. But if it's the man—well, this presents a delicate situation here in the patriarchy of Bali. Wayan's medical options here are limited because it is beyond the pale of safety to inform a Balinese man that he is sterile; it cannot possibly be true. Men are men, after all. If no pregnancy is occurring, it has to be the woman's fault. And if the woman doesn't provide her husband with a baby soon, she could be in big trouble—beaten, shamed or divorced.

"So what do you do in that situation?" I asked, impressed that a woman who still calls semen "banana water" could diagnose male infertility.

Wayan told us all. What she does in the case of male infertility is to inform the man that his wife is infertile and needs to be seen privately every afternoon for "healing sessions." When the wife comes to the shop alone, Wayan calls some young stud from the village to come over and have sex with her, hopefully creating a baby.

Felipe was appalled: "Wayan! No!"

But she just calmly nodded. Yes. "It's the only way. If the wife is healthy, she will have baby. Then everybody happy."

Felipe immediately wanted to know, since he lives in this town, "Who? Who do you hire to do this job?"

Wayan said, "The drivers."

然而大姐的能力不仅这些。她告诉我们，有时她还必须教导如何对抗不举或冷感，或者教导生不出小孩的夫妻有关性的事。她必须在他们的床单上画魔法图，对他们说明哪些性姿势适合月中的哪一天使用。她说男人若想要孩子，就该和老婆"非常、非常使劲地"做爱，就该"从他的香蕉非常、非常快速把水喷入她的阴道"。有时大姐还必须亲自和做爱的夫妻待在房间里，说明该多么使劲、多么快速。

我问："有医师大姐站在身边，男人有办法让香蕉非常使劲、非常快速地喷出水来吗？"

斐利贝模仿大姐观看夫妻："快一点！使劲点！你到底想不想要小孩啊？"

大姐说，是的，她知道这很怪，但这是治疗师的职责。尽管她承认进行这件事之前与之后必须举行多次净化仪式，以便让她的圣灵完好无损，她并不喜欢太常做，因为这让她觉得"怪异"。但倘若关于受孕，她就会处理。

"这些夫妻现在都生了孩子吗？"我问。

"生孩子了！"她骄傲地确认。当然他们都生了孩子。

但大姐接着告诉我们一件相当有趣的事。她说假使一对夫妻不幸无法受孕，她就会同时检查夫妻两人，决定——照他们的说法——过错在谁。假使问题在女方，没问题——大姐可采取古疗法治疗。但倘若问题在于男方——这在巴厘岛的父权社会中，可是微妙的情况。大姐在此情况下的医疗选择有其限制，因为直接对一个巴厘岛男人说他不孕是危险的事——男人怎么可能不孕的！男人毕竟是男人。倘若无法怀孕，肯定错在女方。倘使女人不赶紧给丈夫生孩子，麻烦可大了，她可能遭遇挨揍、羞辱、被休的命运。

"在这种情况下，你怎么处理？"我问道。心中啧啧称奇于一个还把精液称作"香蕉水"的女子，能够诊断得出男人不孕。

大姐对我们说明一切。她对男人不孕病例采取的治疗法是，跟男人说他的妻子不能生育，而妻子必须每天下午单独前来参与"疗程"。当妻子独自来店里时，大姐从村子里找一名年轻男人过来，跟妻子做爱，希望让她怀孕。

斐利贝惊恐地说："大姐！不可能吧！"

但她只是平静地点点头。是的。"别无选择。妻子如果健康，就能生下孩子，人人都很高兴。"

斐利贝因为住在镇上，立刻想要知道："谁？你雇谁做这个工作？"

大姐说："就是那些司机。"