His feijoada was amazing, anyway. Decadent, spicy and rich—everything you can't nor-mally get in Balinese food. I ate plate after plate of the pork and decided that it was official: I can never be a vegetarian, not with food like this in the world. And then we went out dancing at this local nightclub, if you can call it a nightclub. It was more like a groovy beach shack, only without the beach. There was a live band of Balinese kids playing good reggae music, and the place was mixed up with revelers of all ages and nationalities, expats and tourists and locals and gorgeous Balinese boys and girls, all dancing freely, unself-consciously. Armenia hadn't come along, claiming she had to work the next day, but the handsome older Brazilian man was my host. He wasn't such a bad dancer as he claimed. Probably he can play soccer, too. I liked having him nearby, opening doors for me, complimenting me, calling me "darling." Then again, I noticed that he called everyone "darling"—even the hairy male bartender. Still, the attention was nice . . .

无论如何，他的黑豆烤肉棒极了。颓废、辛辣、醇厚——巴厘岛食物当中通常吃不到的一切。我一盘接一盘地吃烤肉，决定承认：只要这世界上有这种食物存在，我就永远吃不成素。而后我们去当地一家舞厅跳舞，如果能称之为舞厅的话。它更像是时髦的海滩棚屋，只是少了海滩。有个巴厘岛年轻人组成的现场乐团，演奏很不错的雷鬼音乐，舞厅里的人形形色色，各种年纪与国籍，海外人士、游客、当地人、炫丽的巴厘岛少男少女，人人跳得浑然忘我。亚美尼亚没来，她说隔天得干活儿，但年长的巴西美男子招待我。他不像自己宣称的那样舞跳得不好。或许他也会踢足球。我喜欢他在身边，为我开门，恭维我，叫我"甜心"。而后，我发现他对每个人都叫"甜心"——连毛茸茸的男酒保也是。尽管如此，有人献殷勤还真是不错……

It had been so long since I'd been in a bar. Even in Italy I didn't go to bars, and I hadn't been out much during the David years, either. I think the last time I'd gone dancing was back when I was married . . . back when I was happily married, come to think of it. Dear God, it had been ages. Out on the dance floor I ran into my friend Stefania, a lively young Italian girl I'd met recently in a meditation class in Ubud, and we danced together, hair flying everywhere, blond and dark, spinning merrily around. Sometime after midnight, the band stopped playing and people mingled.

我很久没去酒吧了。即使在意大利，我也不上酒吧；和大卫的那几年间，我也很少出门。我想上回去跳舞是已婚的时候……这么说来，是在我婚姻愉快的时候。老天爷，那是几百年前的事了。我在舞池碰上我的朋友史黛芬妮亚，她是最近我在乌布上禅修课时所认识的一位活泼的意大利姑娘；我们一起跳舞，头发飞扬，金发与黑发，欢乐地旋转。午夜过后，乐团停止演奏，大家互相交谈。

That's when I met the guy named Ian. Oh, I really liked this guy. Right away I really liked him. He was very good-looking, in a kind of Sting-meets-Ralph-Fiennes's-younger-brother sort of way. He was Welsh, so he had that lovely voice. He was articulate, smart, asked questions, spoke to my friend Stefania in the same baby Italian that I speak. It turned out that he was the drummer in this reggae band, that he played bongos. So I made a joke that he was a "bonga-leer," like those guys in Venice, but with percussion instead of boats, and somehow we hit it off, started laughing and talking.

我就在此时认识了名叫伊恩的家伙。喔，我真喜欢这家伙。我真的一见面就喜欢他。他非常好看，结合史汀（Sting）与雷夫·范恩斯（Ralph Fiennes）的弟弟那一类。他是威尔士人，因此嗓音好听。他善于表达，很聪明，很会问问题，跟我一样用牙牙学语的意大利语和我的朋友史黛芬妮亚谈话。结果他竟然是雷鬼乐团的鼓手，敲手鼓。于是我开玩笑说他是"鼓夫"，像威尼斯船夫，只不过不划船而玩鼓，不知怎么回事，我们一拍即合，开始谈笑。