寿司的灵魂并不在鱼
日期:2018-03-03 07:20

(单词翻译:单击)

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Whole Foods? Refrigerated section by the fish on ice. 7-11? Beside the fruit cups in light syrup.
全食超市冷藏食品区的冰鲜鱼当口有寿司;7-11什锦水果杯旁边有寿司OfJzY]3%oY,
Trader Joe’s? By the packaged sausage. It is everywhere.
乔氏超市包装香肠旁边也有ltBtIv-*GJ4|b。寿司可谓无处不在PoHoR7H_jr
But as sushi made its way into foodies’ hearts across the globe,
然而,在寿司成为全世界吃货心头之好之前,
one thing has persisted in making sushi sushi.
有一个东西一直在出力,寿司才得以有今天的成就jo^&dpC)Dg
And it’s right there in the name.
而这个东西就在“寿司”的名字里3NxyS=*jkR!=Zev|h8es
The word “sushi” actually refers, not to the fish,
其实,“寿司”这个名字指的并不是鱼肉,
but to the rice that was originally used to preserve the fish.
而是原本用来给鱼肉保鲜的米|[C@z)MtA,ZR&T
Some of the earliest documentation of sushi comes from China thousands of years ago.
记录寿司的史料最早出现在几千年前的中国)=yy7#ddjs[
During the monsoon season, floods pushed fish into rice paddies
雨季来临,大水将鱼冲到各处的稻田,
and farmers who caught the fish needed a way to store them for extended periods of time.
农民把鱼捞上来以后就要想办法让鱼保存更长的时间]o4Z,0[VHSHw]1X
So they salted the whole fish, packed it under weights with cooked rice, and sealed it in a barrel.
于是,他们给鱼撒上盐,把鱼埋到煮熟的米饭底下,然后封进桶里c54oppY#1L%hz
Months later, bacteria had converted sugars in the rice into lactic acid, which helped prevent the fish from spoiling.
数月之后,米饭中的糖类经细菌转化成乳酸,就能防止鱼肉腐败D5*=Z1*edcB_yYdub~
The pickled fish was eaten and the rice was tossed out.
最后人们扔掉米饭,食用腌鱼c9BShLpC;.Hl]
This preservation method spread to Japan around the 8th century,
公元八世纪左右,这一储存方法传入日本,
where they later shortened the fermentation time and began eating the sour-tasting rice with the fish.
日本人缩短了鱼肉发酵的时间,将带有酸味的米饭连同鱼肉一起食用LvvIUA.v619|
And when rice vinegar was invented around 1600,
等到1600年左右米酒出现以后,
it was used to flavor the rice instead of waiting for it to ferment.
人们便不再采用自然发酵的方式,转而用米酒来提升米饭的口感u0T-,-VnehEJ+)jW
Later, the invention of nori sometime before the 19th century led to maki, or rolled sushi.
再后来,紫菜在19世纪之前的某个时间点出现了,紫菜的发明促成了寿司卷的出现C7V^(+JZ*.vR
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18th century sushi was often 3 to 4 times bigger than what we see today
十八世纪的寿司通常是我们今天看到的寿司的3-4倍,
and was served as a street food in Japan.
那时还只是一种街头小吃^iojPm,8;OM
As it moved indoors, restaurants wanted to distinguish their sushi as more refined,
随着寿司走进餐厅,各大餐厅便想把寿司做得更加精致,以便与别家不同#@^9xEtUMYHI
so they started making the petite nigiri we know today.
于是便有了我们今天看到的指握寿司GnwhV[U1(gc1-fkr
Only after the invention of refrigeration in the 20th century did raw fish sushi become more common.
一直到了二十世纪冰箱出现以后,生鱼寿司才变得越来越普遍h@O+VvN@eekP+D
In the 1960s, sushi landed in the US and ended up at the first American sushi bar, Kawafuku, in Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo.
二十世纪六十年代,寿司登陆美国市场,从而有了位于洛杉矶“小东京”的美国第一家寿司吧“川福”RaZ4jiE~1]RSRI]G(*
It eventually became popular all across the US by the 1980s and the rest is history.
到了八十年代,寿司在美国已经红遍了大江南北,
Sushi rolls in particular are continuing to make their mark in American cuisine.
寿司,尤其是寿司卷今后仍将在美国料理中占有一席之地*H8oiP@-j,wRSc*
You’ve got the Philly roll with its very unJapanese ingredient of Philadelphia cream cheese,
我们已经有了放非常不日本的费城奶油乳酪的“费城卷”m_k9OoY|f]|DCi
the the California roll made with avocados and fake crab meat.
有用牛油果和人工蟹肉做的加州卷,
And many many more nontraditional ingredients.
除了这些还有很多采用非传统食材的寿司Uc&Lw|l!uL7y+=yKdBl
"Oh my God! The sushi burrito is living."
“天啦,这个寿司玉米饼看着像活的一样,wHNU|ZxqD|b).W。”
"This is deep-fried sushi."
“这个是炸寿司9~3os3%F7G,=z|EXHh。”
It was also in the States where the maki roll was turned inside-out,
寿司也是在美国开始从米饭卷肉变成了肉卷米饭的,
reportedly in response to an American squeamishness about seaweed.
据说是因为有个美国人太喜欢吃海苔了][d|+S8V88OWoY)B2
But through it all, the flavor of the vinegared rice is still a staple,
然而,尽管经历了各种变化,酸米饭仍然是寿司最主要的味道,
tying today’s sushi back to its very practical past.
它传承着寿司的朴实c@b%JGb[]D

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