三天两晚 在曼哈顿度一个完美周末
日期:2015-04-08 15:32

(单词翻译:单击)

The isle of Manhattan is small, but bustling. From Chinatown to Little India, there are so many diverse neighborhoods, even micro-neighborhoods, that offer such distinct experiences that it you can turn a corner and feel that you have entered another world. But many New Yorkers would admit that, more broadly, there are two Manhattans: Uptown and Downtown.
曼哈顿岛不大,却熙熙攘攘。从唐人街(Chinatown)到小印度(Little India),那里有许许多多不同的社区,甚至是微型社区,生活风貌千差万别,你只要拐个弯,就会觉得自己进入了另一个世界。但是许多纽约客都认为,大体上看,纽约有两个曼哈顿:上城区(Uptown)和下城区(Downtown)。

But what separates the two? That might depend on whom you ask. Someone might tell you that Downtown, home to galleries and the Financial District has a certain edge and energy, compared to the polish of Uptown’s parks, museums and posh department stores. But others may have a more literal answer: Downtown Manhattan extends from the southern-most tip of the island, ending at 34th street, while Uptown Manhattan truly begins with Central Park, at 59th street. What is in between? Midtown of course, but that’s another story.
但上城区和下城区该如何划分?也许那就得看你问的人是谁了。有些人可能会告诉你,下城区是各大画廊云集之处,而且这个金融行政区(Financial District)有着某种锐气与活力,不同于上城区那些光鲜亮丽的公园、博物馆和时尚的百货商店。但其他人可能回答得更实在:曼哈顿下城区起于此岛的最南端,止于34街;而上城区实际上从59街的中央公园(Central Park)开始。那么中间是哪儿呢?当然是中城区(Midtown)啦。不过,那就是另外一回事了。
Downtown
Downtown/下城区篇
Friday:
星期五
1. Ground Zero: 3pm
1. 参观世贸大厦遗址(Ground Zero):下午3点
Visit the place where the World Trade Center’s “Twin Towers” stood before the devastating attacks on September 11, 2001. The 9/11 Museum and Memorial at “Ground Zero” is a 110,000 square foot exhibition space dedicated to those who died in the attacks in Manhattan, at the Pentagon in Washington, DC and on Flight 93. The museum space is divided into three historical exhibitions: before 9/11, the day of the attacks and then life after 9/11. Watch a film called “Rebirth at Ground Zero” in the Education Center to get a first hand account of the space’s journey from the site of severe wreckage to monument to the strength of New York City and America. General admission is $25 for adults and $15 for children, but download the mobile app for a free guide to the memorial. A children’s guide is also available, but be warned if traveling as a family; some of the exhibits about what happened on 9/11 might be tough for children to handle.
参观一下在2001年9月11日那场惨绝人寰的袭击发生之前,原世贸中心(World Trade Center)“双子塔”(Twin Towers)的所在地吧。这座位于世贸大厦遗址的博物馆与纪念馆,是一处面积11万平方英尺(约10219平方米)的展览空间,用于纪念在那次曼哈顿袭击、华盛顿特区五角大楼以及当时的93次航班上罹祸身亡的人。该博物馆分为三个历史展区:9·11之前的面貌、袭击当日的情况,以及9·11之后的生活。参观者还可以在教育中心(Education Center)观看一部影片,名为“世贸大厦遗址的重生”(Rebirth at Ground Zero)。通过这些一手资料,了解该博物馆如何从断壁残垣的废墟,变成了见证纽约与美国强大力量的纪念碑。普通门票的价格为成人25美元(约合人民币157元),儿童15美元(约合人民币94元),但你可以下载一个免费的纪念馆参观指南手机软件,儿童参观指南也有,但最好全家一起参观,因为关于9·11当天袭击的部分展览内容可能不适宜儿童观看。
2. Cocktails and Dinner at Minetta Tavern: 6pm
2. 品尝敏奈塔酒馆(Minetta Tavern)的鸡尾酒与晚餐:下午6点
Greenwich Village, famously once home to New York’s Beat poets, jazz musicians, artists and Bohemians, is still home to Minetta Tavern, whose old oak bar is perfect for leaning on while sipping a draught or classic cocktail before dinner. The tavern opened in the 1937, but when restaurateur Keith McNally took the reins a few years ago, the place was given new life—though not an entirely new look. After a drink at the bar, slide in to one of the rich red booths in the back for some classic French fair: roasted bone marrow spread on crisp pieces of toasted baguette ($21), a Mesclun Salad ($15) or Norwegian smoked salmon appetizers ($20) are the perfect precursor to one of the restaurant’s two burger options ($20 or $28) or the Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf for two ($145).
众所周知,格林威治村(Greenwich Village)曾经是“垮掉的一代”诗人、爵士音乐家、艺术家与波西米亚人聚集的地方,现在也仍旧是敏奈塔酒馆的所在地。酒吧里古老的橡木吧台,最适合靠着喝杯小酒或餐前鸡尾酒。这家酒馆从1937年起就开始营业了,但前几年基思麦克纳利餐厅(Keith McNally)的兴起,使这个地方改头换面了,尽管看上去变化并不大。在酒吧里喝过一巡,然后溜到后面一个大红色的摊位上来些经典的法式大排档:香脆烤面包配骨髓酱(21美元[约合人民币132元])、法国蔬菜沙拉(15美元[约合人民币94元])或挪威烟熏三文鱼头盘(20美元[约合人民币125元]),这几道都是最好的餐前开胃菜,搭配该店两款汉堡主食(一款20美元[约合人民币125元],一款28美元[约合人民币176元])中的任意一款都可以,或那道两人份的干式熟成法式牛排(Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf,145美元[约合人民币909元])。
3. Late Jazz Session at The Blue Note: 10:30pm
3. 听听蓝调俱乐部(The Blue Note)的爵士乐:晚上10点半
After dinner and a stroll around Washington Square Park and through Greenwich Village, pop in to Blue Note Jazz Club on West 3rd Street. Blue Note, one of the city’s most famous venues for jazz music, features performances at 8pm and 10:30pm nightly with a varying line up that’s sure to please on any evening you happen to wander in. Get there a bit early-- the space is cramped, so be prepared to sit close to those at the table next to you-- and remember it’s all a part of the ambiance. Tickets for 10:30pm sessions range from $35-45.
吃完晚餐,在华盛顿广场公园(Washington Square Park)散散步,然后穿过格林威治村,来到西3街(West 3rd Street)的蓝调爵士俱乐部(Blue Note Jazz Club)。这里是纽约最著名的爵士乐演奏地之一,每晚8点至10点半都有丰富多样的音乐表演,保证你不管哪天晚上逛到这里,都会尽兴而归。尽量早点来吧,因为地方太狭小了,所以你得做好准备,尽量与同桌的人坐得近一些,不过别忘了,这也是现场气氛的一部分。10点半的晚场门票从35美元(约合人民币220元)至45美元(约合人民币282元)不等。
Saturday:
星期六
4. Russ and Daughters for Bagel and Schmear: 9am
4. 尝尝多斯特餐厅(Russ and Daughters)的百吉饼和奶油芝士:上午9点
A hot coffee and a bagel with schmear is a quintessential New York City breakfast and nobody does cream cheese and smoked fish quite like Russ and Daughters specialty grocery on East Houston Street on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Walk in, grab a ticket and wait for your number to be called while you peruse their array of smoked salmon, white fish, caviars, rugala, fruits, nuts and other sweet treats. Craft your ideal bagel with all of the fixings, or order by the pound ($36 per pound for Belly Lox, $40 per pound for Gaspe Nova Smoked Salmon) and take it to go. If you’re picking up for a picnic in one of the nearby parks, and caviar is what you crave, there is no shortage of options. This grocery sells a variety of roe and packages of the thin Blini pancakes that make for a classic pairing.
一杯热咖啡,和一块加了奶油芝士的百吉饼,就是典型的纽约早餐。但任何一家店的奶油芝士与烟熏鱼都比不上这家位于曼哈顿下东区(Lower East Side)东休斯顿街(East Houston Street)的多斯特餐厅(Russ and Daughters)特色食品店。走进来,取张票,等待叫号的时候,仔细看看店里成排的烟熏三文鱼、白鱼、鱼籽酱、起酥卷、水果、坚果和其他甜品。想想怎么用这些配料来组成你最完美的百吉饼早餐吧,或者按磅买单(熏三文鱼腩[Belly Lox]每磅36美元[约合人民币256元],加斯佩新式烟熏三文鱼[Gaspe Nova Smoked Salmon]每磅40美元[约合人民币251元]),然后带走。如果你正打算去附近的某个公园野餐,要为此买些食物,又特别想吃鱼籽酱,就可以在这里尽情挑选了。这家食品店销售各种各样的鱼籽,还有包装好的薄煎饼皮,正好配成一款经典组合。
5. High Line: 11am
5. 高线公园(High Line):上午11点
On a sunny day, the perfect place to walk off a hearty breakfast is the High Line on the west side. Spanning from Gansevoort Street to West 34th Street between 10th and 12th Avenues, the elevated park was once an out-of –use railway track. Today it’s a popular green space that runs along the Hudson River and through the buzzing Meatpacking and Chelsea neighborhoods. Kiosks selling snacks and beverages will keep kids satisfied along the way and the benches that line the narrow park are perfect for taking a rest or snapping a “selfie” before walking back down to the city streets.
要在一个阳光明媚的日子出门散散步,消化一下丰盛的早餐,最好的去处便是西边的高线公园(High Line)了。这座高架公园从甘斯沃尔特街(Gansevoort Street)一直延伸到第十大道(10th Avenues)与十二大道(12th Avenues)间的西34街(West 34th Street),沿着休斯顿河(Hudson River)穿过熙熙攘攘的肉类加工区(Meatpacking)和切尔西(Chelsea)的居住区。这里有许多贩卖零食与饮料的小铺,可以把孩子们一路上哄得心满意足。而且,沿着这座狭窄的公园一字排开的长椅,也很适合游人坐下来休息一会儿,或在走回城市街道之前,来张自拍什么的。
6. Lunch at Chelsea Market: 1pm
6. 去切尔西市场(Chelsea Market)吃午餐:下午1点
There’s something for everyone at Chelsea Market. Under the High Line this food hall style market is chock full of stalls selling everything from flowers to tacos to artisanal cheeses and freshly baked breads. Most of the vendors represent small New York businesses and the market takes up an entire city block (between 15th and 16th streets), so be sure to take a lap around to survey the offerings before deciding what to eat for lunch. It’s a perfect stop after a morning spent walking along the west side, either window shopping or just taking in the breeze from the Hudson River.
每个人都会在切尔西市场(Chelsea Market)有所收获。在这个美食广场风格的市场里,挤满了贩售各种东西的小商铺,从鲜花到烤玉米饼,再到手工芝士与新鲜出炉的面包,应有尽有。这里的大多数商贩代表着纽约本地的小行当,而且这个市场占据了一整条街区(在15街与16街之间),所以一定要好好逛一逛。先去每家都看一看,再决定午餐吃些什么。早上无论是走马观花地逛逛街,还是在哈德逊河边吹吹风,在西区散完步后,来这里落脚休息一下是再好不过了。
7. The New Museum: 3:00pm
7. 参观新博物馆(New Museum):下午3点
After lunch, head back east for a visit at The New Museum. The contemporary art museum’s 2015 Triennial, titled “Surround Audience,” is in full swing, showcasing more than fifty-one artists from twenty-five countries around the world. The ticket ($18) gives you access to the museum’s five floors of gallery space, plus the Sky Room, which offers a panoramic view of downtown Manhattan. A free, guided tour starts at 3pm.
吃过了午餐,往东边走走,去参观一下新博物馆(New Museum)吧。在这座现代艺术博物馆里,一场名为“围观”(Surround Audience)的2015年度三年展(2015 Triennial)正在如火如荼地进行当中,全世界共有25个国家的超过51名艺术家参展。此次展出的门票(18美元[约合人民币113元])让你可以参观该博物馆上下五层的画廊空间,还包括那间空中展室(Sky Room),从那里可以观看曼哈顿下城区的全景。免费的导游服务从下午三点开始。
8. Dinner at Estela: 7pm
8. 在埃斯特拉(Estela)餐厅吃晚餐:晚上7点
Once dinnertime rolls around, head to Estela, a small, upstairs restaurant that feels tucked away, even on Houston Street, a main downtown thoroughfare. President Obama and the First Lady dined here last fall on a visit to New York City. If that’s not reason enough to check it out, the wine list is extensive, and the menu of Mediterranean inspired dishes, like the Burrata with salsa verde and charred bread ($17), are just right for sharing with a group.
晚餐时间一到,直奔埃斯特拉吧。这是一家开在楼上的小餐馆,感觉很僻静,即便那里靠着下城区的一条主干道豪斯顿街(Houston Street)。奥巴马总统与第一夫人去年秋天来纽约的时候,曾在这里吃过晚餐。如果这个原因还不足以让你来看看,那么这里还有各式各样的红酒及地中海式菜肴,比如意大利袋形芝士配欧芹酱(Burrata with salsa verde)和碳烤面包(charred bread),正好可以多人分享。
9. Night Cap at the Bowery Hotel: 10pm
9. 在柏威里酒店(Bowery Hotel)饮杯睡前酒:晚上10点
The Lobby Bar at The Bowery Hotel keeps many of the high-backed armchairs and the prime seating on perfectly broken in couches reserved for hotel guests. But the hominess of space, which feels like one of the city’s most opulent old living rooms, might be worth price of a suite. There’s a second bar, on the second floor, that’s more expansive and not exclusive to guests. There you’ll find outdoor space that’s just right for one last drink before the Saturday night partying crowd takes over.
柏威里酒店里的这家大堂酒吧,为酒店的客人们准备了许多高背扶手椅,以及一些组合沙发。但这里的亲切感就像纽约市某家最豪华的老客厅,也许值得上一套正装的价格。二楼还有一间酒吧,消费更高,而且不只对酒店顾客开放。你可以在那里找个露天的地方坐着,在星期六晚的派对人潮蜂拥而至之前,最后再喝上一杯。
Sunday:
星期天
10. Down for Dim Sum: 11 am
10. 去吃早茶:上午11点
Nom Wah Tea Parlor is the city’s oldest dim sum destination. Brunch on Doyers Street will put you in the heart of Chinatown, so after a few orders of Sticky Rice with Chinese Sausage ($4), the Cilantro and Scallion Rice ($3.50) or the Taro Dumplings ($4) take a stroll around the vibrant lower Manhattan neighborhood, which is also sometimes called “Two Bridges” on your way toward either of the near by bridges that cross the East River: the Manhattan Bridge or the Brooklyn Bridge. Walking all the way across either one will take you in to Brooklyn, but just making it half way across and looking back provides nice views of downtown and a nice post-meal walk.
南华茶楼(Nom Wah Tea Parlor)是纽约市最古老的一家供应早茶的餐厅。在多耶斯街(Doyers Street)享用早午餐时,你就将置身于唐人街的中心地带。所以,吃完中式腊肠糯米饭(4美元[约合人民币25元]),芫荽香葱炒饭(3.5美元[约合人民币22元])或芋头酥(4美元[约合人民币25元])后,就在曼哈顿下城区这片生机勃勃的社区里散散步吧。这里有时候也被称为“双桥”(Two Bridges),因为你往附近走走就会发现,两边各有一座大桥横跨东河(East River):曼哈顿大桥(Manhattan Bridge)与布鲁克林大桥(Brooklyn Bridge)。无论通过哪座桥都可进入布鲁克林区,但走到桥中间时,停下来回头看看,你就能看到美丽的下城区风景。这会是一次愉快的饭后散步活动。
Uptown:
Uptown/上城区篇
Friday
星期五
1. Row Your Boat: 2:30pm
1. 去划船吧:下午2点半
The Loeb Boathouse in Central Park opened in 1954 and remains as a landmark in the more than 840-acre green-space. Make your way there and rent a rowboat ($15 an hour, with a $20 cash deposit). Each boat will fit up to four people, but if your group is larger, gondola rides are available for up to six people ($30 for half an hour). Afterward, head back to the boathouse for an afternoon snack. There is indoor and outdoor dining, right along the water, as well as an express café, which is open until 5pm daily.
中央公园(Central Park)的罗艾柏船屋(Loeb Boathouse)于1954年开业,在这片面积超过840英亩(约340公顷)的绿地中,这座船屋一直是个地标。到那里去租条小船划一划(收费每小时15美元[约合人民币94元],另需再付20美元[约合人民币125元]的押金)。每条船可以搭乘四人,但如果你们人多,可以租一条能坐下六人的贡多拉(每半小时30美元[约合人民币188元])。划完了,再回到船屋里吃些下午的点心。这里有室内就餐区,也有毗邻水边的户外就餐区,还有咖啡外卖服务,每天营业至下午5点。
2. Madison Avenue Stroll: 4pm
2. 在麦迪逊大道(Madison Avenue)散个步:下午4点
Exit the park on the east side and walk to Madison Avenue for prime window-shopping. The street was once known for it’s advertising firms, much like the one depicted in the television drama “Mad Men” but today it’s home to some of the city’s most lux retailers. Stroll past the boutiques of Christian Louboutin, Prada, Ralph Lauren and visit one of the most famous department stores in the city: Barney’s New York. If you’re not interested in shopping, head to Fred’s, the restaurant on the 9th floor. As any restaurant that is situated so close to fitting rooms should, it offers several salads-- The Vegan ($19) or a Caesar with chicken ($27), along with the heartier options like the 5th Street Cuban sandwich ($19).
离开公园的东边,走到麦迪逊大道(Madison Avenue)去看看沿途商店的橱窗。这条大街曾因广告公司云集而出名,像极了美剧《广告狂人》(Mad Men)里的场景。但如今,这里坐落着一批纽约市最奢华的零售商店。你可以一路经过克里斯提·鲁布托(Christian Louboutin)、普拉达(Prada)、拉尔夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)等精品店,去看看这座城市最著名的百货商店之一——纽约巴尼斯百货公司(Barney’s New York)。如果你对购物不感兴趣,不妨直奔位于此商场第九层的弗雷德餐厅(Fred’s)。正如所有商场里的餐厅一样,这里有若干种沙拉供应——素食沙拉(19美元[约合人民币119元])或鸡肉凯撒沙拉(27美元[约合人民币169元]),此外还有一些更亲切的食物,如第五街古巴三明治(19美元[约合人民币119元])。
3. A Room with a View: 8pm
3. 看得见风景的房间:晚上8点
For a great panoramic view of Central Park and the surrounding skyscrapers, head to the Mandarin Oriental hotel’s Lobby Lounge for an evening drink. The five star hotel, is in the Time Warner Center on Columbus Circle, and the bar is quiet and sophisticated. There are classic, as well as modern specialty cocktails ($22) on their bar menu which changes seasonally.
为了更好地观赏中央公园的全景,以及周边的都市景观,不妨到文华东方酒店(Mandarin Oriental hotel)的大堂酒廊里喝一杯。这座五星级酒店位于哥伦布环岛(Columbus Circle)的时代华纳中心(Time Warner Center),酒吧非常典雅,也非常安静。这里提供一些经典的酒类饮品,也有一些现代的特调鸡尾酒(22美元[约合人民币138元])。酒吧的饮品单会按季更新。
Saturday:
星期六
4. Better Brunch: 11am
4. 更好的早午餐:上午11点
For a classic brunch, head back to Central Park. Tavern on The Green reopened last April, after a four-year-long closure. Now renovated, the restaurant, which first opened in 1934, is another iconic Central Park landmark and a nice place to start a spring day with a basket of pastries from Balthazar Bakery ($11) or a stack of buttermilk pancakes ($19). Feeling indulgent? Add a pitcher of Vermont maple syrup and another of melted butter for pouring ($9).
想要品尝一顿经典的早午餐?回到中央公园来吧。绿苑酒廊(Tavern on The Green)在长达四年的停业后,于去年四月重新开张。这家1934年初次营业的餐厅现已翻修一新,是中央公园里的另一处标志性建筑,也是春日里开始一天生活的好地方。你可以来一篮巴尔萨泽面包房(Balthazar Bakery)的酥皮点心(11美元[约合人民币69元]),或一叠酪乳煎饼(19美元[约合人民币119元])。要任性一点吗?再添一壶佛蒙特州枫糖浆和一份稀黄油,倒在上面吧(9美元[约合人民币56元])。
5. Chinese Whispers: 1pm
5. 中国风:下午1点
This spring the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art have collaborated for an exhibition called “China: Through the Looking Glass,” on display from May 7 to August 16. The show coincides with the Met Costume Ball, hosted annually by Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue. The party is one of the fashion industry’s biggest nights in New York. Designers and celebrities walk the red carpet in clothes inspired by the exhibit, which consists of couture and traditional Chinese costume, along with painting, film and sculpture. Visit the collection that inspired this year’s theme. A donation to the museum is recommended upon entry.
今年春天,纽约大都会艺术博物馆(Metropolitan Museum of Art)、时装学院(Costume Institute)和亚洲艺术部(Department of Asian Art)将联合举办一场名为“中国:镜花水月”(China: Through the Looking Glass)的展览,展期从5月7日至8月16日。这次展览刚好与《服饰与美容》(Vogue)杂志的主编安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)每年举办的“红毯礼服秀”(Met Costume Ball)同时举行。这个派对可是纽约时尚界的一大盛事,许多设计师与明星走过红毯,他们所穿的服饰都从这次展览中获得了灵感。此次展览不仅包括高级时装与传统的中国服饰,还有绘画、电影与雕塑作品。所以,来看看今年时尚主题的灵感之源吧。建议在博物馆入口处投一点捐款。
6. Shop ‘Til You Drop: 3pm
6. 买到你手软:下午3点
There is so much luxury shopping to be done uptown that it can be overwhelming. The multi-level flagship stores of French brands like Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Cartier are all located within walking distance of each other (though the famous Cartier mansion is currently under renovation, so shoppers will now find their baubles at the temporary location on Fifth Avenue and 59th street) if you’re willing to brave the crowds in the popular shopping district. Stop in to Bergdorf Goodman, an iconic New York City department stores, for a slightly more contained shopping experience. There is a shoe salon on the second floor, a fur salon on the fourth, a bridal salon on the seventh floor and an actual beauty salon (the John Barrett Salon) on the ninth ($125 for a haircut, $75 for a pedicure). Wary shoppers may enjoy the afternoon tea service from 3-5pm in the BG Restaurant (located on the seventh floor) where there is also a full bar, in case tea just won’t cut it.
上城区有许多购买奢侈品的地方,简直让人买东西买到手软!如果你不惧怕这个大众购物区里的汹涌人潮的话,一些法国品牌——如爱马仕(Hermès)、路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)和卡地亚(Cartier),它们那占据好几层楼的旗舰店都相距不过几步路之遥(不过著名的卡地亚大厦正在翻修,所以买家们可以去第五大道与59街交汇处的临时门店里淘点小饰品)。然后走进纽约市标示性的百货商店波道夫·古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)逛一逛,享受一下更为从容不迫的购物体验。商店二楼有一处鞋履沙龙,四楼有一处皮草沙龙,七楼有一家婚礼用品沙龙,九楼还有一间很不错的美容沙龙,名叫the John Barrett Salon(理发一次125美元[约合人民币784元],美甲一次75美元[约合人民币470元])。而那些在购物方面较为谨慎的消费者,也许会更喜欢下午3到5点间在BG餐厅(BG Restaurant,位于商店七楼)享用下午茶。如果你觉得喝茶还不过瘾的话,那里还有一个提供全方位服务的酒吧。
7. New York History: 5pm
7. 了解纽约的历史:下午5点
The American Museum of Natural History is a favorite of children and adults alike. The vast museum’s classic dioramas have been made only more famous by their appearances in the recent Night at the Museum movies. But just across 77th street, The New York Historical society brings the past to life in a different way. The museum and library are full of artifacts from New York’s distant, and not so distant history, and provide great context for the city, as it exists today. It’s not nearly as large as the Natural History Museum, but even a quick visit is worth the price of admission: $19.
美国自然历史博物馆(American Museum of Natural History)是孩子们最爱去的地方,成年人也是一样。这家大型博物馆里的那些经典的实景模型,曾经出现在系列电影《博物馆奇妙夜》(Night at the Museum)里,所以就变得越发有名了。不过只要穿过77街,纽约市历史协会(New York Historical society)就把这座城市的过去以一种完全不同的方式呈现了出来。在这家博物馆兼图书馆中,展示了大量历史悠久的以及来自近当代纽约的手工制品,可以让我们了解这座城市是如何变成了今天的样子。虽然这座博物馆远没有自然历史博物馆的规模大,但即便走马观花地参观一下,也能值回票价了:19美元(约合人民币119元)。
8. Locally Sourced: 8pm
8.当地特色美食:晚上8点
Make a reservation to have dinner across town at The East Pole and get a taste of what New York State has to offer by way of delicious, local produce, meats and cheeses. The restaurant, located in a refurbished brownstone building, embodies the farm to table concept that’s become an expectation at so many new restaurants in the city. While they also use dairy and livestock from Vermont and New Hampshire, a nice selection of ingredients come from right here in New York State, including the fish in a fresh fluke crudo ($18) and a delicate rosé ($13 for a glass, $50 for a bottle) from Long Island.
在本区另一端的东极餐厅(The East Pole)预订一个晚餐位吧,尝一尝以本地产的鲜美肉制品与奶酪做的纽约州菜肴。这家餐厅位于一栋修葺一新的褐石建筑中,是一家奉行“从农田到餐桌”理念的餐厅,而这一理念已经成为纽约市内许多新餐厅的准则。虽然他们也会采购来自佛蒙特(Vermont)与新罕布什尔(New Hampshire)的奶制品及家畜类肉制品,但也有大批各种各样的原料就来自纽约州本地,包括一道生鱼片菜肴(18美元[约合人民币113元])中的鱼,和来自长岛(Long Island)的一种精致玫瑰酒(一杯13美元[约合人民币82元],一瓶50美元[约合人民币314元])。
Sunday:
星期天
9. Another Uptown: 10am
9. 再探上城区:上午10点
Fresh-squeezed or cold-pressed, healthy fruit and vegetable juices have taken over New York. But there are still places to enjoy a hearty breakfast; complete with eggs and a Bloody Mary. So take the train or a taxi way uptown to Harlem-- one of Manhattan’s most vibrant uptown neighborhoods. It’s the place to go for classic, America soul food. Carlos Swepson’s BLVD Bistro, on Malcolm X Boulevard, is a recent addition to neighborhood, but it’s taking Harlem history, with all of its southern influences, very seriously. Biscuit sandwiches come with cheese melted atop scrambled eggs and the choice of apple-smoked bacon or chicken apple sausage ($14) and there are seven types of cheese, plus more apple-smoked bacon, in the macaroni ($17). There are healthier options too: try the country oatmeal topped with banana, which is made even sweeter with cane sugar syrup ($9).
新鲜挤压或冷榨的健康果蔬汁已经占领了纽约。但仍然有地方可以享受一顿丰盛的早餐,最后再来几个鸡蛋和一杯血腥玛丽(Bloody Mary)。所以,搭乘轻轨或出租车到上城区的哈莱姆区(Harlem)去吧——这里是曼哈顿上城区最有活力的社区之一,也是品尝美国经典灵魂食品(soul food,美国黑人的传统食品——译注)的地方。卡洛斯·斯万普森(Carlos Swepson)在马尔科姆艾克斯大道(Malcolm X Boulevard)开设的BLVD Bistro餐厅,是最近才加入这个社区的商家,但它的南方特色风味,显示出其对于哈莱姆历史的重视。这里有酪乳面包三明治配芝士炒蛋,还可以选择苹果木烟熏培根或鸡肉苹果香肠(14美元[约合人民币88元]),还有放了七种芝士和更多苹果木熏培根的通心粉(17美元[约合人民币107元])。这里也有一些更健康的饮食选择:试试那款表面覆有香蕉的乡村燕麦粥(9美元[约合人民币56元])吧,做得比甘蔗糖浆还要甜。
10. Björk in 3D: 12:30pm
10. 3D比约克(Björk):中午12:30
Okay, so MoMA is just below Central Park, but The Modern Museum of Art ia always worth a visit and its retrospective of work by the Icelandic artist and musician Björk pushes the boundaries, even for a contemporary art exhibition. It incorporates over twenty years of the avant-garde performer’s music, costumes, videos, objects, even diaries that took three years to develop. The central work is an audio tour called “Songlines” that will require visitors to secure a timed ticket at no additional cost to the price of general admission ($25). The exhibition is sprinkled through the museum—music from her album “Biophilia” plays in the lobby, there is another audio exhibit, especially commissioned for the museum, on the second floor. The presentation continues with “Songlines” on the third floor. Timed tickets for the experience become available at 10:30am daily, and a wait is to be expected.
好吧,现代艺术博物馆(Modern Museum of Art)就在中央公园下方,这家博物馆无论如何都值得去看看,而且其中的冰岛艺术家与音乐家比约克的怀旧作品展,即便作为一场现代艺术展来看也十分前卫。馆内收藏了这位先锋表演艺术家20多年来的音乐、服饰、影像、物品,甚至是一些日记。这些物品一共花了三年时间才收藏齐全。该展的重头戏是一场名为“歌的版图”(Songlines)的有声之旅,要求每位参观者领取一张计次门票,但它不会在博物馆普通票价(25美元[约合人民币157元])的基础上另行收费。这场展览散布在馆内的各个角落,大堂里播放着比约克专辑《Biophilia》中的音乐;二楼还设有一处专门为该博物馆打造的有声展;而来到三楼,就能看到“歌的版图”的演示部分了。此特展的计次门票每天上午10:30开始发放,可能需要排队等候。

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