英国“炸鱼薯条”的时代要过去了?(3)
日期:2023-10-12 10:30

(单词翻译:单击)

x+4+&MLR!mL_D,;uO-mdJz3f-1&K2)uoKf

I visited the East Neuk several times during that difficult year: in high tourist season, in the eerie quiet of winter, in the limbo between.

-fGUW_LKlGHQaC+o3

在那艰难的一年里,我去了东纽克好几次:在旅游旺季,在死寂的冬季,在中间状态的平季nZNMQs([goaC6fPC

qhnq5(s+iQDys

As a national industry foundered, I wanted to document what it was like for a group of friers as they were brought to the brink, competing against each other even as they helped each other out, always prepping for tomorrow, cooking for today, running their numbers at night, trying not to become yet another fish and chip shop that disappeared.

O(0q~V[3hySs]M

随着一个全国性产业的衰落,我想对一群处于崩溃边缘的油炸商贩的样子进行记录]YeawNU5QvM%gf9。这些油炸商贩相互竞争,即使他们也会互相帮助,总是为明天做准备,为今天做餐食,在夜里算账本,努力不成为又一家消失的炸鱼薯条店@VMbJDr*N%_#zvpr0ECG

+=|bjnf8Q0qnNYP2s

Between July 2022 and July 2023, things got tougher and sadder in the East Neuk than anybody predicted they would.

bTk&Jm5,=w)H3#C

从2022年7月到2023年7月,东纽克的情况比任何人预测的都要艰难和凄惨cLYHdJYtRUc

-Vna#-k0h**&)gq1[K&z

By the time I made my last visit, people were in mourning, having said goodbye to a beloved local figure who gave their all to a cherished, suddenly endangered trade; and it was no longer so difficult to imagine a world without fish and chips.

[y#nnqq7#p2FNboHwxZ

我最后一次前往该地的时候,人们都沉浸在哀悼中,人们告别了当地一位受人爱戴的人物,这位逝者把自己的一切都献给了一项受到珍视的、突然濒临灭绝的行业;想象一个没有炸鱼和薯条的世界不再那么困难了mn_~PZtzSd)5C

lL9C_9sD=@q&

The origin question, wrote the historian John Walton in his definitive history of the dish, “is a matter of murky and probably insoluble dispute”.

00EAzKkZM~sY

历史学家约翰·沃尔顿在关于这道菜肴的权威性历史著作中写道,起源问题“是一个含糊不清的、可能无法解决的争议问题”e;TU6&l#tzt8

[aCPtYhBh0

Should Londoners take the most credit for its creation and proliferation, or Lancastrians? The textile towns around Manchester or the fishing ports of Scotland?

KMFs+rJ4B4E[OZPg

应该把创造和繁荣这道菜肴的功劳归功于伦敦人,还是兰开斯特人?是曼彻斯特周围的纺织小镇,还是苏格兰的渔港?

,-K(54Ey@W[.^AJ

Undoubtedly, fish and chips is immigrant food, imported, perfected and perpetuated by a mish-mash of refugees and others originating from Portugal, Spain, eastern Europe, Italy, Cyprus, Greece and China.

|_soBwZF[P0Plq

毫无疑问,炸鱼薯条是一种移民食物,由来自葡萄牙、西班牙、东欧、意大利、塞浦路斯、希腊和中国的难民和其他人带入英国,并进行融合、完善,最后延续至今1!-t5im%(3eoVrdZ%v

jlV9qYNYHpO

The method of deep-frying white fish in a liquid batter made of flour and egg or milk was likely brought over to London by Jews in flight from Catholic inquisitors.

a67J2,_qAo6=fV6

用面粉、鸡蛋或牛奶制成的面糊油炸白鱼的方法很可能是犹太人在逃离天主教审判官时带到伦敦的@5O*[[Rkp1s92a4vflR1

;v|gQRp|w_V+hpAsvG

Walton and other food historians have identified chipped potatoes “in the French style” being sold from carts in the industrial Pennines as early as the 1860s.

xE%X=0#[oF=0Cr6T,X.

沃尔顿和其他食物史学家发现,早在19世纪60年代,工业发达的奔宁山脉(煤炭开采)就开始用手推车出售“法式”薯片UexvGLar|50

a]Q50|ECr2uZGfCBpmrN

Whether styled as chippy, chippie, chippery, chipper, fishery, fish bar or fish restaurant, whether given cheerful punning titles (the Haddock Paddock, the Plaice to Be) or rootsier names that acknowledged their founders (Jimmy’s, George’s, Low’s, Long’s), these shops proliferated through the 20th century, carpeting the land from the northernmost – Frankie’s, up in Shetland – all the way to the Smugglers, down on the tapering tip of Cornwall.

nXkP#+NG+IR%fV-bgx

无论店的风格是chippy、chippie、chippery、chipper、fishery、fish bar还是fish restaurant,无论店名使用的是令人愉悦的双关(the Haddock Paddock, the Plaice to Be),还是更接地气的以其创始人的名字命名(Jimmy’s、George’s、Low’s、Long’s),这些店在20世纪遍地开花,从最北边的设得兰群岛的Frankie’s,一直到康沃尔锥形尖端的SmugglersS;_JOc)PF;

P23%mU%wu.%~Gw[(th!iY;Vfm;H[Y%N.V~OzYpO2mb]2|F
分享到