米其林星级评选将让餐饮界付出代价(中)
日期:2023-09-15 11:00

(单词翻译:单击)

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Michelin’s inspection process, and the firewall it long maintained between the guides and the restaurant industry — no free meals, no sponsors, no advertising — have given it a special status.

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米其林的测评过程,以及它长期以来在指南和餐饮业之间建立的防火墙--不接受免费餐饮,不拉赞助商,不打广告--赋予了它特殊的地位3UdR-BT@Ms

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It is a costly undertaking (which used to be financed by the sales of hundreds of thousands of hardcover guides per year), but it has convinced consumers and chefs that Michelin makes all its decisions impartially.

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这是一项耗资巨大的事业(过去每年靠卖出数十万本精装指南筹集资金),但它让消费者和厨师相信,米其林做出的所有决定都是公正的;a[di&%bfu

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For Michelin’s first century, that was largely true, including for the first New York City guide, in 2005, and the San Francisco Bay and Napa Valley guides in 2007.

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在最初的一个世纪,很大程度上情况确实如此,包括2005年的第一本纽约市米其林指南,以及2007年的旧金山湾和纳帕谷指南[gGA!_Xm+~|7x]H8

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But only since 2019, when Visit California paid Michelin $600,000, have top restaurants in Los Angeles and elsewhere in the state earned stars.

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但直到2019年,“加州观光”向米其林支付了60万美元后,洛杉矶和加州其他地方的顶级餐厅才获得了米其林星星aA~8KRk#D6-TADKQ1

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So while it is still true that individual restaurants can’t buy stars, tourism boards and hotel owners can buy the possibility.

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因此,尽管餐厅本身依然无法买到米其林星星,但旅游委员会和酒店拥有者可以买到获得星星的可能性x_YU^ER]]I

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In 2010, after the guides had been losing money for years, the parent company hired the consulting giant Accenture to assess their future.

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2010年,在指南亏损多年后,母公司聘请了咨询巨头埃森哲来评估指南的前景,jJz1Q1R]#b|X%

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Soon, the Michelin Guide began to transform itself from an elite, arms-length critic of the restaurant industry to a financial partner.

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很快,《米其林指南》开始从精英的、铁面无私的餐饮业评论者转变为金融合作伙伴hu4hvBa0b=N@*E

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Michelin began accepting money from sponsors like food brands, liquor distributors, hotel chains and tourism agencies.

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米其林开始接受食品品牌、酒类分销商、连锁酒店和旅行社等赞助商的赞助nDK&_LD_iuVtr

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Michelin guides in Thailand, South Korea, Hong Kong and Singapore were all published with financial backing from local tourism authorities.

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泰国、韩国、中国香港和新加坡的米其林指南都是在当地旅游部门的财政支持下出版的eYQJ@(-j,4v-Qd

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The director of the Colorado Tourism Office, Tim Wolfe, led the effort to bring Michelin to his state.

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科罗拉多州旅游局局长蒂姆·沃尔夫带头将米其林带到了科罗拉多州bF5P7]IRuA[Zcj7My^

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Among Colorado’s tourism boards and even its state restaurant association, the notion of restaurants — rather than ski slopes or rock faces — as travel destinations is rather new.

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对于科罗拉多州的旅游委员会和州餐饮协会而言,将餐馆--而不是滑雪道或岩壁--作为旅游目的地是相当新奇的概念;N8]*6=j1Mw!

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But, he said, he knew that international visitors to Colorado spend five times more than domestic ones, so it was an easy call.

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但是,沃尔夫说,他知道来科罗拉多州的国际游客的消费额是国内游客的五倍,所以让米其林来到科罗拉多州是一个不难做出的决定_&t,Y]P9sF(FZ-8d~r

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To get the guide, his agency agreed to contribute $100,000 a year for three years.

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为了得到米其林指南,旅游局同意每年捐赠10万美元,为期三年uy4iE.BEL(m

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Following suit were four tourism boards and two resort companies; they told The New York Times that they each paid Michelin $70,000 to $100,000.

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效仿这一做法的是四个旅游局和两家度假村公司,他们向《纽约时报》称各自向米其林支付了7万至10万美元~0SY*Ju|])%wP

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The chef Brother Luck, the owner of three restaurants in Colorado Springs and a former “Top Chef” contestant, was appalled to see his city passed over.

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主厨拉克兄弟在科罗拉多斯普林斯拥有三家餐厅,曾参加过《顶级厨师》比赛,当他看到自己所在的城市未入选时,他感到非常震惊D#F%-[j,9Y;JjJxF(d

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“How do you leave out the second-largest city in the state?” he said. “It feels like a slap in the face.”

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“怎么能把这个州第二大城市排除在外呢?”他说G_C6my|cjt!,*LES。“这感觉就像是被打了一记耳光u]EDQC3)2Av)O1v。”

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In Florida, which received its first round of Michelin stars in 2022, a similar situation played out.

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佛罗里达州在2022年首次入选米其林星级评选,在这里也出现了类似的情况CB#]y|a!Y0OpNm^

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That state’s guide was funded with more than $1.5 million from state and city tourism budgets, according to an investigation by The Miami Herald.

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根据《迈阿密先驱报》的一项调查,该州编订指南的资金来自州和市的旅游预算,数额超过150万美元eqB^@EU#-6TJ657IG)z-

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As a result, only restaurants in the Miami, Tampa and Orlando areas were eligible for stars.

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因此,只有迈阿密、坦帕和奥兰多的餐厅才有资格参加星级评选KVKUq)oNVm@2YN%ioNd

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“I’m beyond disappointed — after the years I’ve put in carrying the torch for South Florida,” said Timon Balloo, a chef who cooked in and around Miami for 35 years, creating the successful national chain Sugarcane Bar & Grill and Downtown Miami’s popular Balloo before the pandemic forced him to move to Fort Lauderdale.

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“我失望至极--多年来我一直在南佛罗里达州传扬美食mWzr@;*Sx@E;E。”主厨丁蒙·巴洛说S%=|yQihS|。他在迈阿密及其周边地区烹饪了35年,创立了全国知名连锁店甘蔗酒吧和烧烤以及迈阿密市中心颇受欢迎的巴洛餐厅,后来疫情迫使他搬到劳德代尔堡Cf97sCs5]U*(IFlq.j

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He said that if he had known the move would make him ineligible for Michelin consideration, he would have fought harder to keep his footing in Miami.

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他说,如果他知道搬离迈阿密会让他失去米其林入选资格,他会更努力地争取在迈阿密站稳脚跟6]P1*5Q7lo47~if&KR

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