米其林星级评选将让餐饮界付出代价(上)
日期:2023-09-13 11:40

(单词翻译:单击)

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When the chef Caroline Glover heard in June that Michelin would be publishing a restaurant guide to Colorado, she was thrilled at first.

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今年6月,当主厨卡罗琳·格洛弗听说米其林将出版科罗拉多州的餐厅指南时,她一开始感到非常兴奋z0kF~0seneALFK

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“I’ve seen Michelin move across the country, but never thought Colorado would be next,” said Ms. Glover, who co-owns the restaurant Annette, in Aurora.

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“我知道米其林在全国各地评选餐厅,但我从没想过科罗拉多州会是下一个入选地nW@vm#3PK)(。”格洛弗说,她在科罗拉多州的奥罗拉与人合伙开了一家名叫安妮特的餐厅*E2h+aCz]L

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One of the state’s culinary leaders, she was named best chef in the Mountain region last year by the James Beard Foundation.

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作为该州的一流厨师之一,去年她被詹姆斯·比尔德基金会评为山区最佳厨师6(|GzB7JZ#rb7bdWV3

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Her restaurant is a fixture on best-of-Denver lists.

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她的餐厅常年入选丹佛最佳餐厅排行榜Y)5Z8,[Jy!ag*,ct

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Colorado’s stars will be revealed on September 12th at a gala event in Denver, and speculation has been frenzied.

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科罗拉多州的米其林星级评选结果将于9月12日在丹佛的一场庆典中揭晓,人们也对结果进行了热烈的猜测OA;ukpFrAS4cUN

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But one thing is certain: No Michelin inspector has inspected Ms. Glover’s restaurant, and she will not be getting any stars.

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但有一件事是肯定的:没有任何米其林测评员去过格洛弗的餐厅,她也不会得到任何米其林星星KSQRQGg5orlbqxFY3|W

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That’s because Annette is about 500 feet past the city limit that divides Denver and Aurora.

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这是因为安妮特餐厅的位置超出了丹佛和奥罗拉之间的界限约500英尺h3_IDKMPlfG&(c

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And while the Denver tourism board paid Michelin to be included, its counterpart in Aurora did not.

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丹佛旅游局付钱给米其林让丹佛加入评选范围,而奥罗拉旅游局并没有这样做FTUK,3^asjQ8lM#

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The Michelin Guide, owned by the French tire manufacturer, is the world’s most widely recognized authority on fine dining.

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法国轮胎制造商米其林旗下的《米其林指南》是全球认可度最高的高级餐饮权威#^Kspb--waBi,OWDn

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Its stars have fueled the dreams of generations of chefs, and are always the first thing mentioned about restaurants that have them.

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米其林星星激励了一代又一代厨师的梦想,也是人们谈论起获得星星的餐厅时首先会提到的东西4mz)x@94)uPT3z

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In recent years, with competition from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and other awards, the company has been aggressively seeking new ways to generate revenue, expand its geographic reach and modernize the idea of what makes a Michelin restaurant.

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近年来,面对来自“世界50家最佳餐厅榜单”等其他奖项的竞争,米其林一直在积极寻找新的方式来创造营收、扩大其地理覆盖范围,并使米其林餐厅的理念更加现代化N!%YWZb&gu^%7o9

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In interviews, dozens of restaurateurs, chefs and officials across the country said the status the stars confer is priceless, and comes with vast earning potential.

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在采访中,全国各地的数十名餐厅老板、主厨和官员表示,米其林星星赋予餐厅的地位是无价的,由此也带来巨大的盈利潜力su-h!Wq^MUAmX[!

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But they also voiced reservations about Michelin’s priorities and influence.

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但他们也对米其林看重的因素和影响持保留态度RM6urhgHL2sSq

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Curiosity has always swirled around how the company does its work:

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人们一直对该公司的评选方式感到好奇:

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Who are the inspectors? How often do they visit? What does it take to rise from two stars to three?

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测评员是谁?他们多久来一次餐厅?从两颗星升到三颗星需要满足什么条件?

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Now, more sweeping questions are arising about what the guides mean in today’s culinary world.

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现在,关于米其林指南在当今烹饪界有何意义的一些更宏观的问题也出现了cS^8[N%gyw])SO

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Does the quest for stars generate excellence, or sameness?

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对星星的追求带来的是卓越,还是千篇一律?

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Do deals with the tourism industry and food brands suggest that Michelin’s attention and the prestige it confers are at least partly for sale?

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米其林与旅游业和餐饮品牌的交易是否表明,米其林给予餐厅的关注和它为餐厅带来的声誉至少有一部分是可以花钱买到的?

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And can the stars keep their luster as Michelin selectively expands its universe?

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而且当米其林有选择地扩展其评选范围时,米其林星星还能保持它们的光泽吗?

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Gwendal Poullenec, the director of the guides, said in an interview that although the company accepts “partnership” money to offset the expenses of the review process, the decision about whether a region merits its own Michelin guide is determined solely by the company’s inspectors, who “assess the maturity” of the culinary scene as a preliminary step.

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指南的负责人格温达尔·普勒内克在接受采访时说,虽然公司接受“合作”资金来抵消评选过程中的费用,但关于一个地区是否值得拥有自己的米其林指南,这完全由公司的测评员决定,他们会评估该地区餐饮界的“成熟度”,这是测评的初步阶段A=x42!ui;_%.kCpVP,

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Mr. Poullenec said that “vibrancy” and “dynamic potential” are also taken into consideration, as an explanation of why rapidly growing Florida and Colorado — and Atlanta, coming next year — have guides, while New Orleans and New England do not.

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普勒内克称,“活力”和“动态潜力”也被考虑在内,这也是为什么快速发展的佛罗里达州和科罗拉多州--以及明年即将入选的亚特兰大--都有指南,而新奥尔良和新英格兰则没有W)aG7I+;xMLd4HK

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A Michelin announcement about its Colorado guide last month declared, “Our anonymous Inspectors combed the Centennial State for the most delicious spots,” but in fact, only restaurants in Denver, Boulder, Aspen, Vail, Snowmass and Beaver Creek were being considered.

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上个月发布的关于科罗拉多州指南的声明称,“我们的匿名测评员仔细搜索了这个百年之州,为了找出最佳的美食地点”,但事实上,只有丹佛、博尔德、阿斯彭、维尔、斯诺马斯和比弗克里克的餐厅被考虑在内IsB!quLpP4

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