《权利的游戏》如何用服装表达权力?(1)
日期:2019-05-23 06:32

(单词翻译:单击)

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Sansa Stark And Cersei Lannister: Two of Game of Thrones quintessential enemies.
珊莎·史塔克和瑟曦·兰尼斯特:《权力的游戏》中的两大死敌bzjg@w.yX3ofC4Scro
Despite being on opposing sides of Westeros, they have one thing in common: their clothing.
尽管两人分属维斯特洛大陆的两个阵营,但她们有一个共同之处:服装8*Z6]suK|.9Ya
In the final season of the show, days before the Battle of Winterfell,
该剧的最后一季,临冬城之战的前几天,
both wear high braced necklines, draped chains,— sculptural shoulders that evoke armor,
两人都穿了高领,都戴了锁链饰品,两人的服装也都有雕塑般让人联想起盔甲的肩部设计,
even stud work along a central ridge detail.
两人衣襟高出的中线边沿甚至都有饰钉;rqtqZ7s4l%7-;y
Their costumes are as connected as their plotlines for most of the show.
本剧中两人的故事线大部分时间都是紧密相连的,两人着装也一样rF77K,z=Jw-R
And while some of the details can get lost in the show’s dark motif,
虽然该剧的暗调会掩盖掉一些细节,
if you look closely, you’ll see how much their parallel outfits mirror their struggles for power and identity.
但仔细观察的话,你会发现,两人并行的着装风格在很大程度上都反映了她们争夺权力和身份的历程5f9vGBWlI5o
"And your dress. Did you make it?"
“你的裙子)uY*#;eo5l)3V%L9Yj。你自己做的吗?”
"Such talent. You must make something for me."
“手真巧#yrf-@_fr|Eb。以后一定得给我也做些([TS*(|]a&-^QG+vZcf。”
Take a look at Cersei’s outfit here at King’s Landing in Season 1.
看看第一季里瑟曦在君临时的着装吧Dv0mnoNk@Y7
Michelle Clapton — the show’s Emmy award-winning costume designer —
米歇尔·克莱普顿——该剧聘请的荣获了艾美奖的服装设计师——
dressed Cersei in a lot of lightweight, pastel dresses in the first two seasons - pinks, pale purple, turquoise.
在前两季中给瑟曦设计了很多轻薄淡雅的裙装——粉色、淡紫色、青绿色P~qCPmuZ9pLZ^FbLR
Within the story, these dresses suggested a feminine queen in understated luxury.
这些衣服在剧中暗示了当时的瑟曦是一位穿着低调而奢华,充满了女性气质的王后~bV)x.d2j|~qO
But to the audience, they often signaled moments she seemed powerless.
但对观众来说,这些裙装往往象征的是她看似无权无势的时候7-(WhjCqI46uJh
"Now the entire North has risen up against us."
“现在整个北方都起来反对我们了hHWsjL~iZ@BWI!q-(l@L。”
"I tried to stop it."
“我试过阻止34#K8)=Q7](OOg*。”
"Did you? You failed."
“是吗?可你失败了;7-ZIRop;iej。”
Cersei’s pastels play against her Lannister red dresses to contrast her moments of power...
给她设计这些淡雅的裙装和代表兰尼斯特家族的红裙子,为的是让她大权在握的时刻……
"Seize him. Cut his throat. Wait. I've changed my mind, let him go."
“抓住他ZX4#HO[wJH。割开他的喉咙Bv96M|lJ3gpK*O[。等等&65(%!]OoGEV62fHxoN。我改变主意了,让他走吧k(Jn6((_CZXp%@dPK6j)。”
with the colors she wore in her moments of helplessness,
和她绝望无助的时刻所穿的颜色,
like this turquoise dress she wears while watching her daughter Myrcella being sent away to Dorne.
比如她看着女儿弥赛拉被送去多恩时穿的这件绿松石色的裙子形成鲜明的对比XLRZ!ec7@cqQVOWJ
Around the same time, Sansa was a hostage of the crown, at the mercy of the Lannisters
在那段时间前后,珊莎成了国王手上的人质,成了任由兰尼斯特家摆布的玩偶,
— wearing dresses that mirrored her captor Cersei.
而珊莎这时的穿着和扣押她的瑟曦这一时期的穿着是相互映照的O3hsr3bFRWK[McO

3

The oversized, pastel hand-me-downs do the same thing for her that they did for Cersei — reflect her lack of power.
被别人穿过,既宽大又淡雅的衣服在她身上产生了和在瑟曦身上一样的效果——反映了她的无权无势#t=,G2~Ssxt
"Your grace, whatever my traitor brother has done I had no part, you know that. I beg you, please!"
“陛下,无论我那叛徒哥哥做了什么,都跟我没有任何关系,你是知道的0+AY=S7mUi@r-siGE&Uo。求您放过我吧,求您了!”
They’re both at sea, drowning in light-colored fabric, and unable to change their circumstances.
她们似乎都被淹没在了浅色的裙衫里,都无法改变各自的处境,都是那么的茫然无措QmWS4v1AY;KR
The Battle of Blackwater changed all of that.
然而,黑水河之役扭转了一切oN7v[~NS8I2p6G
Before the battle, Cersei was dressed in the most Lannister outfit she could find:
黑水河之役前夕,瑟曦穿的是她所有衣服中最具兰尼斯特特色的衣服:
a red dress with Lannister lions, and an ornamental breastplate with, you guessed it, Lannister lions.
一条绣着象征兰尼斯特家族的狮子的红裙子,搭配了一件装饰性的胸甲,胸甲上纹的,你猜对了,也是象征兰尼斯特家族的狮子~%sw865aA6K
It didn’t end up being very effective for morale...
她的这一着装并没能很好地提升士气……
"The battle is lost, your grace."
“陛下,我们输了4a&ByAH%qny。”
but it was a show of house power.
却依然表现了兰尼斯特家族的势力v|1V3G*@qgfxljHVp9[s
And Sansa’s costuming followed suit.
珊莎这时的装束依旧追随了瑟曦W#SdqCDO[C.*
In the wake of the battle, Sansa donned her own version of a house color: purple.
战斗结束后,珊莎也穿上了她给自己设计的家族标志色:紫色V).IRpZ&X17lVvu
It wasn’t Stark blue, but it gave her more identity than her pastel hostage hand-me-downs
虽然不是斯塔克家族标志性的蓝色,但还是比之前做人质时穿的那些淡雅的旧货给了她更明确的身份YNoHlB(Y=DOxCC[d
— without rocking the boat too much around the red Lannisters.
同时也不至于在红色兰尼斯特家族周围招惹麻烦)W.fB&+C+fdpJ
It’s an early example of a character dressing in “survival camouflage,” to blend in with those who pose a threat.
这算是一个早期的例子,显示了角色如何通过“保护色”融入对他们构成威胁的人中间4d5LyFAdA+!(vkYJLO
But Sansa’s costuming also shows how she’s begun to assert herself —
但珊莎的着装也显示出她已经开始坚持自己的立场了——
this Stark scarf under her gowns is a subtle nod to home.
她在长袍下搭的这条象征斯塔克家族的围巾就是对家族的微妙致意L%YxXgq_uPCaT
Cersei’s season 3 clothes doubled down on Lannisterism, as she assumed the role of Queen Mother:
瑟曦在第三季里扮演太后这一角色时的服装进一步强调了兰尼斯特家族这一元素:
red everywhere, increasingly ornate fabrics, and lion sigil armor and jewelry.
随时随地穿的都是红色,越来越华丽的面料,还有狮徽盔甲及珠宝ek5TUhaN...jYJ^s
“You’re a clever man, but not half as clever as you think you are.”
“你是个聪明人,但远没你自己以为的那么聪明wcK#[!a#c~lmA]AU=av。”
And later in the season, Sansa’s costuming echoed this shift at her wedding to Tyrion Lannister.
在这一季的后半部分,珊莎在嫁给提利昂·兰尼斯特时的着装也呼应了这一转变l.ck.w,Ihrv
“You may now cloak the bride and bring her under your protection.”
“请给新娘披上斗篷,象征永久的守护D|xuXId[pydZpOAl。”
Her gown was Sansa purple, but with armored panniers — a distinctly Cersei touch.
她这时穿的长袍依然是珊莎紫,但搭配了镶有铠甲的裙撑——而这明显是瑟曦的风格&y1^Ll%;jtfLY@5Ugy
And the show’s embroiderer, Michelle Carragher, included some tricky embellishments,
该剧的刺绣师米歇尔·卡拉格还融入了一些非常巧妙的装饰,
featuring lions overcoming Stark wolves.
象征兰尼斯特狮子战胜了史塔克狼ZMp51C#q7kM&71
The embroidered scene mimicked the way Cersei’ Lannister lion signaled authority —
刺绣绣的场景既与瑟曦的兰尼斯特狮子透露着权威的事实相辉映——
— but made sure there was something Stark on Sansa’s dress, too.
同时也确保了珊莎的衣服上有象征史塔克家族的元素]M8WKr7Z_%I;FYw-D,j
Their dueling sigils show how much Sansa had already learned from Cersei about using clothing to signal alliances,
两个互相较劲的徽章也显示出了珊莎已经从瑟曦那里学到了很多用衣服来表示结盟的技巧.Vsq@M_OS+BKFJm
an especially important skill moving forward.
而这一技巧在后面的剧集中将显得愈发重要]t^%dt!T9e

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重点单词
  • reflectv. 反映,反射,归咎
  • ornateadj. 装饰的,华丽的
  • turquoisen. 绿松石,土耳其玉,蓝绿色 adj. 蓝绿色的
  • luxuryn. 奢侈,豪华,奢侈品
  • effectiveadj. 有效的,有影响的
  • identityn. 身份,一致,特征
  • threatn. 威胁,凶兆 vt. 威胁, 恐吓
  • assertvt. 主张,声明,断言
  • scarfn. 围巾
  • subtleadj. 微妙的,敏感的,精细的,狡诈的,不明显的